Alaska Trips by Highway

This started as reply to Jeff's post from yesterday, moved it to a new post
as it got lengthy

I did a family/fishing trip several years ago and didn't find it hard to get
into fishing at all. Not sure what the barometer is, but with a little
research, you can find fish VERY EASILY. Yes, the ultimate guided trips
via the big lodges around Lake Iliamna, Lake Clark Preserve, and Katmai
preserves will be the best you can buy, but the option that Willi, Chas, RW
put together, or even a road trip are very feasible.

We wondered around a good part of the road system in Alaska, combining it
with a trip into Glacier Bay (part of the "Inner Passage"). With the
research in hand I plotted out several areas to fish including Juneau,
Glacier Bay, Cook Inlet feeders, Denali Highway, Richardson Highway, and
others. We definetly did much more sightseeing than fishing as my wife does
not fish, but I caught several varieties of fish including silvers, dolly
varden, large Rainbows, and grayling on the side. Skipped on the
opportunity for King Salmon as they do attract a crowd, but all areas I
fished were not populated with other fisherman at all.

If I go back just for fishing I would spend a little extra and hit the inner
passage more, up to Valdez (major stop in Yukatat). This would require use
of the ferry system and a few flights to get into the more inaccessible
locations, but I'd be looking more for the steelhead/giant rainbow fare,
with whatever salmon, trout, etc mixed in along the way.

One thing I would also check would be the Wrangell Mountain Area. If memory
serves they were expanding the road system in the Wrangell Mountain National
Park so may be some new opportunities there. Any area where they have put
in new roads I would think would offer more accessible fishing.

The float trip would be cool too, so if that worked out, to take it along
with a bunch of fellow Roffians, I would jump on that also,

Here is a quick link you could use used to start planning a road trip:
http://www.bellsalaska.com/denalihy.html

The Alaskan Milepost had much more information (a publication on all of the
roads and stops along the way). It a great detailed reference of the roads
system and all of the accommodations, eateries, spots for fishing, and
really every thing along the way. This link gives you a good summary of
what the milepost is about, but you need to purchase the publication to get
all of the detail.

http://www.themilepost.com/

There are several other books I also used for research, one specifically for
fishing by highway in Alaska, a few travel guides to find accommodations
and eateries. I can dig out more detail on the books and such if anyone is
interested.

Another good point for the road trip would be for those of us that may need
to include the family on the trip to justify the fishing...uh I mean would
like to get some fishing in while they explore Alaska with their families.
Could offer a few suggestion on the tour side of things also, but for me the
highlights were

- Whale watching in Glacier Bay (saw the largest friggin grizzly bear I
would ever want to see, from the security of the boat) along with Glaciers,
seals, Eagles and other birds, and tons of other wildlife.
- Glacier Bay Lodge...got a good deal on accommodation, not sure what they
are now, but you can walk to incredible wildlife viewing along the water,
and caught a run of fish (think they were sea run Dollies) that was
incredible.
- the city of Juneau - historic Alaska and a very interesting town. Access
to local fishing via roads in town.
- Glacier Landing on Denali (aka Mt McKinley) - this was the THE highlight
worth the $50 per person - make sure to bring the camera.
- Stay in Talkeetna - the Alaskan town you picture in your mind.
- Denali National Park - Tour into the park was an ultimate experience.
- Denali highway - Just a great way to see Alaska by car. Plan a stop where
you can as the gravel road can wear on you after a while.
- Seward - Wildlife/Whale tour was good (better in Glacier Bay). Got to see
a few Eagles dive on a run of Silvers.

Plan as much time as you can - so many places to see and fish. We took 2
weeks and it was not enough. An alternative would be to travel in pieces,
don't try to see it all the first time in.

The Finn

Some great Info Mike thanks for posting

"Mike" wrote in news:1138675873.451638.253510
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Some great Info Mike thanks for posting



....I'm coming into this late, but FWIW, along with the Milepost, a great
book (in paperback) titled: Alaska Highway..A Guide to the Alcan & other
wilderness roads of the north. Author: Tricia Brown, Publisher: Fulcrum
Publishing. It includes ton of info, including places to fish along the
highway systems. I purchased this one along with the Milepost in
anticipation of making that trip about 3 yrs ago. Ain't given up on it yet.

Frank Sr.
....Oregon's John Day river this year, maybe the Alcan next year.

Frank Church wrote in
9.11:

It includes ton of info, including
places to fish along the highway systems. I purchased this one along
with the Milepost in anticipation of making that trip about 3 yrs ago.
Ain't given up on it yet.

