Flyline Mystery

Find a gear whore, string them up on spools, cast with rods, whatever
feels best to you, then mark appropriately.
You could go to Bass Pro Shops on Thanksgiving Day and buy one of each
weight of their Conservationist fly rods for 50 bucks a pop. Then you
don't even have to find the gear whore.
--
Frank Reid
Reverse Email to reply

Find a gear whore, string them up on spools, cast with rods, whatever
feels best to you, then mark appropriately.
You could go to Bass Pro Shops on Thanksgiving Day and buy one of each
weight of their Conservationist fly rods for 50 bucks a pop. Then you
don't even have to find the gear whore.
--
Frank Reid
Reverse Email to reply

Find a gear whore, string them up on spools, cast with rods, whatever
feels best to you, then mark appropriately.
You could go to Bass Pro Shops on Thanksgiving Day and buy one of each
weight of their Conservationist fly rods for 50 bucks a pop. Then you
don't even have to find the gear whore.
--
Frank Reid
Reverse Email to reply

"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...
I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

how old are they? *i am* new to this, but i'm thinking about dry rot, or
some kind of deterioration?

snake

"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...
I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

how old are they? *i am* new to this, but i'm thinking about dry rot, or
some kind of deterioration?

snake

In article ,
says...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:19:44 GMT, LDR
wrote:

In article ,
says...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 02:22:01 GMT, LDR
wrote:

I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

Well, depending on how old they are, mic'ing will probably of be of
limited use, or at least, the wrong way to start, unless you know the
brand and model. With weight-standard lines, diameter is only a
readily-identifying factor if you know more about the line. If you know
exactly what you had, brand and model, but they simply aren't labeled as
to weight (for example, 333s in 4, 6, and 8), mic'ing would work without
any further info - the thinnest is the 4, the next the 6, the biggest
the 8.

If you don't remember anything more than weight (if they are
weight-standard, rather than diameter-standard, lines) and they are of
"normal" configuration (WF or DT), weigh the first 30 feet of each,
compare to a AFTMA table, and if you get what you expect, no more is
needed. If you don't have a clue as to what they are, weigh 'em, get
close, and use accordingly. Putting a 5 wt. line on a 4 or 6 wt. rod
isn't going to be a huge deal with average fishing, but if you get what
you perceive as loading or other "weirdness," adjust usage as you would
with a known line.

As an aside, why do you "think" they are still usable? I'd not use them
for any "important" fishing until you determine condition. Also, if you
get stuck, you might post all you know - color, age, where purchased,
etc. - and maybe they can be identified as least as to make and model.

HTH,
R


Best thanks for your response. I think you're right in your unspoken
advice to just spend my way out of the problem. I was curious, though,
because it's easy to figure what you have in a leader and I thought the
technique there could be transferred to lines. But again you're right:
it would be like taking wedding pictures with old, unpredictable film.

Whoops - I didn't say "just spend your way out of the problem." (snip)

Of course I wasn't really going to do it :-) This thread does bring up
another burning (to me) question of mine. While I am not a rank
tenderfoot, I don't have the experience to know when to dump a flyline.
Yes, if nibbled away enough by leader changing, but otherwide when? My
casting is not yet that assured, so when it's wrong is it me or the
geometry and balance of the tackle? The reason I have leftover flylines
is because of an expensive process of elimination. (by the way, the
collective knowledge of this group is really incredible.)

In article ,
says...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:19:44 GMT, LDR
wrote:

In article ,
says...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 02:22:01 GMT, LDR
wrote:

I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

Well, depending on how old they are, mic'ing will probably of be of
limited use, or at least, the wrong way to start, unless you know the
brand and model. With weight-standard lines, diameter is only a
readily-identifying factor if you know more about the line. If you know
exactly what you had, brand and model, but they simply aren't labeled as
to weight (for example, 333s in 4, 6, and 8), mic'ing would work without
any further info - the thinnest is the 4, the next the 6, the biggest
the 8.

If you don't remember anything more than weight (if they are
weight-standard, rather than diameter-standard, lines) and they are of
"normal" configuration (WF or DT), weigh the first 30 feet of each,
compare to a AFTMA table, and if you get what you expect, no more is
needed. If you don't have a clue as to what they are, weigh 'em, get
close, and use accordingly. Putting a 5 wt. line on a 4 or 6 wt. rod
isn't going to be a huge deal with average fishing, but if you get what
you perceive as loading or other "weirdness," adjust usage as you would
with a known line.

