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#11
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![]() Bass boat? Ted, I just remembered that he told me he was working some over at Aim Marine...one of his sponsors. You might try him there. JK Group: rec.outdoors.fishing.bass Date: Fri, Jan 5, 2007, 12:28pm From: (John*Kerr) Bass boat? (SHRED) Thanks John. OBTW: I finally met your son over at Henry's one day. Of course we talk about bass fishing. I will try to reach him tomorrow. I want to tell him what I am looking for in a boat so he can keep an eye out also. If you would could you send him my email, or if it's okay with him then give me his at ted_shred at cox dot net. Thanks Ted aka: SHRED ======= Ted, I sent him your e-mail address. I don't think he spends much time on the computer, so if you get a chance to stop by the store, that might be quicker ![]() JK |
#12
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John Kerr wrote:
Bass boat? Ted, I just remembered that he told me he was working some over at Aim Marine...one of his sponsors. You might try him there. JK Thanks John! |
#13
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On Wed, 03 Jan 2007 18:43:12 -0800, SHRED wrote:
Okay, I am going to get a boat and I have few questions. Here in San Diego County our lakes are small and the G3 165 or 175 with a 60 hp Yamaha is what I have kinda narrowed it down to. http://www.g3boats.com/EagleSeries/Eagle_165/ My old Toyota truck could pull it around here. What are the differences between these welded aluminum hulls and a fiberglass hull. Isn't the aluminum lighter? Is there a 16 foot fiberglass that is in these price ranges and the G3? I heard that Nitro has one? What is the advantage or disadvantage of each material type? I am looking for a 16 to 17 foot with a 60hp 4 stroke Yamaha that can be 2 to 4 years old in the 7-9 thousand dollar range. Am I being realistic? Thanks for any suggestions. Can't comment on current pricing, but it looks like the guys in the know have already done that anyway. I can chime in as a very satisfied 2003 Pro 175 (what they called them back then) owner. Mine has a 2 stroke 60 HP on it. As for weight, hard to say really. They're (G3 aluminums) braced up pretty good inside, and nothing is "molded in", it's either added weight or it isn't on the boat. Since glass boats can have molded features, the weight of similar sized glass boats are likely similar. The boat has quite a few hours on it now and is still hanging tough. I don't feel shy about going into a shallow place with it as I have bumped a few stumps and rip-rap rocks with it and it's held up well IMO. I just wouldn't recommend doing that at high speed, of course. I have seen no indication of any problems with any of the weld seams on the boat, and she's been dry since day 1. If there's water in the bottom at the end of the day, it came in over the bow due to chop while running across the water at speed. I find the carpeting to be aging much better than I expected too. I haven't had top replace a single thing on mine except the batteries. I'm notoriously bad on batteries, so no biggie there. I went to an AGM starting batt last year as well as the big 29 series yellow Wal Mart special deep cycles for the 12v troller. My only gripes with the G3 175 class hull: No real thought was put into leaving enough "space" to put an onboard battery charger or 2nd troller battery. I mounted my charger to the underside of the lid over the batt compartment, and simply flop it all the way open to use - the fuel tank is right there too and leaving it closed to charge seems awfully dangerous to me. I gerry-rigged a 2nd troller battery into a second "step up" box that I built right in front of the passenger's foot well (And wired a hidden Perko selector under the helm). There's simply no where else along the centerline to mount one, and with this boat's relatively narrow beam, trust me, you want it near or on the centerline. Recommendations for comfort: If you're 6'2"+ in height like I am, I recommend getting the "S" shaped pedestal seat poles to use if you like to sit to fish. My legs are long enough that mine overshoot the front deck and rest on the front gunwales on a "straight" pole like comes stock with the boat. That extra 1' of room an "S" pole gives you is worth their purchase price on these narrow boats. I also added some latch springs to the 2 front storage hatches. Highly recommended if you fish on water that isn't glass smooth. I guess you could install gas pistons, but the springs work and are cheaper to buy and replace should you munge one up. I wish you Good Luck in finding one as I think you would enjoy this boat. |
#14
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SimRacer wrote:
On Wed, 03 Jan 2007 18:43:12 -0800, SHRED wrote: Okay, I am going to get a boat and I have few questions. Here in San Diego County our lakes are small and the G3 165 or 175 with a 60 hp Yamaha is what I have kinda narrowed it down to. http://www.g3boats.com/EagleSeries/Eagle_165/ My old Toyota truck could pull it around here. What are the differences between these welded aluminum hulls and a fiberglass hull. Isn't the aluminum lighter? Is there a 16 foot fiberglass that is in these price ranges and the G3? I heard that Nitro has one? What is the advantage or disadvantage of each material type? I am looking for a 16 to 17 foot with a 60hp 4 stroke Yamaha that can be 2 to 4 years old in the 7-9 thousand dollar range. Am I being realistic? Thanks for any suggestions. Can't comment on current pricing, but it looks like the guys in the know have already done that anyway. I can chime in as a very satisfied 2003 Pro 175 (what they called them back then) owner. Mine has a 2 stroke 60 HP on it. As for weight, hard to say really. They're (G3 aluminums) braced up pretty good inside, and nothing is "molded in", it's either added weight or it isn't on the boat. Since glass boats can have molded features, the weight of similar sized glass boats are likely similar. The boat has quite a few hours on it now and is still hanging tough. I don't feel shy about going into a shallow place with it as I have bumped a few stumps and rip-rap rocks with it and it's held up well IMO. I just wouldn't recommend doing that at high speed, of course. I have seen no indication of any problems with any of the weld seams on the boat, and she's been dry since day 1. If there's water in the bottom at the end of the day, it came in over the bow due to chop while running across the water at speed. I find the carpeting to be aging much better than I expected too. I haven't had top replace a single thing on mine except the batteries. I'm notoriously bad on batteries, so no biggie there. I went to an AGM starting batt last year as well as the big 29 series yellow Wal Mart special deep cycles for the 12v troller. My only gripes with the G3 175 class hull: No real thought was put into leaving enough "space" to put an onboard battery charger or 2nd troller battery. I mounted my charger to the underside of the lid over the batt compartment, and simply flop it all the way open to use - the fuel tank is right there too and leaving it closed to charge seems awfully dangerous to me. I gerry-rigged a 2nd troller battery into a second "step up" box that I built right in front of the passenger's foot well (And wired a hidden Perko selector under the helm). There's simply no where else along the centerline to mount one, and with this boat's relatively narrow beam, trust me, you want it near or on the centerline. Recommendations for comfort: If you're 6'2"+ in height like I am, I recommend getting the "S" shaped pedestal seat poles to use if you like to sit to fish. My legs are long enough that mine overshoot the front deck and rest on the front gunwales on a "straight" pole like comes stock with the boat. That extra 1' of room an "S" pole gives you is worth their purchase price on these narrow boats. I also added some latch springs to the 2 front storage hatches. Highly recommended if you fish on water that isn't glass smooth. I guess you could install gas pistons, but the springs work and are cheaper to buy and replace should you munge one up. I wish you Good Luck in finding one as I think you would enjoy this boat. Thank you very much for your wonderful review. This really helps. Thanks SimRacer!! |
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