OT .. Thanks Forty & Frank ...

"Ken Fortenberry" wrote


Any advice or pointers appreciated.



Consistency is far more important than specific 'method' ... attitude
(trainer's ) is more important than technique

Honestly, I haven't read a book on training in years
but
you asked so here ya go, some thoughts

1) The first step in training is the hardest and the most important. It
is to decide EXACTLY what you want the dog trained to do! Don't laugh,
I've trained hundreds for hundreds of people and none of those people
started with a clear, precise, detailed, idea of what they wanted ( I always
ask ).

Define everything as detailed as you can ... example, if she is to ride in
the canoe ... where?, in what posture?, on what command?, facing what
direction?, is she allowed to move when a fish is flopping near by about to
be landed? what command releases her to get out? before you and other
humans, or after? etc etc ... decide BEFORE the first time she gets in one
( on dry ground so it ain't too scary ;-) and train basics BEFORE that day
too ( say the 'down' command, )

The more detailed a picture of your ideal dog you get in your minds eye the
better off you are .. and for ALL her tasks ... decide NOW what areas of the
house she can access, what furniture she can climb on, and be consistent
from "Day One." ( oh, and those urgent 3AM calls from her will require a
trip outside and be truly urgent ;-)

If you have questions what a 'good hunting dog" should do, try to find a
Hunt Test to go see, you'll get some ideas, but, mainly, decide for yourself
.... each hunter has different needs and desires ( why I hate training gun
dogs and prefer the much more demanding work of trial dogs where, at least,
I'm certain what the goal is in advance )

2) The more steps you can break down getting from where you are... to where
you want to be, ...the better. Much like my RosettaStone,, the steps
should be nearly invisible, ie "seemless" to the student. Simple example
.... she should learn to sit/stay while you walk away 2 feet before you try
4 feet !!

Doh, you say! But assuming a dog understands what it really doesn't is
the single biggest cause of training problems. I've seen guys ( henceforth
referred to as 'morons' ) that couldn't even get Fido to sit stay in the
backyard during minor distractions, erupt in fury when Fido broke to shot
out hunting, thinking the poor beast understood 'stay" ... each tiny step
is a NEW step to a dog ... they do NOT extrapolate well ... remember that
to keep things pleasant ( I wrote part of a book one time, to be
called "A Pleasant Journey" about training ... the title suggests my
philosophy ( although I'm very demanding and use an e-collar ) and training
CAN be very pleasant for both animals involved, 99.8% of the time, if you
keep progress seemless and demands consistent

3) While training, look at your dog constantly at the same time keeping a
mental image of what you're aiming for, in your mind. IF your efforts are
making the real dog look a little more like that ideal, continue ( only has
to be a little each day ... another way to say seemless steps ... but a
little is essential ) .

BUT, if not, do NOT continue to do the same old thing, over and over
(regardless if it's in the book or not ) ... invent something new, or look
for a new added 'step,' a new way to try and help her understand both what
you want and that she must do it. "More of the same" when the "same"
isn't working is **** poor dog training or other form of leadership .. Don't
be a Republican. G

4) If you have specific questions or problems ( remember I specialzed in
Field Trial retrievers, we recently got my first 'pet/ house dog' in 50
years .. my 'general' training experience is limited ) .. feel free to
ask,



Larry L

OH ... one thing ... a hunting dog should NEVER be allowed to jump on
anybody ... period, no exceptions, not in your house, not when she's glad
you're home from work, NEVER ... a 12 gauge and a jumping dog is a bad mix