What fly line #?

Hi all,

I have a Hardy Sirrus #5 fly rod, and I was wondering what fly line I should
get.

Currently using a Scientific Angler Ultra3 WF5 F line but I find it
difficult to cast.

An angler tells me that it is better to use a #6 line on a #5 rod, the bloke
in the shop said I should get a #5 line.

I am not sure what line to get and I do not want to end up buying half a
dozen lines to find the right one, so I thought I will ask the experts on
here for some advice.

Thanks.

In article , Smudge
wrote:
Hi all,

I have a Hardy Sirrus #5 fly rod, and I was wondering what fly line I should
get.

What sort of waters are you fishing and how far are you casting?

Currently using a Scientific Angler Ultra3 WF5 F line but I find it
difficult to cast.

An angler tells me that it is better to use a #6 line on a #5 rod, the bloke
in the shop said I should get a #5 line.

There are circs where you might go as far as a #7 - #8 or down to a #4.

The correct answer is to work out how much line you need to cast, find out
what weight of line the rod really wants (by false casting a length of
too-heavy level line until you find the point at which the rod is working
'right' and then measuring and calculating) and then buy a line to meet the
spec.

I am not sure what line to get and I do not want to end up buying half a
dozen lines to find the right one, so I thought I will ask the experts on
here for some advice.

The second best option is to borrow (for five mins at a time) all the spare
reels carried by other anglers and test cast until you find a line that
suits. You have to give it back I'm afraid but you can then ask for weight,
type and manufacturer.

Cheerio,

--

Hi Derek,

"Derek.Moody" wrote in message
...
In article , Smudge
wrote:
Hi all,

I have a Hardy Sirrus #5 fly rod, and I was wondering what fly line I
should
get.

What sort of waters are you fishing and how far are you casting?

Still waters, casting up to 20 or 30 ft.



Currently using a Scientific Angler Ultra3 WF5 F line but I find it
difficult to cast.

An angler tells me that it is better to use a #6 line on a #5 rod, the
bloke
in the shop said I should get a #5 line.

There are circs where you might go as far as a #7 - #8 or down to a #4.

Wouldn't using a high # line risk breaking the rod?



The correct answer is to work out how much line you need to cast, find out
what weight of line the rod really wants (by false casting a length of
too-heavy level line until you find the point at which the rod is working
'right' and then measuring and calculating) and then buy a line to meet
the
spec.

How is this calculation done, and is it accurate, come to think of it, how
do the rod makers test the rods for line weight.




I am not sure what line to get and I do not want to end up buying half a
dozen lines to find the right one, so I thought I will ask the experts
on
here for some advice.

The second best option is to borrow (for five mins at a time) all the
spare
reels carried by other anglers and test cast until you find a line that
suits. You have to give it back I'm afraid but you can then ask for
weight,
type and manufacturer.


It would be nice if shops had a selection of all their lines ready for test
casting to see which brand and # suits the buyer.





Cheerio,

--

In article , Smudge
wrote:
Hi Derek,

"Derek.Moody" wrote in message
...
In article , Smudge
wrote:
Hi all,

I have a Hardy Sirrus #5 fly rod, and I was wondering what fly line I

Still waters, casting up to 20 or 30 ft.

OK, so nothing very critical, presentation before distance.

where you might go as far as a #7 - #8 or down to a #4.

Wouldn't using a high # line risk breaking the rod?

Casting a *weight* of line too great for the rod will do damage but at short
range you're only casting half a line - so the rod works best with a heavier
line. If you are aerialising a particularly long length when false casting
you may need to go down a size or (better if delicacy is not vital), switch
to a shooting head.

The correct answer is to work out how much line you need to cast, find out
what weight of line the rod really wants (by false casting a length of
too-heavy level line until you find the point at which the rod is working
'right' and then measuring and calculating) and then buy a line to meet
the
spec.

How is this calculation done, and is it accurate, come to think of it, how

Take a level line and weigh it. Say you have 20 metres and it weighs
40grams (this is roughly a #11, arbitrary value chosen for simplicity of
calculation) or 2 grams per metre.

Carefully false cast extending a little more each time until the rod is
working as you want - in other words until it feel 'right', if you are a
beginner you might get someone else to check this. *DO NOT TRY TO CAST THE
WHOLE LINE* or you will stress the rod.

Measure the length of line outside the rod tip. For ease of calculation we
will assume it measures 4.5 metres. So the rod casts 9 grams. Look up 9
grams on an AFTM scale and you find it equals a #5 line (the weight of the
first 10m of a #5 is 9gm by definition)

BUT

You are fishing at 20 - 30 feet (7 - 10M) By the time you take off 2m for
the length of the rod and 2m for the taper and leader you have only 3 - 6m
of line outside the rod and you will be shooting some of this. Let's say
you never false cast more than 4m of actual fly line.

The *ideal* line for your specific requirement, one that weighs 9gm in the
first 4m or about 2.25 gm/m is a weight forward #12. Of course if you cast
any more line with it you risk the rod.

In practice the better bet would be to buy a cheap mill end #7 or #8 and
cut it off at the 9gm mark so that it gives you help with the short casts
but can be used as a shooting head without straining the rod if you ever
need to throw farther.

do the rod makers test the rods for line weight.

The manufacturers test a typical example with a full line and then (I think
some subtract one to leave a margin for abuse) mark the whole production run
with the same number.

