Electric Motor for new Outcast Pontoon

On Fri, 3 Oct 2008 18:07:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Oct 3, 7:52*am, wrote:
On Fri, 3 Oct 2008 07:27:44 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Oct 3, 3:59*am, wrote:

Anybody hooked up one of those 12 volt solar trickle chargers? *. . .
for an RV, camper, cabin 12 volt set up? *Recommends?
I just pulled the biggest, heaviest deep cycle Ive ever seen out of a
used camper. Branded "Alaskan Gold," Whats the skinny on these big
boys?
Dave

As to the solar, yep. *Have several and am pleased with them thus far. I
got several on a "closeout" deal at West Marine (in-store) when they
went from rigid to folding/rollable (I think I paid about $30.00 on
average two sizes, something like 75% off), so given the price, they
were a no-brainer. *I also have several large panel set-ups, but unless
you really want something like that, I'd say stick with the smaller,
pre-packaged units.

As to the deep cycles, don't drain them completely, keep a float charge
on them, check the fluid level, and don't use them for starting
batteries. *Some marine apps use 8v batteries in 24v systems, and maybe
RVs do, too, but ???. *Some of the large batteries with the terminals on
the end are 8v, some 12v, so check what you have.

TC,
R

Thanx for info. West Marine is new to me but it looks like they've got
stores all over this area, so Im going over there in a day or two.. Do
you have any of the smaller units hooked up to deep cycles permantly?

No, and I wouldn't do so.

Im planning to put something in that will keep me in light,
water(pumped) and maybe a little heat, with LNG mostly powering the
cookstove, heater and refridg, of a stationary camper. Lots of sun in
SW Washington.

Ive got lots of industrial grade power for pumps etc.,
but no easy 120.

I'm not sure what you mean by "industrial grade power," but if you mean
3 phase, you got 120 even if you didn't realize it, and surprised you
wouldn't realize it or that the utility wouldn't provide it, so ???
(normally, 3 phase is harder to get to a "residential" location than
single-phase, and there is VERY little 2 phase around, so ???). But if
it is 3 phase, depending on the exact kind, the high leg and neutral or
2 legs of the 3 will get you various voltages of "home grade power" -
just make sure you know what type and whether you need 240, 208, 110,
120, etc. when dealing with things that are voltage-specific - don't,
for example, hook a modern "computer-controlled" 240v water heater to
two legs and the neutral of certain systems (you'll get 208v, not 240v).

I want a set up that will support me for 1-2 weeks at
a time between plug in battery recharges. Suggestions?

I'd want to know more about the load on the battery(s) - pretty exact
watts and the voltage of everything you want to run would be helpful.

How big are your biggest arrays? What do they yield?

We have several 100 and 200 watt panels. I can gang them as I wish.
Keep in mind that many large "naked" panels are 24v.

TC,
R


Dave

On Oct 5, 5:49*pm, wrote:

Power is not something I know much about, but so far Ive managed to
avoid getting knocked on my ass, but that's it.
What I think I Know:
1. Its 3 phase.
2. Comes in an poles, terms on a pole with 3 canisters, transformers I
assume, then splits to 2 shorter poles and down to meters and panel
boards, hence underground on to 2 different pumping station panels.
One's my renter's pump, one's my neighbor's. I want no shared meters.
3. A lineman from an adjacent RECoop saw it and said he thought the
local coop would rather take off a residential type line one pole back
from the term, and not mess around with the transformers. That is also
close to where I might put an equipment/shop shed.
4. The REcoop puts it in free?

On the solar front, think I'll start with a low cost generic trickle
charger solar panel, get a feel for it, then get something I
understand, probably something less than 100 watts.

