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#1
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Beads on leader
I read in the article about Wooly Buggers about sliding beads or cones onto
the leader to weight the line, so you can fish a fly at different depths. How well does this work, as compared to using a beadhead fly? Does it affect casting, or chafing of the leader? --riverman |
#2
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Beads on leader
"riverman" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... I read in the article about Wooly Buggers about sliding beads or cones onto the leader to weight the line, so you can fish a fly at different depths. How well does this work, as compared to using a beadhead fly? Does it affect casting, or chafing of the leader? --riverman It does affect casting quite a lot, and the loose beads can cause other problems. Split shot is better, or use the beads with a "float stopper". This is a small silicone rubber bead, which is threaded onto the line ( bobber stopper), the bead is threaded, and then the fly is tied on. The stopper is then pushed down to hold the bead against the hook. This also works very well for tube flies by the way. The "float stoppers" are available in most tackle shops. You can se a picture here; http://www.tackleshop.co.uk/ProductD...egoryID/155/v/ You are better served with the right weighted flies to start with though. TL MC |
#3
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Beads on leader
"riverman" wrote in
: I read in the article about Wooly Buggers about sliding beads or cones onto the leader to weight the line, so you can fish a fly at different depths. How well does this work, as compared to using a beadhead fly? Does it affect casting, or chafing of the leader? --riverman I've done it, mostly using shape-able weight putty to "glue" the bead down over the hook eye. This eliminates the bead sliding around, but there are some problems with line chafing. Scott |
#4
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Beads on leader
"riverman" wrote in message
... I read in the article about Wooly Buggers about sliding beads or cones onto the leader to weight the line, so you can fish a fly at different depths. How well does this work, as compared to using a beadhead fly? Does it affect casting, or chafing of the leader? If you want to do that, get out your baitcaster and peg a 3/8 -1/2 oz. slip sinker to the line using a rubber band or a tooth pick like the bass fishers do. |
#5
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Beads on leader--more questions
"Hooked" wrote in message ... "riverman" wrote in message ... I read in the article about Wooly Buggers about sliding beads or cones onto the leader to weight the line, so you can fish a fly at different depths. How well does this work, as compared to using a beadhead fly? Does it affect casting, or chafing of the leader? If you want to do that, get out your baitcaster and peg a 3/8 -1/2 oz. slip sinker to the line using a rubber band or a tooth pick like the bass fishers do. Thats the word I've been getting from other folks, too, Hooked. Sliding beads cause trouble. The other problem I have been finding (with beadheads as well as weighted leaders) is that I can't seem to cast worth s**t! The leader won't turn over, and the cast seems to have lots of 'noisy waves' in it, caused by the extra wiggling of the rod tip on my backcast when the heavy fly hits the end of the backcast. How do folks modify their casts to account for the extra weight? Is there some way to 'absorb' and even out the loading up of the backcast? --riverman |
#6
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Beads on leader--more questions
"riverman" schrieb im Newsbeitrag ... SNIP The other problem I have been finding (with beadheads as well as weighted leaders) is that I can't seem to cast worth s**t! The leader won't turn over, and the cast seems to have lots of 'noisy waves' in it, caused by the extra wiggling of the rod tip on my backcast when the heavy fly hits the end of the backcast. How do folks modify their casts to account for the extra weight? Is there some way to 'absorb' and even out the loading up of the backcast? --riverman The only real answer to that, is to use heavier lines ( heads). Beyond a certain point, casting any appreciable weight any distance with a fly-line becomes more or less impossible. The fly-line is simply not heavy enough to carry it. Leraning to "drift" will cushion the problem somewhat, but not completely solve it. For "drifting" see here; http://www.sexyloops.com/articles/drifting.shtml Here is a rough table of the fly-sizes you can expect to cast "normally" with various lines. Much over the sizes given for any line, and it just will not work. The larger the number ( up to size 1/0) the smaller the hook. Above 1/0 the larger the number, the larger the hook. Line Weight Fly size 3 28 -12 4 up to 10 5 up to 8 6 up to 6 7 up to 4 8 12 - 1/0 9 up to 2/0 10 up to 3/0 11 up to 4/0 12 up to 6/0 There is a lot of overlap, and heavy ( weighted) or bulky flies will require a heavier line than indicated in the table. There is a lot of nonsense talked about "weightless" flies etc. Here again, there is no such animal. The larger the fly the heavier it is. Bulky flies also have more air resistance and need heavier lines to carry them. Double hauling will increase the weight of fly which can be carried, as it generates more line speed. A shooting head will carry the most weight in any given range. There are special flies and techniques ( sayonara sling for instance) which will allow you to cast heavy flies, but you would need to learn the technique first, and this is not easy. What are you using now? TL MC |
#7
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Beads on leader--more questions
