Newbie questions -- after my 1st season of fishing

Thanks to all of you who helped me get started fly fishing this
Spring. Now, after my first Spring and Summer of fishing, I'm back
here needing some more advice.

I live in Central Illinois so 90% of my fishing has been for panfish
and bass on ponds and lakes. Mostly small ponds and lakes that I can
wade. I may try canoe fishing next year too, on these same waters. I
do get away for trout fishing once a year on vacation though (next
year I'm going to Taneycomo for a week for Browns and
Rainbows.....this Summer I was in Canada with 3-5 pound Rainbows).

I'm a family-guy on a tight budget, so I started out with a Cabella's
Three Forks 6wt rod with Cortland 444 Classic Peach WF6 Floating
line. I know it's a KPOC, but it was all I could afford. I caught a
ton of fish on it this year though. I took a class and learned to tie
my own flies, and 90% of the flies I fish with are my own (often ugly)
flies size 6-12. I fish mostly nymphs, streamers (weighted or with
bead heads), and terrestrials. While I like catching the pan fish, I
most enjoy catching bass. They are a real thrill on a fly rod. I
don't plan on fishing big size hooks for bass, as I've done fine
around here with #6 hooks for bass, and bigger didn't seem to improve
my catches. Sometimes I was frustrated this year trying to fish on
windy days with my rig, but maybe it was me and not the equipment.

I think Santa is going to bring me a 2nd fly outfit this Christmas.
I'm working hard to be on Santa's "good" list (my wife) and dropping
hints already :-) What would you recommend that I consider for a 2nd
fly rod/reel that is a step up from the KPOC, but still affordable
(something around $300)? I might add here that I'm REALLY satisfied
with the Prestige Plus reel that came with the KPOC -- I've landed
some big bass, and one monster carp without feeling I needed anything
better than the Prestige Plus reel. I would like to put my money in a
nice rod.

Also, what size rod/reel would you think I should go with?

mdk77 wrote:
Thanks to all of you who helped me get started fly fishing this
Spring. Now, after my first Spring and Summer of fishing, I'm back
here needing some more advice.
snip
What would you recommend that I consider for a 2nd
fly rod/reel that is a step up from the KPOC, but still affordable
(something around $300)?

I bought a 6wt Redington CPS for smallmouth fishing and I'm
quite pleased with it. It fits exactly in your price range
at $299 and for the money it's a very nice fly rod.

...
Also, what size rod/reel would you think I should go with?

That depends on what you want to do most. If it's catching
bluegill in the ponds go with a 3wt, bass get another 6wt
or to fight the wind and toss deer hair a 7 or 8wt.

--
Ken Fortenberry

SNIP

You caught a ton of fish, so why try to fix "something that ain´t
broke"?

Wait another year, and improve your knowledge and experience before
you buy anything else. You can increase the performance of a #6
weight rod into the wind very considerably by using a shooting head on
it. For info on shooting heads see here;

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

The right head will allow you to cast a lot further, and also to use
larger flies if you wish.

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

On Aug 12, 1:23 pm, Mike wrote:
SNIP

You caught a ton of fish, so why try to fix "something that ain´t
broke"?

Wait another year, and improve your knowledge and experience before
you buy anything else. You can increase the performance of a #6
weight rod into the wind very considerably by using a shooting head on
it. For info on shooting heads see here;

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

The right head will allow you to cast a lot further, and also to use
larger flies if you wish.

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

Good point. I'm tempted to keep the 6wt that I have for Bass fishing
when I do want to fish larger flies, and then pick up a 5wt, or even a
4wt for panfish and when I fish with smaller flies for Bass.
Sometimes I do wish I had a more subtle way to present flies on the
small, clear ponds, when it is perfectly calm and the fish seem
spooked a bit by the 6wt. I've wondered if a 4 or 5wt would be
better.

Also, if I wanted a heavier line for Bass fishing big flies, is it a
bad decision to load 7wt line on the 6wt that I already have? I'm
just curious.

On Aug 12, 8:50 pm, mdk77 wrote:
On Aug 12, 1:23 pm, Mike wrote:



SNIP

You caught a ton of fish, so why try to fix "something that ain´t
broke"?

Wait another year, and improve your knowledge and experience before
you buy anything else. You can increase the performance of a #6
weight rod into the wind very considerably by using a shooting head on
it. For info on shooting heads see here;

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

The right head will allow you to cast a lot further, and also to use
larger flies if you wish.

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

Good point. I'm tempted to keep the 6wt that I have for Bass fishing
when I do want to fish larger flies, and then pick up a 5wt, or even a
4wt for panfish and when I fish with smaller flies for Bass.
Sometimes I do wish I had a more subtle way to present flies on the
small, clear ponds, when it is perfectly calm and the fish seem
spooked a bit by the 6wt. I've wondered if a 4 or 5wt would be
better.

Also, if I wanted a heavier line for Bass fishing big flies, is it a
bad decision to load 7wt line on the 6wt that I already have? I'm
just curious.