As an aside, why do you "think" they are still usable? I'd not use them
for any "important" fishing until you determine condition. Also, if you
get stuck, you might post all you know - color, age, where purchased,
etc. - and maybe they can be identified as least as to make and model.

HTH,
R


Best thanks for your response. I think you're right in your unspoken
advice to just spend my way out of the problem. I was curious, though,
because it's easy to figure what you have in a leader and I thought the
technique there could be transferred to lines. But again you're right:
it would be like taking wedding pictures with old, unpredictable film.

Whoops - I didn't say "just spend your way out of the problem." (snip)

Of course I wasn't really going to do it :-) This thread does bring up
another burning (to me) question of mine. While I am not a rank
tenderfoot, I don't have the experience to know when to dump a flyline.
Yes, if nibbled away enough by leader changing, but otherwide when? My
casting is not yet that assured, so when it's wrong is it me or the
geometry and balance of the tackle? The reason I have leftover flylines
is because of an expensive process of elimination. (by the way, the
collective knowledge of this group is really incredible.)

Snake I have a similar problem to Larry in that I have 3 floating Bass taper
lines that I am trying to size to fit three different reels. I know the
weight of the reels but not the fly lines. I am OK with fitting a eight
weight on a 7 weight reel or a seven weight on a 6 weight reel but the line
has GOT to float.

Next time you replace your leader look closely at the floating fly line.
Modern bass bug and floating fly lines have a core and a plastic-like
coating. Dry rot is not probable but deterioration caused from hot sun,
rock abrasions, limbs, oar locks, etc all take their toll on that coating.
When the coating cracks moisture seeps into the core and the fly line sinks
in the water and big popping bugs hit me in the face when casting!!!

First I look (using magnifying glass) for small cracks or separations. Next
I slide the fly line slowly through my finger tips and try to see or feel
those cracks up until I get to the Bug taper. Third if it looks OK onto the
spool it goes and then it gets cleaned and treated with line coating. Last
off to the water it goes for the real world check out. FWIW on the water I
expect floating fly line to float minimum of four hours without recleaning.
Failure at any level goes to the trash can.

Hope this helps.
Good luck!
John

--
Remove FLY to reply
"snakefiddler" wrote in message
...

"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...
I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

how old are they? *i am* new to this, but i'm thinking about dry rot, or
some kind of deterioration?

snake

Snake I have a similar problem to Larry in that I have 3 floating Bass taper
lines that I am trying to size to fit three different reels. I know the
weight of the reels but not the fly lines. I am OK with fitting a eight
weight on a 7 weight reel or a seven weight on a 6 weight reel but the line
has GOT to float.

Next time you replace your leader look closely at the floating fly line.
Modern bass bug and floating fly lines have a core and a plastic-like
coating. Dry rot is not probable but deterioration caused from hot sun,
rock abrasions, limbs, oar locks, etc all take their toll on that coating.
When the coating cracks moisture seeps into the core and the fly line sinks
in the water and big popping bugs hit me in the face when casting!!!

First I look (using magnifying glass) for small cracks or separations. Next
I slide the fly line slowly through my finger tips and try to see or feel
those cracks up until I get to the Bug taper. Third if it looks OK onto the
spool it goes and then it gets cleaned and treated with line coating. Last
off to the water it goes for the real world check out. FWIW on the water I
expect floating fly line to float minimum of four hours without recleaning.
Failure at any level goes to the trash can.

Hope this helps.
Good luck!
John

--
Remove FLY to reply
"snakefiddler" wrote in message
...

"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...
I have a few flylines I think still usable that I neglected to label. Is
there a way to identify what they are? For instance, if I have a 4 wt,
are there diameter specifications available that would tell me after I
put a micrometer on them? TIA

how old are they? *i am* new to this, but i'm thinking about dry rot, or
some kind of deterioration?

snake

John wrote:
FWIW on the water I
expect floating fly line to float minimum of four hours without recleaning.
Failure at any level goes to the trash can.


Every line I own would go into the trash based on that criteria
including brand new lines.

Willi