Dave

On Oct 1, 11:13*pm, daytripper wrote:
On Wed, 1 Oct 2008 20:09:50 -0700 (PDT), royal coachman



wrote:
Hi,
I have been fly fishing, in the west, for several years. We travel
full-time in an RV so we can visit almost any fishing venue. (If it
wasn t *for the lack of a national fishing license )
I decided a pontoon boat would be good to explore small lakes and
rivers. I have ordered an Outcast 900FS, a one man, 9 foot pontoon
with a 400 lb capacity. It has a motor mount in the center of the boat
behind the seat.
Question: I would like to get an electric motor for the pontoon but I
don t know what motor to buy. I need some advice from folks with
experience with these motors on pontoons. Brand, model, thrust
required without over powering the boat. Since the motor will be
mounted in the center, how will I control the speed/direction? Thanks
much for your advice/opinions.
Sincerely, Jerry Thomas

Looking at the AIRE web site (manufacturer of the Outcast series)http://www.outcastboats.com/outcastb...e.cfm?boatid=4
the motor mount appears to be well astern, so the effectiveness of steering
with a trolling motor should not be a problem. Whether you could comfortably
swing the tiller arm of a trolling motor full left and right from the seat
might be an issue if you are short, but the motor will be in the best place
for steering. You might have to locate the frame as far forward as the
attachment points allow to counter the stern weight of the motor and battery,
lest you ride bow high.

Anyway...A 12v Minn Kota or Motor Guide short shaft transom mount with 30 to
40 pounds of thrust ought to be plenty. For Minn Kota, an Endura 30 (30lb, 30"
shaft, 5fwd/3rev speeds) would fit the bill inexpensively, has a composite
shaft (nearly boink proof) and comes with a tiller that can extend an extra
6", which might prove helpful. The comparable Motor Guide model is the
Thruster 30 HT (30lb, 30" shaft, 5fwd/2rev speeds), but it has a metal shaft
and no tiller extension. Both can be had for roughly $110. Both have speed and
direction control by the tiller grip, so if you can reach it, you can control
it.

fwiw, I've been using a Minn Kota on my canoes for nearly two decades now, and
as it has never ever had an issue, I'm a fan...

/daytripper

I have always loved this idea! There are so many remote sites here in
Alaska and a simple canoe with an electric motor is just the way to
go.
gloomishat

On Sun, 5 Oct 2008 22:16:09 -0700 (PDT), DaveS
wrote:

On Oct 5, 5:49*pm, wrote:

Power is not something I know much about, but so far Ive managed to
avoid getting knocked on my ass, but that's it.
What I think I Know:
1. Its 3 phase.

Simply put, if you have 3 phase 240v, you also have 120 and 240
single-phase "house current."
2. Comes in an poles, terms on a pole with 3 canisters, transformers I
assume, then splits to 2 shorter poles and down to meters and panel
boards, hence underground on to 2 different pumping station panels.
One's my renter's pump, one's my neighbor's. I want no shared meters.

I see nothing in your description that would _require_ it, but here's a
thought: if you renter's pump's electrical usage is fairly constant over
the course of time, add the cost to the rent, have it be your meter and
service, and you're done. Any electrician can have you a 110/240 RV
panel added to the existing box and running in about 30 min or less.

3. A lineman from an adjacent RECoop saw it and said he thought the
local coop would rather take off a residential type line one pole back
from the term, and not mess around with the transformers. That is also
close to where I might put an equipment/shop shed.

I'm not sure what you or he are saying.

4. The REcoop puts it in free?

You're asking me? I have no idea.

On the solar front, think I'll start with a low cost generic trickle
charger solar panel, get a feel for it, then get something I
understand, probably something less than 100 watts.

Probably the wise course. 100-200 watt panels are not cheap, and unless
you know what you need and what you're requirements are, you could
easily wind up wasting serious money.

TC,
R

Dave

On Oct 6, 6:01*am, wrote:

Appreciate your advice. It will help me to ask some of the right
questions. Thanks.

Dave

wrote

Thanx for info. West Marine is new to me but it looks like they've got
stores all over this area, so Im going over there in a day or two.. Do
you have any of the smaller units hooked up to deep cycles permantly?
Im planning to put something in that will keep me in light,
water(pumped) and maybe a little heat, with LNG mostly powering the
cookstove, heater and refridg, of a stationary camper. Lots of sun in
SW Washington. Ive got lots of industrial grade power for pumps etc.,
but no easy 120. I want a set up that will support me for 1-2 weeks at
a time between plug in battery recharges. Suggestions?