Using a lighter rod and line can be more subtle. But there are
alternatives to using a lighter rod and line.. There are
disadvantages to using lighter rods and lines, the lighter they are,
the less control you have in wind, and you will not be able to cast as
far either. Usually, a #4 weight is about the lower limit for most
things. One must suit the rod and line to the quarry, and in the case
of small panfish, they are probably more fun on a light rod, as long
as you can use it effectively. The lighter the line, the harder it is
to cast.

Subtlety is also very heavily dependent on your casting technique. It
would pay you to try and improve that somewhat, before you invest in
any more gear. One can make very subtle presentations with
comparatively heavy gear, if it is set up right, The leader is very
important here.

It is not necessarily a "bad" decision" to overline a rod like that,
but it depends on what you want to achieve. Overlining will slow the
rod down, and you must adjust your casting to suit, also, when you
have more than a certain amount of line out, you will be at the limits
of the rod´s casting capability, and this is also not easy to do in
any case with a full line.

This also depends on what type of line you are using. If I were you,
I would try a heavier head on the #6 weight for heavier fishing, and
use a #5 line on the rod for your other fishing. This will teach you a
lot, and give you a better idea of what you want.

No amount of even good advice is a substitute for personal knowledge
and experience.

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

One quite simple way of achieving more subtle presentation, is to use
a longer leader, and aim about a foot or so above the water when
casting, so that your line floats down gently, and does not cause any
disturbance.

This requires a little practice, but you can then present even very
heavy lines with considerable subtlety, and more to the point, the
flies.

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

Mike wrote:
SNIP

... You can increase the performance of a #6
weight rod into the wind very considerably by using a shooting head on
it. For info on shooting heads see here;

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

The right head will allow you to cast a lot further, and also to use
larger flies if you wish.

It depends on what you mean by performance. If by performance
you mean casting for distance I could see where a shooting
head system might make sense. But a Central Illinois bass
fisherman hardly ever has to cast for distance, accuracy and
the ability to turn over big wind eating flies is far more
important than distance.

The venerable Cortland Peach 444 is a good all around fly line
but the specialty lines are better for bass fishing. I use the
Scientific Anglers Mastery Series Bass Bug fly line in 6wt and
it is an excellent choice. I've also had an opportunity to cast
the new Cortland Precision Big Fly - Bass and I like it even
better, but it doesn't come in 6wt, just 7, 8, & 9.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Why don´t you read what an expert says before you disagree with
something "on principle". A correctly configured shooting head will
carry and turn over bigger flies than any other "specialty" line in
existence.It will also do a number of other things. It will still do
them, even if you disagree.

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

There are plenty of others as well.

I purposely did not give my take on the matter, but a "neutral" and
quite comprehensive view from a well known expert.

You may of course disagree with anything you like, you invariably do,
but that disagreement seems to have more to do with the source of the
information, than with the facts of the matter.

If you mean this;
http://www.waderson.com/us/store/127...-Fly--6wt.html

it´s just a shooting head with integrated running line, a short front
taper, and a long back taper, which will admittedly help turnover to
some extent, but this depends largely on casting skill with a head
anyway, Turn over usually being accomplished by applying more power,
or using various tricks like "pull back" or feathering.

I don´t like "exciting" or a lot of other nonsensical blurb in
connection with my fishing tackle

QUOTE
are an exciting new line of species specific fly lines designed to
turn over flies perfectly, accurately, every time. The Precision
Tapers also feature Cortland's newest performance enhancer, Duraslik®.
Duraslik is an entirely new formulation that dramatically increases
durability and ensures that these lines will stay slick.

Important new features of the Precision Tapers include (on some
models) the availability of half weight line sizes, two tone for easy
pickup identification and an exciting new taper design called the
Rocket2. Never before has a fly line manufacturer made available fly
lines designated by whole and half weights. Driven by the tremendous
diversity of fly rod actions, fly anglers will now be able to more
precisely match their fly line weight to their rod's action.

A color change has also been included, indicating the maximum load
point for easy pickup. Finally, Cortland, the innovator of the
original Rocket taper, now introduces the Rocket2 taper design - more
weight up front for directional stability, with a long front taper for
delicate, precise presentations backed up by an extra long back taper
for maximum aerialization.
UNQUOTE

What a load of old cobblers!

I am sure the guy will make up his own mind, especially if he tries a
few things.
--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

Looks like they used the line equivalent blurb to this;

http://www.common-cents.info/rodexpertise.pdf

--
Regards and tight lines!

Mike Connor

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/Flycorner?hl=en

Mike wrote:
Why don´t you read what an expert says before you disagree with
something "on principle".

When the subject is fly fishing for bass in central Illinois
I am an expert. And I agree with me. ;-)

snip
If you mean this;
http://www.waderson.com/us/store/127...-Fly--6wt.html

it´s just a shooting head with integrated running line, a short front
taper, and a long back taper, which will admittedly help turnover to
some extent, but this depends largely on casting skill with a head
anyway, Turn over usually being accomplished by applying more power,
or using various tricks like "pull back" or feathering.

That's the fly line I'm talking about. It's far better for casting
in close to the canoe than any shooting head contraption and it's
far more accurate at a distance regardless of "tricks".

--
Ken Fortenberry