Ping RW et al

On Oct 28, 8:21*am, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 07:39:30 -0400, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-10-28 01:35:02 -0400, " said:

*because I dropped it (and had to repair it with
a visegrip), and I lost the lock nut years ago. Sent it back recently.
$20 later it's like new. I feel like I'm ahead with Bernie and his
sons.

There are lots of good reels, and the really good ones are expensive.
Just make sure that you have an excellent drag and plenty of backing.
And you should have a backup rig.

I too have been happy with my Abels. *The one I use most (with my LT5)
I bought in 1995 or thereabouts. *I thought it was expensive at the
time, but it has excellent trouble-free service all these years.

My only backup rig would be a Sage XP 7 weight with a Lamson reel. *It
souds a little light but has served me well with big salmon and browns.
I'll have to check and make sure it holds enough backing.

The issue with bones isn't exactly "brute strength," it's the run and cast. *I'd
be more concerned with the ability to handle a screaming run than I would the
exact weight class of rod or reel, followed closely with the ability to cast a
fair piece of line into the wind (with a 7 or even a 6 - obviously a wispy 2
with a microreel won't cut it). *Now, if you plan on multi-species fishing
(permit, tarpon, marlin, etc.), you may well need a battery of rods, reels, and
terminal tackle, including some larger-weight gear (or tune your terminal tackle
to protect the gear, if, for example, you're after baby tarpon and get mom or
dad - not likely, but...). *Long story short, a 7 with which _you_ can handle
the casting duties, mated with a reel that will handle the run will be fine.
OTOH, an 8 that _you_ can't cast 20 feet is useless _to you_ as bonefish/flats
gear, as is a reel that either can't handle the run and/or takeup, or, beats the
highholy**** out of you when it does.

IAC, with bones, I put the run-handling slightly above the casting because it
won't help to be able to cast to 'em and then have them smoke the reel once you
hook up, but most rods can, even if with operator difficulty, cast at least far
enough. *And yet again, I'd suggest looking at a 'glass rod as a backup - you
could find a decent rod for under 200.00 (and if you roll yer own, probably well
under 100.00, no time value included). *As a starting point, look around for a
good used Lamiglas or similar, or hell, if you must, IIRC, Tom Morgan sells a 7
or 8 that might be a decent bonefishing rod (I don't know the specifics on it,
so ???). *At least it would be expensive...

One thing to keep in mind, ala the above - one thing with SW fishing that is
substantially different from fresh; the size of the "bait" often goes with the
size of the fish. *IOW, there is a wide variety of fish and size range therein
not found in most FW, and I've seen folks **** up trout (spec) class gear
messing around with things like cobia. *The cobia hookup being intentional -
they rigged up with a large fly that specs would have ignored, just as the cobia
would have ignored a small spec fly/lure/bait. *I've also seen folks manage to
land them on such, too, but they were very experienced and knew how to tend
their gear in such a situation.

HTH,
R





Dave- Hide quoted text -

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For folk w/ a few rods etc . . .
What about using some hearvir steelhead set ups for this fishing?
(Cobia bones etc) Opinions? How much backing? Any use for 2-handers? I
use a standard 8 weight for steelhead but I am fishing small rivers
and the "run" issue is "usually" linear. (Sounds like I catch lots/not
true but above is what Ive experienced myself). In the next week or
two plans are to fish the SE Wa. Steelhead/Brown opening on a lower
Snake trib like the Tucannon. I hear rumblings about good Sockeye runs
hereabouts but no details. Anyone up to speed on Ore/Wash/NorCal
coastals?

Dave

On Oct 26, 4:29*am, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-10-25 14:45:19 -0400, riverman said:

"I'd be up for it."

Figures! *d;o)

The outfitter I'm talking with suggests Los Roques in Venezuela. *
Perhaps not as good, but it would be legal. *When would you be
available for a trip?

Dave

Over Christmas this year would work for me. I'm free from Dec 18 until
Jan 2. I think Roger could be armtwisted into coming, too.

--riverman

wrote in message
...
On Oct 27, 10:14 am, D. LaCourse wrote:

What's your idea for a good bonefish rod/reel?

I use a 4-piece 8wt Sage Z-Axis tip action with a 9wt sharkskin line
and an Abel Super 8 reel. Works for me.


RW,

Have you used the sharkskin in a 5 weight doing NF of the Clearwater type
fishing? If so, what do you think and would you recommend it?

If others have had experience with the Sharkskin, I would like to here what
you have to say about it.

TIA,
JT

On 2010-10-28 17:51:06 -0400, riverman said:

On Oct 26, 4:29*am, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-10-25 14:45:19 -0400, riverman said:

"I'd be up for it."

Figures! *d;o)

The outfitter I'm talking with suggests Los Roques in Venezuela. *
Perhaps not as good, but it would be legal. *When would you be
available for a trip?

Dave

Over Christmas this year would work for me. I'm free from Dec 18 until
Jan 2. I think Roger could be armtwisted into coming, too.