I put some solar panels on my travel trailer along with a controller ( to
keep them from overcharging the batteries ). I got mine at
NorthernTool.com and am pleased. I run all the normal battery powered
functions of the trailer plus use a small inverter to run 110 volt fly tying
lights and a minimal number of other things. I've never had the batteries
get low using the rig in "lots of sun season" May - Oct. Total cost,
about $400 if I remember right, inverter included. BUT NOTE: I still
function in a careful, minimum usage mode, always aware of need to be
conservative ( aside: strange the word conservative has come to be
associated with the politicians most likely to be reckless and wasteful).
Such conservative usage is something that you'll quickly learn if you spend
much time in an RV "dry camping"


I have 60 Watts of solar panels, put in everything myself ( I'm a clutz with
tools ), and, as I said, am pleased. BUT, I'm likely to add another 45
WATTS ( my controller is limited to 105 ) to this trailer, for added buffer
and ...ah, "because I can." My wife is retiring in March and we may get a
much larger trailer after a long test trip next summer to see if she likes
the lifestyle ... if we do I'll invest ( several thou$and for such
installations, I'm told ) in a professionally installed solar/ inverter
system and extra batteries ( probably 4 - 6Volts wired in the combination of
series and parallel that would produce 12Volt ). I've been unable to find
any official, seemingly knowledgeable, formulas for determining how much
solar to put in, but have heard "a guy that knows told me" style rumors in
the area of 100WATTS/ battery being maintained for maximum usage from those
batteries with minimum risk of running them down ... i.e. long term solar/
battery only living

At least with small inverters ( I'm not sure about the large ones built into
RVs that automatically power the rig's110 outlets ) running devices to
charge electronics isn't very efficient ( it says something about how much
we're slaves to our techy stuff that we spend so much time pandering to it
all ). Example, changing 12 Volt from the batteries to 110VOLT via the
inverter then plugging in a wall-wart that then changes the 110Volt back to
low voltage to charge a cell phone ... suks. Get direct 12Volt chargers
for cell phones, laptops, iPods, etc and keep the 12 Volt available with
solar ....

probably the best part of my summer was going 4 months without ever turning
on a TV, or radio, or reading a paper or using the 'Net for anything but
Skype calls to my son in Chile ... so I can't honestly say about TV ... but
I'd "guess" that one that runs on 12Volt would drain batteries less than
using an inverter, too. I'm investigating replacing my 110Volt tying
lights with 12Volt but running wiring through an RV is a pain and it would
require doing that to get dedicated, fused, 12Volt receptacles to my "tying
room" .... In other words, plan to use the 12 Volt directly as much as
possible for greatest efficiency Motors ( fan motor on your furnace ) use
up battery FAST ... I'd be prepared with a small quiet generator ( love my
Honda ) if I was going to run the furnace much ... I doubt a small solar
system can keep up, especially since "heating season" and "sun season" don't
tend to go together G .

On Oct 6, 8:54*am, "Larry L" wrote:
tend to go together G .

Thanx Larry, very useful info.
What you said about the furnace fan . . . strikes a note. It seems
to me that small RV heating systems that used hot water or heated
silicone would be allot more efficient and possibly safer. . . . or
that radiant in the floor would work better that the standard setup.
Maybe safer too and more robust to use one energy source, but I am not
an engineer.

Hope not to run the furnace much because the camper is very small and
I am used to fleeces indoors here in the PNW wetside. It is colder
East side but we will see.

Your experience seems to suggest that ponying up for the 100 watt
panel/controller early on is the way to go.

Dave

"DaveS" wrote


Your experience seems to suggest that ponying up for the 100 watt
panel/controller early on is the way to go.

Dave



You got me surfing and I stumbled onto this site

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm


I haven't looked around it much, but the page on deep cycle batteries in
this link seems very impressive ... might be worth looking at the other
pages, too G

On Oct 6, 12:25*pm, "Larry L" wrote:

That is a very heavy duty site. I think my next step is to get into a
shop and look at some actual hardware. Maybe also look at an install
at an RV sales lot. The see what I can afford.
Thanx
Dave

On Oct 6, 12:25*pm, "Larry L" wrote:
pages, too G

Curious, Which Sunforce 60 watt package did you use, the 1 panel/4amp,
or the 4 panel/7amp?
Dave