....I was just reminded about a funny incident that happened on the Yukon
river in the Yukon Territories. In 1970 immediately after my retirement
from the USAF in Portland, Or. I bundled all my stuff, including my then
14 yr old son into a 1968 Chevy Impala and we headed north to Alaska,
with Eagle River the destination. We slept along the roadside in a little
2 man tent each night and had a great time. We came upon the Yukon river
and it looked really fishy so I parked the Impala and got out my spinning
rod (this was pre-flyfishing) First cast with a Red Devil spoon I hooked
a nice size pike. Got him to shore and told my son to get the camera.
While waiting for that to happen this danged pike was flipping and
flopping all over the place. The camera was readied and I held up the
fish for the picture, with one big flop this guy flew out of my hands,
hit the bank and flopped his way back into the river. #1 son thought that
was pretty funny, and after awhile so did I. No picture but the memory
still remains.

Frank Sr.
...what would Miss Manners say about ing your own post:

Kudos Mike for a great post. Been there done that and everything you said
was right on! Just a few add-ons thoughts:

To and from Alaska fly fishing while driving through British Columbia and
Yukon Territory is great also and the Kassiar Highway is a great way to get
up there and return. The Skeena and Babine are truly hallowed waters to
cross but there are many others in Caribou and the Lakes regions. Driving up
we saw 9 bears one day.

Although Alaska is not nearly highway-accessible everywhere, there are
enough black-topped roads to allow an RV to get plenty of fishing access
with minimal gravel road access. Except for gravel roads between villages, a
four wheel drive is highly recommended for non paved road travel. It's a
sinking, anxious feeling to be 28 miles from pavement, by your self and be
stuck.

We had a 5th wheel which IMHO is not the best rig for Alaska Highway
fishing. A toad following a class A or class C or a travel trailer with the
tow vehicle set up right all would have been better. The 4 wheel drive toad
or tow vehicle should have a camper shell. Under the boat rack fits a ATV,
25 hp motor, chain saw, gas, water, shovel, tackle, etc. Locals often pull
their boat through the tundra to lakes for fishing that maybe sees no more
than 2-3 fishermen on it per summer.

In Alaska like most places the further from the pavement the better the
fishing. I cannot believe how many people we met and heard about who would
drive so far and only bring an ultralite spinning outfit. These guys would
pull off the pavement, get out their rod, make 3-4 casts using roostertails,
catch nothing, get back in their vehicle and say they had gone fishing in
Alaska! In May southwest of Tok, I pulled off at the Tok river which flowed
in a big culvert under the highway, watched a guy cast and counted 3
spinning baits hung up in the overhead electrical lines. Returning in
September, I stopped and counted 38 baits and lures hung up in the lines!

Alaska does a shoddy, inconsistent job of stocking highway water bodies. The
Nancy Lakes, Tanglewood Lakes and Fort Wainwright-Eilson AFB plus the
Copper, Chilikoot, Salmon (near Hyder) and Tanana river all had good
drive-in and walk-in spots but there are more. I'd avoid the combat fishing
on the Russian/Kenai. It's not worth the hassle. Fly outs under 30 minutes
are not necessary and vary in quality but can be obtained without
reservations in many places and cost locals $65-75 while lower 48 folks pay
$125-175.

Alaska is a poor but very beautiful state. Cruise passengers and fly-in
lodge patrons my not see the seedy side of Alaska you will highway fly
fishing. The melted snow often revealing Tyvec house siding, blue tarp
roofs and assorted outside debris will make the trip realistic as well as
answers to the question "When did you last see a BLANK in Alaska?" where
BLANK = a cop, a Game Warden, a highway sign, a highway sign that had not
been shot, and so on. My advice is to take enough time to enjoy the
experience. Be prepared with due diligence. The locals make their
livelihood selling goods and services to the lower 48 passing through. You
will have lots of memories - make most of them good ones!

Good luck!
John

PS: Drive alertly - avoid the frost heaves!

"Mike Makela" ten.tsacmoc@alekamm wrote in message
...
This started as reply to Jeff's post from yesterday, moved it to a new
post as it got lengthy
snipped for brevity

"Frank Church" wrote in message
9.11...
"Mike" wrote in news:1138675873.451638.253510

...I'm coming into this late, but FWIW, along with the Milepost, a great
book (in paperback) titled: Alaska Highway..A Guide to the Alcan & other
wilderness roads of the north. Author: Tricia Brown, Publisher: Fulcrum
Publishing. It includes ton of info, including places to fish along the
highway systems. I purchased this one along with the Milepost in
anticipation of making that trip about 3 yrs ago. Ain't given up on it
yet.

Frank Sr.
...Oregon's John Day river this year, maybe the Alcan next year.

I'll check that one out, I assume it includes good info on British Columbia?