--riverman

Oh, that would be super. Haven't seen Roger since the clave. d;o(
Sadly, I'll be recovering from hip replacement. I doubt I will be very
mobile until some time in mid-late January. I've given up on the Cuba
thing. It was a thought. Looked into it and too many "ifs". Thinking
about los Rogues in Venezuela, but a friend doesn't recommend it until
March-April.

Dave

JT wrote:
If others have had experience with the Sharkskin, I would like to here
what you have to say about it.

I have the Sharkskin steelhead taper in 7wt and I think it's
the best steelhead line I've ever fished. I use a 10' T&T XL
7wt which is pretty slow graphite by today's standards and I
can cast the Sharkskin for distance far easier than any other
line I've ever had on that rod. And it mends like a dream.

I highly recommend the steelhead version. When my 9wt musky
line wears out I will replace it with a Sharkskin.

--
Ken Fortenberry

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 12:14:12 -0700 (PDT), DaveS wrote:

On Oct 28, 8:21*am, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 07:39:30 -0400, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-10-28 01:35:02 -0400, " said:

*because I dropped it (and had to repair it with
a visegrip), and I lost the lock nut years ago. Sent it back recently.
$20 later it's like new. I feel like I'm ahead with Bernie and his
sons.

There are lots of good reels, and the really good ones are expensive.
Just make sure that you have an excellent drag and plenty of backing.
And you should have a backup rig.

I too have been happy with my Abels. *The one I use most (with my LT5)
I bought in 1995 or thereabouts. *I thought it was expensive at the
time, but it has excellent trouble-free service all these years.

My only backup rig would be a Sage XP 7 weight with a Lamson reel. *It
souds a little light but has served me well with big salmon and browns.
I'll have to check and make sure it holds enough backing.

The issue with bones isn't exactly "brute strength," it's the run and cast. *I'd
be more concerned with the ability to handle a screaming run than I would the
exact weight class of rod or reel, followed closely with the ability to cast a
fair piece of line into the wind (with a 7 or even a 6 - obviously a wispy 2
with a microreel won't cut it). *Now, if you plan on multi-species fishing
(permit, tarpon, marlin, etc.), you may well need a battery of rods, reels, and
terminal tackle, including some larger-weight gear (or tune your terminal tackle
to protect the gear, if, for example, you're after baby tarpon and get mom or
dad - not likely, but...). *Long story short, a 7 with which _you_ can handle
the casting duties, mated with a reel that will handle the run will be fine.
OTOH, an 8 that _you_ can't cast 20 feet is useless _to you_ as bonefish/flats
gear, as is a reel that either can't handle the run and/or takeup, or, beats the
highholy**** out of you when it does.

IAC, with bones, I put the run-handling slightly above the casting because it
won't help to be able to cast to 'em and then have them smoke the reel once you
hook up, but most rods can, even if with operator difficulty, cast at least far
enough. *And yet again, I'd suggest looking at a 'glass rod as a backup - you
could find a decent rod for under 200.00 (and if you roll yer own, probably well
under 100.00, no time value included). *As a starting point, look around for a
good used Lamiglas or similar, or hell, if you must, IIRC, Tom Morgan sells a 7
or 8 that might be a decent bonefishing rod (I don't know the specifics on it,
so ???). *At least it would be expensive...

One thing to keep in mind, ala the above - one thing with SW fishing that is
substantially different from fresh; the size of the "bait" often goes with the
size of the fish. *IOW, there is a wide variety of fish and size range therein
not found in most FW, and I've seen folks **** up trout (spec) class gear
messing around with things like cobia. *The cobia hookup being intentional -
they rigged up with a large fly that specs would have ignored, just as the cobia
would have ignored a small spec fly/lure/bait. *I've also seen folks manage to
land them on such, too, but they were very experienced and knew how to tend
their gear in such a situation.

HTH,
R





Dave- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For folk w/ a few rods etc . . .
What about using some hearvir steelhead set ups for this fishing?

For bones, rods, probably, reels, maybe, obviously depending on the exact setup.
Early on, though, it was all about the same gear.

(Cobia bones etc)

That's two _completely_ different quarry - while you _could_ use the same gear,
it's not likely you'll be fishing for both at one location - flats for bones,
deeper water around buoys, rigs, etc. for cobia (although I have seen 40-plus
pounders pulled out of what is called "The Back Bay" on the MS Gulf Coast), and
the cobia folks would be after are _much_ larger than the largest bonefish.
Plus, most folks don't FF for cobia, although it is done and can be a hoot and a
half. Of the 20-30 guys I normally fish with/around, only a coupla-few of us
_fly fish_ much (although many around the Gulf Coast use fly rods to
bream/"brim" fish, but use crickets, etc. - that's another topic, however) and
less so with cobia - it's more a novelty than a regularly-practiced method. I've
seen guys mess with them with light rods, but LDR 'em, not really expecting to
get them in the boat - to each their own, I suppose - and I've seen similar and
folks get lucky and get them close enough for the gaffer to get them, but again,
to each their own. For those that don't know, cobia are pretty good eating, but
AFAIK, bonefish not so much.

Opinions? How much backing?

For bones, you don't have enough...no, really, you don't...as much as an
appropriate reel will hold...and then, hope it is enough.

