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Flyline/Leader Connection Question



 
 
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  #31  
Old June 17th, 2004, 03:58 PM
Wolfgang
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question


"Russell" wrote in message
...
Wolfgang wrote:
"rw" wrote in message
m...


...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through

the
guides,



Leader link

I like Leader Links as well, but I have had them break before. I've

only
had them break on one side to I didn't lose my leader or fly but it

did
require me to replace the Leader Link.


We've seen several reports of breakage here over the last few years.
Like you, I've had one break on one side, but never completely. I
fished the half broken one for several weeks before replacing it. I
don't remember for sure, but I suspect this one was very old. I've
got three or four reels strung up with various lines for my 7 wt. All
of the lines and leader links on these are at least ten years old. No
problems.

Wolfgang


  #32  
Old June 17th, 2004, 04:03 PM
slenon
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question

http://www.flyanglersonline.com/

SA has a new L2L system on the market. I will be part of a field test
group. If you're interested, contact me offlist.

--
Stev Lenon 91B20 '68-'69
Drowning flies to Dark Star

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/stevglo/i...age92kword.htm



  #33  
Old June 17th, 2004, 04:07 PM
Padishar Creel
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question

I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link. I think Ernie
Harrison uses them and I found this article that seemed pretty informative:

http://www.hotspotfishing.com/public...s/fish-254.asp

Chris 'padishar creel' Fanning


"Wolfgang" wrote in message
...

"rw" wrote in message
m...

...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides,


Leader link

presents the least possible wind resistance,


Leader link.

turns over the leader,


Leader link.

and lands quietly on the water.


Leader link.

If I want to change leaders...


Leader link.

Wolfgang
some debates, while easy enough to follow, are nevertheless impossible to
understand.




  #34  
Old June 17th, 2004, 04:11 PM
Wolfgang
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question


"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link.


Try it. You'll like it.

Wolfgang


  #35  
Old June 17th, 2004, 04:16 PM
rw
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question

Padishar Creel wrote:
I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link. I think Ernie
Harrison uses them and I found this article that seemed pretty informative:


I use them, too, and I think they work well, but I'm not dogmatic about
them. A nail knot works just as well. A needle knot is even better.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #36  
Old June 17th, 2004, 04:23 PM
Conan the Librarian
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question

Wolfgang wrote:

["no-knot" eyelets]

Don't know about any formal tests done with them, but there are a
several problems. In the first place, they are a bit of a pain in the
ass to get into the end of the fly line. They are made of
steel.....that makes them heavy. As small as they are, they will sink
the end of the fly line. You still have to knot the leader to the
eye. This necessarily means the leader is tied to a surface
perpendicular to its own length.....a more or less perfect hinge.
Being made of steel, they WILL rust. This results in a pitted surface
that saws through the leader knot pretty efficiently as it hinges.
They rely on barbs, much like those on hooks, to remain fastened to
the line. The barbs have fairly sharp edges which eventually cut the
line.

I've tried them myself and know a number of others who have also. I
don't know anyone who has used them for long.


I remember when I first started flyfishing back in the early 80's, I
tried them thinking that it would be nice to be able to avoid tying
nailknots, etc. (funny how things never really change). They were
horrible. Worst of all was the hinging you describe above, as the knot
would swivel at the tie-point with each false cast. And I don't know if
it was just my lack of knot-tying skills, but I remember it simply being
a pain to knot the leader to the eye.

When I picked up the sport again I found a few of them sitting at
the bottom of a box with my old tackle. Even twenty years later the
image of trying to use the things was fresh.

Since getting back into it again, I mostly played around with
nailknots and loop-to-loop connections, but after reading various
threads about leader links, I finally decided to give them a try. And
frankly, I haven't had any problems with them whatsoever, as long as I
make sure to test the knots for slippage after they are inserted in the
links. I assume they have a somewhat limited life and could distort or
crack over time, but it's easy enough to replace them every so often to
avoid that.

I know it's not considered the "proper" connection by some, but
aside from aesthetics, I can't really think of any reason not to use
them. I'll use a nailknot for attaching backing to line, but now I
rarely bother with it for line to leader connections.


Chuck Vance (just call me lazy)


  #37  
Old June 17th, 2004, 05:04 PM
Willi
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question



Charlie Wilson wrote:

"Ken Fortenberry" wrote:

I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.


I agree. I have never had a nail knot fail, and properly tied, you
won't even feel it going through the guides.
On *most* new fly lines, I use a nail knot to tie on a butt section
of red Amnesia mono (I think it's about 25 lb test). I use a barrel knot to
tie the leader to the Amnesia; so whenever I need to tie on a new leader,
the butt section (and not the fly line) loses a half inch.



That's what I do too (except for the red Amnesia). The butts section
lasts at least a season even with alot of fishing.

Willi


  #38  
Old June 17th, 2004, 06:34 PM
Svend Tang-Petersen
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question




Granted Skip is talking about a 4 weight and the braided loop is probably
fine for that application, personally not my preference.

If you are fishing for pike, steelhead, salmon, large species, I would
suggest a nail knot connection... I know of a couple guys that fish pike
allot and they went away from the braided loop after having pike jerk the
loop off the fly line.

I tried the braided loop when they came out and found the end of a floating
line will sink. ymmv.

JT


There are two kinds of materials used for braids. The one commonly sold will
sink, but there's also a
floating version.

  #39  
Old June 17th, 2004, 07:07 PM
Jeff Taylor
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question


"Svend Tang-Petersen" wrote in message
...



Granted Skip is talking about a 4 weight and the braided loop is

probably
fine for that application, personally not my preference.

If you are fishing for pike, steelhead, salmon, large species, I would
suggest a nail knot connection... I know of a couple guys that fish pike
allot and they went away from the braided loop after having pike jerk

the
loop off the fly line.

I tried the braided loop when they came out and found the end of a

floating
line will sink. ymmv.

JT


There are two kinds of materials used for braids. The one commonly sold

will
sink, but there's also a
floating version.


The only braided loops that I have used are the braided loops that came with
the Cortland fly lines I have used. Last year I purchased a floating 444
(peach, my favorite) and I can't remember if it came with a loop or not, so
I don't know if they still send the loops with their lines? However, the
floating Lazer Lines that I bought in the previous years had them and I had
trouble with the tip of my Lazers sinking... I figured, Cortland would send
the floating version with a floating line... Do you know if the loops sent
with a floating Cortland Series fly line are the floating version?

I must have a 1/2 dozen of them in my leader pouch, not sure why I have hung
on to them?

JT



  #40  
Old June 17th, 2004, 07:13 PM
Sierra fisher
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Default Flyline/Leader Connection Question

All of the sal****er fishermen that I have had contact with use the braided
loop with two nail knots close together towards the top of the braid. The
braid below the lowest knot will hold like a chinese finger puzzle. This is
important in lines that do not crush. Most trout lines are made using a
woven core that is hollow and wil crush when a knot is drawn tight. the
woven core does a great job of holding the plastic /PVC in place. Many
sal****er lines are now made with a woven core that is not hollow or a mono
solid core that will not crush. Neither is great at holding the plastic/PVC
in place. IF you use a single nail knot and a mono loop, there is the
possiblility that a large fish will just strip off all of the plastic/PVC
below the knot.

--


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"Skip Summer" wrote in message
om...
Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip



 




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