It's worth the wait Frank.. the first time everything just fell into place,
still trying to get out there again. may have to wait a few years until the
boys can enjoy it too.

"Frank Church" wrote in message
9.11...
Frank Church wrote in
9.11:

It includes ton of info, including
places to fish along the highway systems. I purchased this one along
with the Milepost in anticipation of making that trip about 3 yrs ago.
Ain't given up on it yet.

...I was just reminded about a funny incident that happened on the Yukon
river in the Yukon Territories. In 1970 immediately after my retirement
from the USAF in Portland, Or. I bundled all my stuff, including my then
14 yr old son into a 1968 Chevy Impala and we headed north to Alaska,
with Eagle River the destination.

Wow, Alaska back in the 70's must have been incredible.

We slept along the roadside in a little
2 man tent each night and had a great time. We came upon the Yukon river
and it looked really fishy so I parked the Impala and got out my spinning
rod (this was pre-flyfishing) First cast with a Red Devil spoon I hooked
a nice size pike. Got him to shore and told my son to get the camera.
While waiting for that to happen this danged pike was flipping and
flopping all over the place. The camera was readied and I held up the
fish for the picture, with one big flop this guy flew out of my hands,
hit the bank and flopped his way back into the river. #1 son thought that
was pretty funny, and after awhile so did I. No picture but the memory
still remains.


All that counts is that picture in your mind. There are a few fish that I
know, even after my wits are gone, I'll catch again.


Mike

"John" wrote in message
...
Kudos Mike for a great post. Been there done that and everything you said
was right on! Just a few add-ons thoughts:


Thanks John!

To and from Alaska fly fishing while driving through British Columbia and
Yukon Territory is great also and the Kassiar Highway is a great way to
get up there and return. The Skeena and Babine are truly hallowed waters
to cross but there are many others in Caribou and the Lakes regions.
Driving up we saw 9 bears one day.


That may my next road adventure. Fly into Seattle and wander on up. I
think the ferry system would be cool too, maybe an RV or rental one way, and
the ferry on the way back. How did you know the Skeena and Babine were on
the list??

Although Alaska is not nearly highway-accessible everywhere, there are
enough black-topped roads to allow an RV to get plenty of fishing access
with minimal gravel road access. Except for gravel roads between villages,
a four wheel drive is highly recommended for non paved road travel. It's
a sinking, anxious feeling to be 28 miles from pavement, by your self and
be stuck.

I could see that, we were nervous on the Denali Highway with a Mini-van
rental. Plenty of people around in July, but if major problems hit..and in
the off season, a four wheel drive with a quad in the back I'm sure.


We had a 5th wheel which IMHO is not the best rig for Alaska Highway
fishing. A toad following a class A or class C or a travel trailer with
the tow vehicle set up right all would have been better. The 4 wheel
drive toad or tow vehicle should have a camper shell. Under the boat rack
fits a ATV, 25 hp motor, chain saw, gas, water, shovel, tackle, etc.
Locals often pull their boat through the tundra to lakes for fishing that
maybe sees no more than 2-3 fishermen on it per summer.

That's what I'm talking about...you'da man. Sounds similar to some
practically virgin lakes my grandfather showed me when I was young and
stupid (but learning fast). He had a "camp" up in Quebec on Lac St.Jean
(more of a vacation retreat really), and we would pass through the
Laurentides (hope I spelled that right). That place was full of lakes
without a soul on them. Would like to get back there for some fishing one
of these days.

I'd avoid the combat fishing on the Russian/Kenai. It's not worth the
hassle.

Yep, didn't even bother to stop really besides one token feel of the water.
It wasn't even prime time yet and it was as crowded as Yellowstone on
opening day.

Fly outs under 30 minutes are not necessary and vary in quality but can be
obtained without reservations in many places and cost locals $65-75 while
lower 48 folks pay $125-175.


That's what I was thinking, plan a few fly-outs along the way. So how do
you know the best places to catch a flight. I saw the obvious spots around
the big tourist areas, but off the beaten track, how do you know? Milepost?

Alaska is a poor but very beautiful state. snipped

Yeah, caught some of that too. Will keep in mind to contribute to the
truly local economies.

Good luck!
John

PS: Drive alertly - avoid the frost heaves!

Thanks for your wealth of information and time it took to contribute. Can't
wait to get back.

"John" wrote in message
...

Good luck!
John

PS: Drive alertly - avoid the frost heaves!


One other note on the tourist side of things I know you can sympathize.

