How much fly line?

wrote in news:1174591744.736814.61840
@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:


Incidentally, this application is on the upper limits of single handed
rod capacity. The 9´6" is better than a 9´here, as the longer reach is
useful. However, for this application, I would seriously consider
using a light double hander in the twelve to fourteen n foot range. I
can´t give you much information on that though as I don´t use them
very often, only very occasionally, and am not well informed enough to
give you qualified advice on that.

As somebody else mentioned, Peter Charles would probably be the man
for that, but I don´t know whether he even still posts here. If you
are interested in trying such, then let me know, and I will find
somebody who can give you more info on it.

TL
MC


Also, I recommend "Fly Fishing for Gread Lakes Steelhead", by Rick Kustich,
who lives on Grand Island. Great review of how you should gear up, and I
think it talks specifically about the Niagara.

--
Scott
Reverse name to reply

Scott Seidman wrote in
. 1.4:

wrote in news:1174591744.736814.61840
@y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:


Incidentally, this application is on the upper limits of single
handed rod capacity. The 9´6" is better than a 9´here, as the longer
reach is useful. However, for this application, I would seriously
consider using a light double hander in the twelve to fourteen n foot
range. I can´t give you much information on that though as I don´t
use them very often, only very occasionally, and am not well informed
enough to give you qualified advice on that.

As somebody else mentioned, Peter Charles would probably be the man
for that, but I don´t know whether he even still posts here. If you
are interested in trying such, then let me know, and I will find
somebody who can give you more info on it.

TL
MC


Also, I recommend "Fly Fishing for Gread Lakes Steelhead", by Rick
Kustich, who lives on Grand Island. Great review of how you should
gear up, and I think it talks specifically about the Niagara.


In fact, there are some practical considerations for this type of
fishing. Often, the air temp is below freezing, so manipulating your
line is a no-no, or you'll constantly be clearing your frozen guides.
It's often windy, or otherwise miserable, and the water is moving pretty
fast. You'll be using substantial split shot to bring your fly down, and
casting isn't pretty-- but at least you'll never have to worry about
sending the line out far-- its easy.

In fact, around here, some of the less attractive methods involve loading
a fly rod and reel with mono!! I think that's about to be outlawed in
fly-fishing only areas.

Another deadly non fly fishing method that's seeing increased activity in
the area is center-pin fishing.

--
Scott
Reverse name to reply

Mike,

Thank you very much for the quick and comprehensive information.
And because you just mentioned homemade rod building I have another
question. Is it true that the length of the rod have relatively no
impact on the length of the total shot and that the shorter rod is
preferable in the most circumstances.
What is your favorite rod?

Thanks again.

Vladimir L.

On 22 Mar 2007 12:06:02 -0700, wrote:

OK. Then I assume you will largely be using streamers, heavy nymphs
etc. I don´t know the average fish size so I will assume that the rig
should be at least capable of fighting and landing a 5 lb brown in
heavy current?

For carrying large streamers or leaded nymphs etc, you will need at
least a piece of #7 to #8 weight line.

You will also need a fairly powerful rod, at least a #7 or #8

My choice here would be as follows;

A shooting head made from a High density sinking line. At the present
time, and for your purposes, I would recommend this;

http://www.rioproducts.com/

The outbound T14 custom. The chart given shows where to cut the line
to obtain the desired weight.

In this case a #7 wt rod ( total load for 90´DT = 555 grains ) which
would be my first choice as I don´t really like casting heavy rods, is
a bit too weak, so I would go for an #8 ( Total DT load 630 grains)
instead.

I would use the line mentioned at 30 ft = 420 grains. ( You can try
it out before you cut it, depending on the rod, you may be able to use
it "out of the box" ) but 490 grains is really too heavy even for an
#8 weight.

This is a very heavy line, and not easy to cast and control. It moves
very fast indeed through the air, and your timing must be impeccable
if you want to avoid a severe belt around the neck or ears. Casting a
high density sinker is not at all the same as casting floating lines.

