Long tapered leaders

In article , PRM
wrote:

If you do have to deal with these situations, go long, realizing that
it may not look pretty but it will work. BTW, make sure to cast far enough
upstream to let the "kinks" in the "clump" of the leader to work itself out
before passing over the strike area.

Many years ago I had casting lessons from the Hardy professional, Andy
Murray. One of the things he taught me for dryfly upstream casting on
glassy water is to give your rod a good sideways wiggle as the line is
flying out. If you get the timing right on this it will lay your tippet
in a zig-zag pattern that will straighten as the stream pulls at it,
but will leave the fly un-dragged.

Lazarus

"Lazarus Cooke" wrote


Many years ago I had casting lessons from the Hardy professional, Andy
Murray. One of the things he taught me for dryfly upstream casting on
glassy water is to give your rod a good sideways wiggle as the line is
flying out. If you get the timing right on this it will lay your tippet
in a zig-zag pattern that will straighten as the stream pulls at it,
but will leave the fly un-dragged.



casting slack ... in the wiggle cast you mention, or various pile casts ...
is a key to difficult dry fly waters ( ones with complex currents over weeds
and such )



The ability to pile up the tippet to absorb some 'drag' greatly increases
success on some waters but like all this stuff we must practice ... try to
put the fly on the pie plate in the yard with lots of tippet slack .. then
without same. Add learning to throw curves around obstacles part way to
the plate and/ or at the end. It's possible to throw slack into the
middle of the line with the leader still turning over well also etc.

One cast I learned a few years back is useful if emerging weeds are between
you and the fish, but he is just inches on the other side. The weeds keep
the line/ leader from flowing downstream and if you cast normally ( turned
over leader ) drag is instant. Try forcing a cast HARD and fast right into
the weeds ... they will absorb the force keeping the 'spat' from scaring our
prey and the end of the tippet will travel a little farther, coming down
well after the line ( remember you cast like you were trying to bury the
line ) in a nasty pile just past the weeds ... viola, fish on ( learned this
on Hot Creek where such weeds are common and wading to get a better angle,
highly frowned upon )

This slack where it helps stuff is partly leader construction, but mainly
just 'bad casting' ... on purpose

Thanks for all the repost.
-tom

On Feb 8, 3:05 pm, "Tom Nakashima" wrote:
Has anyone had success turning over flies with long tapered
leaders?
Currently I'm using 4x 9' knotless tapered leaders with 18"
5x tippet material and been having good success turning over
18-16 size flies. I'm now planning to try 12' leaders with an 18"
5x tippet material. I'm thinking however the leaders don't
necessarily have to be knotless.
Any good formulas for 12' leaders for delicate presentation?
Keep in mind I do want to use 18" tippet material.
thanks,
-tom

I use them... No one really had much good to say about them, but I
fish a big tailwaters mostly. I think just like anyone you can get
carried away with a ton of leader, and struggling to get the
presentation just right when using one. On a nice non-windy day I
believe they work on a lot of those picky fish either runnin shallow
or in calm water. It does take practice to cast but I think you should
try it and see if it's right for your situation.

One thing I've learned about casting 12' leaders is, it's more
difficult to cast short distances. I've been practicing casting at
various distances between 25' - 60' with the long leaders.
At shorter distances of 25' there's less line and therefore less
weight to carry the leader effectively for a good turnover of
the fly. This is where good tip-caster could do well.
-tom

Tom Nakashima wrote:
One thing I've learned about casting 12' leaders is, it's more
difficult to cast short distances. I've been practicing casting at
various distances between 25' - 60' with the long leaders.
At shorter distances of 25' there's less line and therefore less
weight to carry the leader effectively for a good turnover of
the fly. This is where good tip-caster could do well.
-tom



You need a 12' rod. :-)

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

"rw" wrote



You need a 12' rod. :-)



Which, for no reason even I can understand, reminds me that I've never been
able to 'dap' with any success ... seems the wind is blowing whenever I need
to try it and lowering the fly into the correct spot becomes an exercise in
frustration

"rw" wrote in message
m...
Tom Nakashima wrote:
One thing I've learned about casting 12' leaders is, it's more
difficult to cast short distances. I've been practicing casting at
various distances between 25' - 60' with the long leaders.
At shorter distances of 25' there's less line and therefore less
weight to carry the leader effectively for a good turnover of
the fly. This is where good tip-caster could do well.
-tom
You need a 12' rod. :-)
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

It's just the opposite Steve,
to "cast short distances" with longer leaders, say 12' leaders,
a 7.5" fly-rod would work better. Or tip-cast. I was playing around
with tip-casting (using more of the wrist) and was able to generate
enough speed at a short distances to turn over the fly.

It's probably good to have a length range of leaders handy, and to
know how to cast them at various distances.
-tom

Steve a écrit :

Have you tried this?
http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbette...c/download.php



Quite interesting, thanks for sharing.

--
Hope to read you soon,

Denis
www.uqtr.ca/~lamyd

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