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#11
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On Thu, 27 May 2004 07:02:48 -0400, "snakefiddler"
wrote: are you saying there was there a connection between the power bait and the fish deaths? The only connection is that trout may be more likely to swallow Powerbait and get deep hooked. As soon as a trout gets a fly in its mouth it generally realizes it isn't food tries to spit it out. -- Charlie... |
#12
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Mike Connor wrote:
[snip of extremely interesting discussion of homemade hooks] For tempering, one needs a small steel plate. First the hooks are hardened, by heating to cherry red, and dropping into ice water. The hooks are then placed in a container of sand, and shaken until bright. The metal plate is heated, the hooks placed on the plate, and carefully watched for the temper colour changes. The colour changes of the steel are caused by oxidation on the metal surface, and are extremely temperature specific. When the required temperature is achieved, the hooks are tipped off the plate immediately into ice water. If the temper is OK, then that was that. If not, simply repeat until the temper is OK. Once the temper is OK, then once again shake the hooks in sand ( Carborundum grit, etc etc) to clean off any scale etc. The temper colours vary somewhat depending on the steel used. High carbon steel is required. The stuff used for pins and needles is perfect. Some wires may not be. What basic colors are you looking for with hooks? I know among the woodworking community there is quite a bit of discussion (argument, really) about which types of tool steel are best for plane irons and such, and how they should be tempered. In woodworking edge-tools, we are looking for the balance between hardness and brittleness, and depending on the type of steel and the application, you might aim for a brown yellow (plane iron) to a blue (sawblade or scraper). So what have you found to be the optimal range for hooks? Chuck Vance |
#13
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#14
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![]() "Conan the Librarian" wrote in message ... SNIP What basic colors are you looking for with hooks? I know among the woodworking community there is quite a bit of discussion (argument, really) about which types of tool steel are best for plane irons and such, and how they should be tempered. In woodworking edge-tools, we are looking for the balance between hardness and brittleness, and depending on the type of steel and the application, you might aim for a brown yellow (plane iron) to a blue (sawblade or scraper). So what have you found to be the optimal range for hooks? Chuck Vance Depends on the steel used. From light straw to blue. Much the same as for many tools. The simplest thing is to try a few, it does not take long. "Case hardening", will improve many wires. This can be done on a charcoal block, or by placing the hooks in charcoal powder, ( or similar) and heating to red heat. For the needles I have used I aim mainly for dark straw, and test from there. One may temper as many times as one wishes, so it is not really a problem, except with very fine wires. Hooks below about a size 16 are not really worth the bother either. TL MC |
#15
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![]() Charlie Choc wrote in message ... On Thu, 27 May 2004 07:02:48 -0400, "snakefiddler" wrote: As soon as a trout gets a fly in its mouth it generally realizes it isn't food tries to spit it out. And they sometimes do this so damned fast! |
#16
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#17
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#18
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On Thu, 27 May 2004 20:21:59 -0500, "Wolfgang"
wrote: Either that or you would be seen as a party pooper type. Speaking of which, it looks like we'll be attending seperate soirees in a couple of weeks. While I haven't spoken to him lately, I'm sure that Joel is still planning to rip some lips in that highly confidential smallmouth paradise not so very far from you that I've been promising to take you to. As he has promised to take a friend (?!) with him, I suspect his plans are not amenable to change. For good or ill, I'll be joining them......um.....just so they don't get lost. Well, good luck to ya then. Of course one could fish the Secret Spot (tm) for a day and then zip the mere 150 miles west over to the Trimbelle campground and toast ones shins by the fire. Again, good luck. And listen for the sirens!!! g.c. g.c. Still wondering where we're going to find another planet. How many ya need, kid? Wolfgang checking his pockets. |
#19
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Mike Connor wrote:
"Conan the Librarian" wrote in message ... So what have you found to be the optimal range for hooks? Depends on the steel used. From light straw to blue. Much the same as for many tools. The simplest thing is to try a few, it does not take long. "Case hardening", will improve many wires. This can be done on a charcoal block, or by placing the hooks in charcoal powder, ( or similar) and heating to red heat. For the needles I have used I aim mainly for dark straw, and test from there. One may temper as many times as one wishes, so it is not really a problem, except with very fine wires. Hooks below about a size 16 are not really worth the bother either. Thanks for the info. I didn't realize that you could temper multiple times without making the hooks too brittle. (If I'm not mistaken, that is an issue with tool steel.) When you say you "test from there", do you mean you simply take them astream, or do you have some other way of testing them? Anyhow, thanks for the detailed description and the followup. I love the DIY approach to these sorts of things, so it looks like I may be entering a new aspect of this hobby. Chuck Vance |
#20
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![]() "Conan the Librarian" wrote in message ... Mike Connor wrote: SNIP ..) When you say you "test from there", do you mean you simply take them astream, or do you have some other way of testing them? Anyhow, thanks for the detailed description and the followup. I love the DIY approach to these sorts of things, so it looks like I may be entering a new aspect of this hobby. Chuck Vance You must of course de-temper ( anneal) before retempering, as some steels will indeed go very brittle otherwise. One should try at least one or two of the raw hooks from each batch one makes. If you "case harden" wire using the charcoal or powdered carbon methods, you must be careful not to overdo it. I usually try a few samples to see how it turns out. This works very well with some wires, and not too well with others. This of course is dependent on the amount of carbon in the steel already. Without an extensive metallurgy lab, there is no way to test this except by trial and error. Many hookmakers in the past tempered their hooks to purple. Some older hooks, which tend to be soft, where tempered blue. There were only a few of the older hookmakers who knew the secret of making good high carbon steel. This also caused problems. Nowadays this is not a problem. After you have tested a few hooks, you will simply "know" if they are OK. Just fix them in a fly-vice and pluck them, ( I do the same test on manufactured hooks anyway). It is easy to see and hear whether you got it right. Once you know the temper colour for that particular material ( Stainless steel is different!), then the rest is easy. Harden, and then temper. If you want to play about with this, then just buy some cheap hooks, detemper them, and then re-harden and temper. Quite a few salmon fly dressers buy cheaper salmon hooks, and re-shape and temper them, in order to obtain exactly what they want, although the temper here is not critical, as these hooks are not used for fishing, merely for dressing show flies. Really, the whole thing is quite easy. After doing a few, you just know how it goes. The most difficult operations are barbing, and forming the eye consistently. The rest is really just routine. With a little practice, even these operations are quite easy. TL MC |
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