On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 09:30:17 +0100, "riverman"
wrote: How do folks modify their casts to account for the extra weight? Is there some way to 'absorb' and even out the loading up of the backcast? Here's instructions on an alternative to the 'lob cast' (which is what I normally use) by a former roff poster: http://tinyurl.com/38htw -- Charlie... |
#8
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Beads on leader--more questions
"Mike Connor" wrote in message ... The only real answer to that, is to use heavier lines ( heads). Beyond a certain point, casting any appreciable weight any distance with a fly-line becomes more or less impossible. The fly-line is simply not heavy enough to carry it. Leraning to "drift" will cushion the problem somewhat, but not completely solve it. For "drifting" see here; http://www.sexyloops.com/articles/drifting.shtml Here is a rough table of the fly-sizes you can expect to cast "normally" with various lines. Much over the sizes given for any line, and it just will not work. The larger the number ( up to size 1/0) the smaller the hook. Above 1/0 the larger the number, the larger the hook. Line Weight Fly size 3 28 -12 4 up to 10 5 up to 8 6 up to 6 7 up to 4 8 12 - 1/0 9 up to 2/0 10 up to 3/0 11 up to 4/0 12 up to 6/0 There is a lot of overlap, and heavy ( weighted) or bulky flies will require a heavier line than indicated in the table. There is a lot of nonsense talked about "weightless" flies etc. Here again, there is no such animal. The larger the fly the heavier it is. Bulky flies also have more air resistance and need heavier lines to carry them. Double hauling will increase the weight of fly which can be carried, as it generates more line speed. A shooting head will carry the most weight in any given range. There are special flies and techniques ( sayonara sling for instance) which will allow you to cast heavy flies, but you would need to learn the technique first, and this is not easy. What are you using now? (The following are best-guesses) On my 4 wt rod, I use SA 5wt airflo with 5x or 6x tapered leader, and I also use a SA 5wt sinktip. On my 6/7 wt rod, I use SA 8wt airflo with 3x or 4x tapered leader, and also a RIO 7wt intermediate sinking line. I find that I have my worst trouble casting #12 beadhead WBs on either rod. I can see why, from your chart. I think my next overhaul will be to tap into the knowledge of someone more experienced and 'tuned' the line, leader and tippet for each rod. I'd want to have a full floating line setup, a sinktip set up and a full sink setup each, as well as a shooting head for the 8wt. As it is, I sort of 'evolved' the rigging I have now, and I can tell that its not really tuned for the best casting in most conditions. Every now and then, it all seems to come together (fly size, length of tippet, leader weight) and the rod casts and turns over like a dream at almost any distance. But usually, there's only a narrow range of 'optimum' distance and performance, and outside of that, I can tell that something's just not right. --riverman |
#9
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Beads on leader--more questions
SNIP What are you using now? (The following are best-guesses) On my 4 wt rod, I use SA 5wt airflo with 5x or 6x tapered leader, and I also use a SA 5wt sinktip. On my 6/7 wt rod, I use SA 8wt airflo with 3x or 4x tapered leader, and also a RIO 7wt intermediate sinking line. I find that I have my worst trouble casting #12 beadhead WBs on either rod. I can see why, from your chart. I think my next overhaul will be to tap into the knowledge of someone more experienced and 'tuned' the line, leader and tippet for each rod. I'd want to have a full floating line setup, a sinktip set up and a full sink setup each, as well as a shooting head for the 8wt. As it is, I sort of 'evolved' the rigging I have now, and I can tell that its not really tuned for the best casting in most conditions. Every now and then, it all seems to come together (fly size, length of tippet, leader weight) and the rod casts and turns over like a dream at almost any distance. But usually, there's only a narrow range of 'optimum' distance and performance, and outside of that, I can tell that something's just not right. --riverman SA? You mean Scientific anglers? Or Airflo? Whatever, it does not really matter. Learning to drift will help a great deal. I see Dan Gracia says the same thing in the article that Charlie referred to. If you use a #10 or #11 weight ( or even a #12) head on the #8 it should solve most of your problems. You could also use an #8 or #9 head on the 6/7 wt. The heads can be any length really, but most prefer them around thirty feet. This may help you, http://www.ukswff.co.uk/mconner.htm http://www.ukswff.co.uk/mason.htm I have a lot more info on this if you want. But we had better take it to e-mail. It is not difficult to set these up yourself. TL MC |
#10
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Beads on leader--more questions
"Mike Connor" wrote in message ... SA? You mean Scientific anglers? Or Airflo? Whatever, it does not really matter. See how much I know?? grin It's Scientific Anglers, I think the line is called 'aircell' or 'microcell' or something. Its an ugly light green, WF taper floating line. Not specialized, and not too expensive. Truth it, it has horrible memory and lays on the water in little wavy curls. I don't see it on the SA website, but its in a SA catalogue I have from last year. The way they market fly lines these days, its probably just so last year that they don't even carry it anymore. I'm happy to replace it with a higher quality (and prettier) line, once I learn more about what I want. --riverman |
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