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#21
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#22
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On Oct 5, 5:49*pm, wrote:
Power is not something I know much about, but so far Ive managed to avoid getting knocked on my ass, but that's it. What I think I Know: 1. Its 3 phase. 2. Comes in an poles, terms on a pole with 3 canisters, transformers I assume, then splits to 2 shorter poles and down to meters and panel boards, hence underground on to 2 different pumping station panels. One's my renter's pump, one's my neighbor's. I want no shared meters. 3. A lineman from an adjacent RECoop saw it and said he thought the local coop would rather take off a residential type line one pole back from the term, and not mess around with the transformers. That is also close to where I might put an equipment/shop shed. 4. The REcoop puts it in free? On the solar front, think I'll start with a low cost generic trickle charger solar panel, get a feel for it, then get something I understand, probably something less than 100 watts. Dave |
#23
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On Oct 1, 11:13*pm, daytripper wrote:
On Wed, 1 Oct 2008 20:09:50 -0700 (PDT), royal coachman wrote: Hi, I have been fly fishing, in the west, for several years. We travel full-time in an RV so we can visit almost any fishing venue. (If it wasn t *for the lack of a national fishing license ) I decided a pontoon boat would be good to explore small lakes and rivers. I have ordered an Outcast 900FS, a one man, 9 foot pontoon with a 400 lb capacity. It has a motor mount in the center of the boat behind the seat. Question: I would like to get an electric motor for the pontoon but I don t know what motor to buy. I need some advice from folks with experience with these motors on pontoons. Brand, model, thrust required without over powering the boat. Since the motor will be mounted in the center, how will I control the speed/direction? Thanks much for your advice/opinions. Sincerely, Jerry Thomas Looking at the AIRE web site (manufacturer of the Outcast series)http://www.outcastboats.com/outcastb...e.cfm?boatid=4 the motor mount appears to be well astern, so the effectiveness of steering with a trolling motor should not be a problem. Whether you could comfortably swing the tiller arm of a trolling motor full left and right from the seat might be an issue if you are short, but the motor will be in the best place for steering. You might have to locate the frame as far forward as the attachment points allow to counter the stern weight of the motor and battery, lest you ride bow high. Anyway...A 12v Minn Kota or Motor Guide short shaft transom mount with 30 to 40 pounds of thrust ought to be plenty. For Minn Kota, an Endura 30 (30lb, 30" shaft, 5fwd/3rev speeds) would fit the bill inexpensively, has a composite shaft (nearly boink proof) and comes with a tiller that can extend an extra 6", which might prove helpful. The comparable Motor Guide model is the Thruster 30 HT (30lb, 30" shaft, 5fwd/2rev speeds), but it has a metal shaft and no tiller extension. Both can be had for roughly $110. Both have speed and direction control by the tiller grip, so if you can reach it, you can control it. fwiw, I've been using a Minn Kota on my canoes for nearly two decades now, and as it has never ever had an issue, I'm a fan... /daytripper I have always loved this idea! There are so many remote sites here in Alaska and a simple canoe with an electric motor is just the way to go. gloomishat |
#24
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On Sun, 5 Oct 2008 22:16:09 -0700 (PDT), DaveS
wrote: On Oct 5, 5:49*pm, wrote: Power is not something I know much about, but so far Ive managed to avoid getting knocked on my ass, but that's it. What I think I Know: 1. Its 3 phase. Simply put, if you have 3 phase 240v, you also have 120 and 240 single-phase "house current." 2. Comes in an poles, terms on a pole with 3 canisters, transformers I assume, then splits to 2 shorter poles and down to meters and panel boards, hence underground on to 2 different pumping station panels. One's my renter's pump, one's my neighbor's. I want no shared meters. I see nothing in your description that would _require_ it, but here's a thought: if you renter's pump's electrical usage is fairly constant over the course of time, add the cost to the rent, have it be your meter and service, and you're done. Any electrician can have you a 110/240 RV panel added to the existing box and running in about 30 min or less. 3. A lineman from an adjacent RECoop saw it and said he thought the local coop would rather take off a residential type line one pole back from the term, and not mess around with the transformers. That is also close to where I might put an equipment/shop shed. I'm not sure what you or he are saying. 4. The REcoop puts it in free? You're asking me? I have no idea. On the solar front, think I'll start with a low cost generic trickle charger solar panel, get a feel for it, then get something I understand, probably something less than 100 watts. Probably the wise course. 100-200 watt panels are not cheap, and unless you know what you need and what you're requirements are, you could easily wind up wasting serious money. TC, R Dave |
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On Oct 6, 6:01*am, wrote:
Appreciate your advice. It will help me to ask some of the right questions. Thanks. Dave |
