Hey Rodmaker

They might make good spinnerbait, topwater, or maybe jerkbait rods (although
I'd go with a slower rod for these too, just my opinion). Everyone has their
preference, for cranking I prefer rods with a slower tip, more parabolic
action. Basically if you bend the rod, it flexes more to the middle, as
opposed to a faster tip rod that has maybe 20-30% tip and the rest backbone.
I prefer fast action rods for lures like worms, tubes, super flukes, etc. I
use crankbait rods for fast moving lures like cranks, jerks, spinnerbaits,
etc.

The CBRs run a little less than the IMX rods, but they are graphite. Check
eBay for deals. You can get them for at least $50 off retail. If you want
CBR rods I recommend the 783 6'6, and the 845 7' , very versatile rods.
John


"go-bassn" wrote in message
...
Hey thanks for the advice John. I have much to learn about crankin, & I
must learn it all asap. What kind of tip do you recommend, I thought fast
was the way to go. How much are the CBR's? Oh, is there a practical use
for my 2 6-footers? Thanks again in advance.

Warren
--
http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com http://www.secretweaponlures.com
http://warrenwolk.com/ http://www.tri-statebassmasters.com/

"John M" wrote in message
. net...
Warren,
If you need crankin rods, I'd consider selling these off and going with
a
CBR series crankbait rod from loomis. The IMX rods are fast action,
faster
recovery and the crankbait series (although still graphite) will give
you
a
more parabolic action and slower recovery. Plus you can jump up to 6'6
or
7'
for crankin. I have a 781, 783, 845, and 847 so let me know if you need
specifics on any of these. If you keep them, good luck they are fine
rods
anyway.
John

"go-bassn" wrote in message
...
I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6
footers,
a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great
cranking
rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis'
&
the
price was less than 50% SRP.

Warren

wrote in message
.net...
The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've
always
known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept
system
isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim
to
it.
The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
selection
isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and
casts
the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for
performance,
and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod
finish,
guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and
fish
fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy
with.
A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a
lifetime
if
you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or
"high
stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think,
but
there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take
the
abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this,
in
inches
from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides
from
the
tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG
guides,
if
you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or
smaller.
These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for
the
money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the
first
guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different
things
until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than
you
build it that way.
Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an
off
the
rack rod, because you've made no compromises.