I do enjoy taking a few pics along the way (you know, like Buffalo in
Yellowstone), and while we in Alaska we had a few heavy hitters on the list
to catch. We were lucky enough to see most, and we were eager to get the
last big one off the list, an Alaskan Moose. Having grown up in Vermont,
you would have thought I had the chance to see one, but back then the Moose
were still up in Maine and above, and then we came down here to PA and well,
it's been a while since any Moose roamed around here, if ever.

We were just wandering around one morning, I think it was upper Kenai
Peninsula somewhere and we came across a huge Bull just off the road. We
saw it ahead, so we just pulled over and watched, hadn't even gotten the
camera out, just watching for a while. After bout 20 minutes or so it came
up to the edge of the road. We were readying the camera as it was about to
cross the road when another car came flying by. They must have just seen it
as they passed as they slammed on the brakes a few hundred feet beyond and
threw it in reverse, just missing wearing it as it bolted. I think we put
the camera away after that one (for quite some time).

Damn Tourists..

Mike

"Mike Makela" ten.tsacmoc@alekamm wrote in message
...
This started as reply to Jeff's post from yesterday, moved it to a new
post as it got lengthy

I did a family/fishing trip several years ago and didn't find it hard to
get into fishing at all. Not sure what the barometer is, but with a
little research, you can find fish VERY EASILY. Yes, the ultimate guided
trips via the big lodges around Lake Iliamna, Lake Clark Preserve, and
Katmai preserves will be the best you can buy, but the option that Willi,
Chas, RW put together, or even a road trip are very feasible.

We wondered around a good part of the road system in Alaska, combining it
with a trip into Glacier Bay (part of the "Inner Passage"). With the
research in hand I plotted out several areas to fish including Juneau,
Glacier Bay, Cook Inlet feeders, Denali Highway, Richardson Highway, and
others. We definetly did much more sightseeing than fishing as my wife
does not fish, but I caught several varieties of fish including silvers,
dolly varden, large Rainbows, and grayling on the side. Skipped on the
opportunity for King Salmon as they do attract a crowd, but all areas I
fished were not populated with other fisherman at all.

If I go back just for fishing I would spend a little extra and hit the
inner passage more, up to Valdez (major stop in Yukatat). This would
require use of the ferry system and a few flights to get into the more
inaccessible locations, but I'd be looking more for the steelhead/giant
rainbow fare, with whatever salmon, trout, etc mixed in along the way.

One thing I would also check would be the Wrangell Mountain Area. If
memory serves they were expanding the road system in the Wrangell Mountain
National Park so may be some new opportunities there. Any area where they
have put in new roads I would think would offer more accessible fishing.

The float trip would be cool too, so if that worked out, to take it along
with a bunch of fellow Roffians, I would jump on that also,

Here is a quick link you could use used to start planning a road trip:
http://www.bellsalaska.com/denalihy.html

The Alaskan Milepost had much more information (a publication on all of
the roads and stops along the way). It a great detailed reference of the
roads system and all of the accommodations, eateries, spots for fishing,
and really every thing along the way. This link gives you a good summary
of what the milepost is about, but you need to purchase the publication to
get all of the detail.

http://www.themilepost.com/

There are several other books I also used for research, one specifically
for fishing by highway in Alaska, a few travel guides to find
accommodations and eateries. I can dig out more detail on the books and
such if anyone is interested.

Another good point for the road trip would be for those of us that may
need to include the family on the trip to justify the fishing...uh I mean
would like to get some fishing in while they explore Alaska with their
families. Could offer a few suggestion on the tour side of things also,
but for me the highlights were

- Whale watching in Glacier Bay (saw the largest friggin grizzly bear I
would ever want to see, from the security of the boat) along with
Glaciers, seals, Eagles and other birds, and tons of other wildlife.
- Glacier Bay Lodge...got a good deal on accommodation, not sure what they
are now, but you can walk to incredible wildlife viewing along the water,
and caught a run of fish (think they were sea run Dollies) that was
incredible.
- the city of Juneau - historic Alaska and a very interesting town. Access
to local fishing via roads in town.
- Glacier Landing on Denali (aka Mt McKinley) - this was the THE highlight
worth the $50 per person - make sure to bring the camera.
- Stay in Talkeetna - the Alaskan town you picture in your mind.
- Denali National Park - Tour into the park was an ultimate experience.
- Denali highway - Just a great way to see Alaska by car. Plan a stop
where you can as the gravel road can wear on you after a while.
- Seward - Wildlife/Whale tour was good (better in Glacier Bay). Got to
see a few Eagles dive on a run of Silvers.

Plan as much time as you can - so many places to see and fish. We took 2
weeks and it was not enough. An alternative would be to travel in pieces,
don't try to see it all the first time in.

The Finn


Get the mile post from Amazon.com About 30% less than buying direct.
Learned that fact too late.