Any use for 2-handers?

With bones, not that I would use - I have no idea what others might try...with
cobia, esp. larger ones - ya got any three-handers...? With the wrong terminal
tackle and inexperience, you could destroy many commonly-used modern graphite
bonefishing setups trying to land an average-to-large-ish cobia...and if there
were so much as a nick on the rod, you likely would. I'd make damned sure I
could LDR, south of the flyline, if I needed to.

I
use a standard 8 weight for steelhead but I am fishing small rivers
and the "run" issue is "usually" linear.

If you enjoy "linear," hook up with a large bonefish...you'll likely get all the
"linear" you'll ever want...

(Sounds like I catch lots/not
true but above is what Ive experienced myself). In the next week or
two plans are to fish the SE Wa. Steelhead/Brown opening on a lower
Snake trib like the Tucannon. I hear rumblings about good Sockeye runs
hereabouts but no details. Anyone up to speed on Ore/Wash/NorCal
coastals?

Nope.

HTH,
R

Dave

On 2010-10-28 18:00:55 -0400, "JT" said:



wrote in message
...
On Oct 27, 10:14 am, D. LaCourse wrote:

What's your idea for a good bonefish rod/reel?

I use a 4-piece 8wt Sage Z-Axis tip action with a 9wt sharkskin line
and an Abel Super 8 reel. Works for me.


RW,

Have you used the sharkskin in a 5 weight doing NF of the Clearwater
type fishing? If so, what do you think and would you recommend it?

If others have had experience with the Sharkskin, I would like to here
what you have to say about it.

TIA,
JT


It's all I use on fresh water rigs (4, 5, 6, 7). I love the way it
casts, but to me its forte is mending. Very easy to mend while
nymphing or drifting a dry fly. Its floatability is also excellent.
Takes awhile to get used to the buzz of the line going through the
guides, but no biggy really. I highly recommend it, but its price can
scare ya! d;o)

Dave

On Oct 28, 3:46*pm, wrote:
SNIP

Thanx. I get it, Cobia/nix. But it sounds like a blast.
By linear I mean the places i usually have been steelheading are
fairly narrow streams, so its up or down mostly for runs, not much
"broken field running."

Dave

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 22:51:16 -0700 (PDT), DaveS wrote:

On Oct 28, 3:46*pm, wrote:
SNIP

Thanx. I get it, Cobia/nix. But it sounds like a blast.

Not exactly, "nix" on the cobia with a fly rod. Just know what you are
getting into and know that bonefishing and cobia fishing are not similar, other
than, obviously, both are SW fishing.

By linear I mean the places i usually have been steelheading are
fairly narrow streams, so its up or down mostly for runs, not much
"broken field running."

It depends on where you are bonefishing. Bonefishing is not limited to the
typical "fishing the flats" picture, ala magazines, brochures, etc. And
frankly, from a purely personal perspective, traveling all over to fish yet
another such locale isn't my cup of tea - one such place pretty much looks and
fishes (yep, I know some, even many, will disagree, but...) like another, but to
each their own. If I were advising someone who resides in the US, I'd say go to
the Keys at least 5-10 times first, then the Bahamas, and then, start to pick
your own.

IAC, in mangroves, over differing bottoms, coral areas, etc., it is different
than wide-open flats fishing. Granted, it is over-simplified, but about all one
need worry about on an open sandy flat is being spooled (or smoked) and
accidental/unintentional LDRs. And for the most part, the reel will be more
important than the rod insofar as if one cast the rod effectively, it'll likely
do. Whereas with the reel, it is not, as in many FW FFing situations, a mere
lineholder, and unless it is built to handle SW and SW environs, as well as
bonefishing in particular, it will require much more maintenance than it would
with FW usage. With something like cobia, it's a much different, much larger
quarry under completely different conditions. To me, it is bordering on not
actually "fly fishing," ala "fly fishing" for (large) marlin, etc. - heaving a
chicken wired to a grappling hook using tug hawser and winch lead for tippet, a
rod that looks like a VHF antenna taken from Paul Allen's yacht and a reel that
could windlass up its anchor ain't, IMO, "fly fishing" - YMMV.

TC,
R
Dave

On Oct 28, 4:00*pm, "JT" wrote:
wrote in message

...

On Oct 27, 10:14 am, D. LaCourse wrote:

What's your idea for a good bonefish rod/reel?

I use a 4-piece 8wt Sage Z-Axis tip action with a 9wt sharkskin line
and an Abel Super 8 reel. Works for me.

RW,

Have you used the sharkskin in a 5 weight doing NF of the Clearwater type
fishing? If so, what do you think and would you recommend it?

If others have had experience with the Sharkskin, I would like to here what
you have to say about it.

TIA,
JT

I've only used sharkskin on my 8wt and 12wt. If you do a lot of
stripping (which you do in sal****er) it's important to use a glove or
tape on your fingers. The line will rip your skin.

I had an asshole guide in Mexico who claimed that the noise the line
made was spooking fish. What bull****. It was just an excuse for not
getting me into many fish.