It would be nice if shops had a selection of all their lines ready for test
casting to see which brand and # suits the buyer.

Some do. Often angling booths at game_fairs/agricultural_shows have such a
facility with an attendant instructor.

Cheerio,

--

"Derek.Moody" wrote in message
...
In article , Smudge
wrote:
Hi Derek,
Wouldn't using a high # line risk breaking the rod?

Casting a *weight* of line too great for the rod will do damage but at
short
range you're only casting half a line - so the rod works best with a
heavier
line. If you are aerialising a particularly long length when false
casting
you may need to go down a size or (better if delicacy is not vital),
switch
to a shooting head.

The correct answer is to work out how much line you need to cast, find
out
what weight of line the rod really wants (by false casting a length of
too-heavy level line until you find the point at which the rod is
working
'right' and then measuring and calculating) and then buy a line to
meet
the
spec.

How is this calculation done, and is it accurate, come to think of it,
how

Take a level line and weigh it. Say you have 20 metres and it weighs
40grams (this is roughly a #11, arbitrary value chosen for simplicity of
calculation) or 2 grams per metre.

Carefully false cast extending a little more each time until the rod is
working as you want - in other words until it feel 'right', if you are a
beginner you might get someone else to check this. *DO NOT TRY TO CAST THE
WHOLE LINE* or you will stress the rod.

Measure the length of line outside the rod tip. For ease of calculation
we
will assume it measures 4.5 metres. So the rod casts 9 grams. Look up 9
grams on an AFTM scale and you find it equals a #5 line (the weight of the
first 10m of a #5 is 9gm by definition)

BUT

You are fishing at 20 - 30 feet (7 - 10M) By the time you take off 2m for
the length of the rod and 2m for the taper and leader you have only 3 - 6m
of line outside the rod and you will be shooting some of this. Let's say
you never false cast more than 4m of actual fly line.

The *ideal* line for your specific requirement, one that weighs 9gm in the
first 4m or about 2.25 gm/m is a weight forward #12. Of course if you
cast
any more line with it you risk the rod.

In practice the better bet would be to buy a cheap mill end #7 or #8 and
cut it off at the 9gm mark so that it gives you help with the short casts
but can be used as a shooting head without straining the rod if you ever
need to throw farther.

do the rod makers test the rods for line weight.

The manufacturers test a typical example with a full line and then (I
think
some subtract one to leave a margin for abuse) mark the whole production
run
with the same number.

It would be nice if shops had a selection of all their lines ready for
test
casting to see which brand and # suits the buyer.

Some do. Often angling booths at game_fairs/agricultural_shows have such
a
facility with an attendant instructor.


Thanks for your help Derek, although I have fly fished on and off over the
years, I never paid much attention to detail, so I am fairly new to the
technical side and find this information very useful, I got a few fly reels
with lines off of ebay, 5s 6s 7s and one 8 or 9 line, so I am ready to go.

Going by my past experiences, using any old rod and line, and half killing
myself trying to cast, I have come round to thinking that the key to fly
fishing must be to use the right gear, properly matched lines and rods are
critical, then again, I could just be useless at casting a fly, time will
tell.

On my last trout fishing fiasco, some old boy, about 80 yrs old, was casting
further than I was, so it must be down to the gear to some extent, some
joker told me he could cast further with a broom handle. LOL.

Cheers Derek.

PS

In article , Smudge
wrote:

Thanks for your help Derek, although I have fly fished on and off over the
years, I never paid much attention to detail, so I am fairly new to the
technical side and find this information very useful, I got a few fly reels
with lines off of ebay, 5s 6s 7s and one 8 or 9 line, so I am ready to go.

OK, just do the slowly lengthening line thing with a couple of these and
then cut them at the rod tip. Attach floating backing and you have instant,
tailored shooting heads.

Going by my past experiences, using any old rod and line, and half killing
myself trying to cast, I have come round to thinking that the key to fly
fishing must be to use the right gear, properly matched lines and rods are
critical, then again, I could just be useless at casting a fly, time will
tell.

Critical, no. A terrific help, yes.

The cheapest next step might be a casting lesson. Ask the instructor to
bring along a couple of properly balanced outfits so you can learn the feel.

On my last trout fishing fiasco, some old boy, about 80 yrs old, was casting
further than I was, so it must be down to the gear to some extent, some
joker told me he could cast further with a broom handle. LOL.

Maybe. Distance is only part of it. Accuracy and delicacy are often much
more important.

Cheerio,

--

If you listen to all the suggestions given in answer to your alleged problem
you will be thoroughly confused and no nearer to overcoming your problem.
The Hardy Sirrus is a first class rod and the SA Ultra is a first class line
and matched in size will perform perfectly in virtually all conditions.
If you have difficulty in casting this rod and line combination I suggest
you get professional help to improve your technique.
Good fishing
Gordon.
"Smudge" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have a Hardy Sirrus #5 fly rod, and I was wondering what fly line I
should
get.

Currently using a Scientific Angler Ultra3 WF5 F line but I find it
difficult to cast.

An angler tells me that it is better to use a #6 line on a #5 rod, the
bloke
in the shop said I should get a #5 line.

I am not sure what line to get and I do not want to end up buying half a
dozen lines to find the right one, so I thought I will ask the experts on
here for some advice.

Thanks.