Lowrance Electronics

I am about to purchase a Lowrance LMS 522C GPS/Fishfinder. Looking for
some pros/cons to mounting the transducer on the transom vs a thru
hull mount. Drilling holes through the hull may be the way to go, but
not without accelerating the heart rate.

Matt

On Apr 6, 8:49 am, "matt" wrote:
I am about to purchase a Lowrance LMS 522C GPS/Fishfinder. Looking for
some pros/cons to mounting the transducer on the transom vs a thru
hull mount. Drilling holes through the hull may be the way to go, but
not without accelerating the heart rate.

Matt


I am a Garmin dealer, with not a whole lot of experience doing
this..... but, Garmin says that either mounting method is reliable if
your hull isn't too thick. I chose to mount Transom to try to avoid
interferance.... however you do have to consider Prop feedback.

What sort of boat are you mounting to?

They tell me that boats with an inboard may need a little more padding
to avoid vibration.... but I'm not so sure. I have been on many a
shaky outboards. Once you commit to the transom mount... plan it out
carfully, read all the instructions and you can drill that hole with
confidence.

The heart palpatations go away after that first drill bit pokes
through... theres no turning back!

However, Through the hull has many advantages over transom
mounting.... many!

Fewer holes is one, but there is no transducer to watch (or wreck) for
when trailering your boat. In hull won't corode up in sal****er. Also
the transducer won't come loose and "flip" up at an odd angle.

Transom does give you a clearer signal though... so there many pros
and cons.... but the better models aren't really affected or stifled
much by the hull.

On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Sprattoo" wrote:
I am a Garmin dealer, with not a whole lot of experience doing
this..... but, Garmin says that either mounting method is reliable if
your hull isn't too thick. I chose to mount Transom to try to avoid
interferance.... however you do have to consider Prop feedback.

What sort of boat are you mounting to?

They tell me that boats with an inboard may need a little more padding
to avoid vibration.... but I'm not so sure. I have been on many a
shaky outboards. Once you commit to the transom mount... plan it out
carfully, read all the instructions and you can drill that hole with
confidence.

The heart palpatations go away after that first drill bit pokes
through... theres no turning back!

However, Through the hull has many advantages over transom
mounting.... many!

Fewer holes is one, but there is no transducer to watch (or wreck) for
when trailering your boat. In hull won't corode up in sal****er. Also
the transducer won't come loose and "flip" up at an odd angle.

Transom does give you a clearer signal though... so there many pros
and cons.... but the better models aren't really affected or stifled
much by the hull.

I am mounting to a Sea Ray 215 EC. I purchased the unit with the
transom mount, so I will be drilling a 1" hole in the transom. Read
all of the instructions, a few times. Sounds like the only thing I
really need to watch out for is routing the cable so it does not pick
up any interference from existing wiring. Not really sure how much
flexibility I am going to have with the routing. None of this rigging
is going to happen until it stops snowing here in Michigan.

Matt

On Apr 6, 7:49 am, "matt" wrote:
I am about to purchase a Lowrance LMS 522C GPS/Fishfinder. Looking for
some pros/cons to mounting the transducer on the transom vs a thru
hull mount. Drilling holes through the hull may be the way to go, but
not without accelerating the heart rate.

Matt

You should call Lowrance headquarters here in Tulsa. They are great
people, and will gladly help you make an informed decision. If you
are anywhere near Tulsa, drop by the place and they will show you more
than you could ever imagine.

"matt" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 6, 6:00 pm, "Sprattoo" wrote:
I am a Garmin dealer, with not a whole lot of experience doing
this..... but, Garmin says that either mounting method is reliable if
your hull isn't too thick. I chose to mount Transom to try to avoid
interferance.... however you do have to consider Prop feedback.

What sort of boat are you mounting to?

They tell me that boats with an inboard may need a little more padding
to avoid vibration.... but I'm not so sure. I have been on many a
shaky outboards. Once you commit to the transom mount... plan it out
carfully, read all the instructions and you can drill that hole with
confidence.

The heart palpatations go away after that first drill bit pokes
through... theres no turning back!

However, Through the hull has many advantages over transom
mounting.... many!

Fewer holes is one, but there is no transducer to watch (or wreck) for
when trailering your boat. In hull won't corode up in sal****er. Also
the transducer won't come loose and "flip" up at an odd angle.

Transom does give you a clearer signal though... so there many pros
and cons.... but the better models aren't really affected or stifled
much by the hull.

I am mounting to a Sea Ray 215 EC. I purchased the unit with the
transom mount, so I will be drilling a 1" hole in the transom. Read
all of the instructions, a few times. Sounds like the only thing I
really need to watch out for is routing the cable so it does not pick
up any interference from existing wiring. Not really sure how much
flexibility I am going to have with the routing. None of this rigging
is going to happen until it stops snowing here in Michigan.

Matt

Matt, I have the 522C IGPS and it seems like a good unit so far. I think
your Sea Ray has a fiberglass hull. I had a WebbCraft years ago with an I/O
and just epoxied the transducer to the hull just forward of the engine. You
need to find a place where the hull is just one layer, as in, no sub-floor.
A thru-hull transducer will shoot through the fiberglass hull with no
problems and mine never lost the bottom even at high speeds.

On the transom mount transducer, why do you have to drill a 1" hole? I have
mine mounted to an aluminum boat and just used two self-drilling metal
screws. you could do the same, but I'd drill small pilot holes and regular
metal screws. Put a dub of silicone sealer on each screw/hole.