Trailer lights shorting out constantly

you may have a bare wire somewhere
wrote in message
...
I all ways un hook the elec. harness when i take the straps off the the
boat be for lunching when i load the boat it's the last thing i do to
get ready for the road this way every ting is drip dry haven't had any
probs. in ten years salt & fresh water.

ZZ

I never disconnect my lights when I back down. I raised my lights above the
water. My side marker lights may see water occasionally depending on the
launch and water level. I rewired my trailer using a good heavy duty marine
16 gauge wire. I purchased a waterproof side marker lights and 2 inch
sealed lights from NAPA. To mount the tail lights, I had 1 1/4 pipe bent
and welded to the shape of my boat. I then had the pipe welded to a bracket
that was bolted onto my trailer using stainless steel bolts. Where the pipe
would touch the boat I slid 1 1/2 PVC pipe over the pipe to act as a roller.
On the top of each pipe, I mounted a bolt on metal plate with a opening to
hold the light. The sealed lights are held in by a rubber grommet. The
wires are ran through the pipe. At the top of the pipe I drilled a small
hole and installed a small rubber grommet large enough for the wires to
pass. All connections to lights are made by soldering and each connection is
shrink wrapped to seal out moist and corrosion. I also welded a small
stainless steel bolt on the plate to be used as a grounding lug. I screw
one down then the ground wire lug then the other nut. I then finish out the
bolt with a lock washer and another nut. All bolts are stainless steel.

This setup cost me a few dollars initially but It has been on my boat
trailer now for 8 years with no problems. The sealed tail lamps are the
same ones that are on the back of 18 wheeler trailers. To prevent the wires
from coming loose and pinching between the springs, I mounted a 1/4 PVC pipe
as a channel for the wires.
I drilled large holes in the pipe so water does not collect in it.

Sarge

I bought a set of LED lights. Everything is sealed. These have been on the
boat for about a year and no problems. Both fresh and salt launching. I
got this set from BPS for about $37 + shipping. Cost me $24 at Wal-mart for
a set of regular trailer lights this week for the boat I am selling.
Bill

"licker" wrote in message
...
I never disconnect my lights when I back down. I raised my lights above
the
water. My side marker lights may see water occasionally depending on the
launch and water level. I rewired my trailer using a good heavy duty
marine
16 gauge wire. I purchased a waterproof side marker lights and 2 inch
sealed lights from NAPA. To mount the tail lights, I had 1 1/4 pipe bent
and welded to the shape of my boat. I then had the pipe welded to a
bracket
that was bolted onto my trailer using stainless steel bolts. Where the
pipe
would touch the boat I slid 1 1/2 PVC pipe over the pipe to act as a
roller.
On the top of each pipe, I mounted a bolt on metal plate with a opening to
hold the light. The sealed lights are held in by a rubber grommet. The
wires are ran through the pipe. At the top of the pipe I drilled a small
hole and installed a small rubber grommet large enough for the wires to
pass. All connections to lights are made by soldering and each connection
is
shrink wrapped to seal out moist and corrosion. I also welded a small
stainless steel bolt on the plate to be used as a grounding lug. I screw
one down then the ground wire lug then the other nut. I then finish out
the
bolt with a lock washer and another nut. All bolts are stainless steel.

This setup cost me a few dollars initially but It has been on my boat
trailer now for 8 years with no problems. The sealed tail lamps are the
same ones that are on the back of 18 wheeler trailers. To prevent the
wires
from coming loose and pinching between the springs, I mounted a 1/4 PVC
pipe
as a channel for the wires.
I drilled large holes in the pipe so water does not collect in it.

Sarge