You can use ordinary tapered leaders here, in the appropriate size
range, either nine or twelve foot. This is not critical on sinking
line presentations. You can even use a length of nylon as a but,t and
simply tie some tippet to it. Turnover and presentation are completely
non critical in such applications. You should use a needle knot or
similar to attach your butt section;
http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/knots/needle/index.html

If you want to save some money, then you can make up your own shooting
heads, You will find info here;

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...s/1st-7th.html

http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...ads/index.html

You can use any reel you like which will hold the head and the
backing. I would use good braid or similar backing in this case. I
would go for the lightest reel I could find which will hold my line.
Probably a carbon fibre composite like this;

http://www.morayflyfishing.co.uk/okumaairframereels.php

I use these reels in the salt, among other things, they are light,
cheap and very reliable. You will doubtless find a distributor in the
USA

Any fast #8 weight from 9´to 9´6" will suit you. I can´t recommend a
specific rod here, I build my own.

There are other possible combinations, and a couple which would be
easier to cast as well. But the outfit described will do the job for
you. The T14 is a little on the heavy side, normally I would not
recommend sinking heads in excess of about 300 grains, but in this
specific case, the extra weight is justified.

TL
MC

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Mar 22, 9:05 pm, Vladimir L. wrote:
Mike,

Thank you very much for the quick and comprehensive information.
And because you just mentioned homemade rod building I have another
question. Is it true that the length of the rod have relatively no
impact on the length of the total shot and that the shorter rod is
preferable in the most circumstances.
What is your favorite rod?

Thanks again.

Vladimir L.


Usually the optimal rod length for a person of normal build and height
is about 9´3". Taller more powerful people can use longer rods. Above
about 9´6" single handed rods become progressively more difficult to
use, this is independent of the actual rod weight, and is a result of
the increasing leverage.

For most purposes, the longest rod you can handle is the most
efficient tool, but there are many circumstances where a shorter rod
is of greater advantage, and for many, simply more pleasurable to use.

One of the rods I really like simply "using" is a 7´6" #5 weight Sage
GFL 576 RPL, but it is not the most efficient tool for many of the
things I do. I have a large number of rods, and I use them all for
various purposes. I like to use a lot of different techniques and
tactics. There are also a number of rods I use with various line
combinations for various applications.

Over the years, I have also built a large number of rods. This
included designing mandrels and wrapping pre-preg. I was very happy
with most of them, as indeed were others who have used them.

Also, taste in rods varies very widely indeed. Nowadays many people
choose a rod for various reasons, and then go about getting the rest
of the set-up. This is not really sensible. but it is what most people
do. The "action" and other attributes of various rods has become less
critical with advances in other tackle. It is not necessary to use a
fast rod for dry fly fishing, as modern floatants will keep flies
floating a long time. It is no longer necessary to use a slow soft
actioned rod for wet-fly fishing as one may use weighted flies or
sinking lines etc. It is no longer necessary to use a fast powerful
rod for nymphing, one may simply use a heavier piece of line on a
light rod , etc etc etc.

There are also very many specialist applications, such as the one you
asked about, which require highly specific equipment.

Most people nowadays generally choose an "action" they simply "like",
for no particular reason. This often results in problems, as that
action may not be well suited to what they actually want to do.

Really, I would have to say that my "favourite" rod is the one I
happen to be using at the time.

TL
MC

On Thu, 22 Mar 2007 16:05:35 -0400, Vladimir L.
wrote:

Mike,

Thank you very much for the quick and comprehensive information.
And because you just mentioned homemade rod building I have another
question. Is it true that the length of the rod have relatively no
impact on the length of the total shot and that the shorter rod is
preferable in the most circumstances.

Oh, Lordy, Lordy...OTOH, give credit where it's due...if anyone ought to
know a bunch of stuff about short rods, it's Mikey...

What is your favorite rod?

I'd suggest whatever's on special offer down at the train station...

On 22 Mar 2007 09:51:47 -0700, wrote:


I need that information to give you a sensible answer.

OK, this one would be like shooting hatchlings in a teacup...