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![]() wrote Thanx for info. West Marine is new to me but it looks like they've got stores all over this area, so Im going over there in a day or two.. Do you have any of the smaller units hooked up to deep cycles permantly? Im planning to put something in that will keep me in light, water(pumped) and maybe a little heat, with LNG mostly powering the cookstove, heater and refridg, of a stationary camper. Lots of sun in SW Washington. Ive got lots of industrial grade power for pumps etc., but no easy 120. I want a set up that will support me for 1-2 weeks at a time between plug in battery recharges. Suggestions? I put some solar panels on my travel trailer along with a controller ( to keep them from overcharging the batteries ). I got mine at NorthernTool.com and am pleased. I run all the normal battery powered functions of the trailer plus use a small inverter to run 110 volt fly tying lights and a minimal number of other things. I've never had the batteries get low using the rig in "lots of sun season" May - Oct. Total cost, about $400 if I remember right, inverter included. BUT NOTE: I still function in a careful, minimum usage mode, always aware of need to be conservative ( aside: strange the word conservative has come to be associated with the politicians most likely to be reckless and wasteful). Such conservative usage is something that you'll quickly learn if you spend much time in an RV "dry camping" I have 60 Watts of solar panels, put in everything myself ( I'm a clutz with tools ), and, as I said, am pleased. BUT, I'm likely to add another 45 WATTS ( my controller is limited to 105 ) to this trailer, for added buffer and ...ah, "because I can." My wife is retiring in March and we may get a much larger trailer after a long test trip next summer to see if she likes the lifestyle ... if we do I'll invest ( several thou$and for such installations, I'm told ) in a professionally installed solar/ inverter system and extra batteries ( probably 4 - 6Volts wired in the combination of series and parallel that would produce 12Volt ). I've been unable to find any official, seemingly knowledgeable, formulas for determining how much solar to put in, but have heard "a guy that knows told me" style rumors in the area of 100WATTS/ battery being maintained for maximum usage from those batteries with minimum risk of running them down ... i.e. long term solar/ battery only living At least with small inverters ( I'm not sure about the large ones built into RVs that automatically power the rig's110 outlets ) running devices to charge electronics isn't very efficient ( it says something about how much we're slaves to our techy stuff that we spend so much time pandering to it all ). Example, changing 12 Volt from the batteries to 110VOLT via the inverter then plugging in a wall-wart that then changes the 110Volt back to low voltage to charge a cell phone ... suks. Get direct 12Volt chargers for cell phones, laptops, iPods, etc and keep the 12 Volt available with solar .... probably the best part of my summer was going 4 months without ever turning on a TV, or radio, or reading a paper or using the 'Net for anything but Skype calls to my son in Chile ... so I can't honestly say about TV ... but I'd "guess" that one that runs on 12Volt would drain batteries less than using an inverter, too. I'm investigating replacing my 110Volt tying lights with 12Volt but running wiring through an RV is a pain and it would require doing that to get dedicated, fused, 12Volt receptacles to my "tying room" .... In other words, plan to use the 12 Volt directly as much as possible for greatest efficiency Motors ( fan motor on your furnace ) use up battery FAST ... I'd be prepared with a small quiet generator ( love my Honda ) if I was going to run the furnace much ... I doubt a small solar system can keep up, especially since "heating season" and "sun season" don't tend to go together G . |
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On Oct 6, 8:54*am, "Larry L" wrote:
tend to go together G . Thanx Larry, very useful info. What you said about the furnace fan . . . strikes a note. It seems to me that small RV heating systems that used hot water or heated silicone would be allot more efficient and possibly safer. . . . or that radiant in the floor would work better that the standard setup. Maybe safer too and more robust to use one energy source, but I am not an engineer. Hope not to run the furnace much because the camper is very small and I am used to fleeces indoors here in the PNW wetside. It is colder East side but we will see. Your experience seems to suggest that ponying up for the 100 watt panel/controller early on is the way to go. Dave |
#28
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![]() "DaveS" wrote Your experience seems to suggest that ponying up for the 100 watt panel/controller early on is the way to go. Dave You got me surfing and I stumbled onto this site http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm I haven't looked around it much, but the page on deep cycle batteries in this link seems very impressive ... might be worth looking at the other pages, too G |
#29
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On Oct 6, 12:25*pm, "Larry L" wrote:
That is a very heavy duty site. I think my next step is to get into a shop and look at some actual hardware. Maybe also look at an install at an RV sales lot. The see what I can afford. Thanx Dave |
#30
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On Oct 6, 12:25*pm, "Larry L" wrote:
pages, too G Curious, Which Sunforce 60 watt package did you use, the 1 panel/4amp, or the 4 panel/7amp? Dave |
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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