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orvis loop connector question



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 22nd, 2006, 04:59 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

I just bought an Orvis line that came with a loop connector. Seemed
like a cool idea. I was getting it ready to put it on the reel and the
plastic thing that keeps the line on the spool has written on it:
"Connect this end to Reel". Easy enough, since there was a loop
connector sticking out. I looped it onto the backing a reeled it in.
When I got to the other end of the fly line there was no loop
connector! Now I know the loop connector is for connecting to the
leader, but I'm going to have a hard time doing that when it's under
all that fly line.

What's up? Was my line spooled backwards? Did I read the instructions
wrong.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Looped,
Randy

  #2  
Old March 22nd, 2006, 05:25 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

Randy Weatherly wrote:
I just bought an Orvis line that came with a loop connector. Seemed
like a cool idea. I was getting it ready to put it on the reel and the
plastic thing that keeps the line on the spool has written on it:
"Connect this end to Reel". Easy enough, since there was a loop
connector sticking out. I looped it onto the backing a reeled it in.
When I got to the other end of the fly line there was no loop
connector! Now I know the loop connector is for connecting to the
leader, but I'm going to have a hard time doing that when it's under
all that fly line.

What's up? Was my line spooled backwards? Did I read the instructions
wrong.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Looped,
Randy


If the packaging said "Connect this end to Reel" it must have been a WF
line. You can tell the "connect to reel" end of a WF line because
there's a relatively long section of constant diameter line (compared to
the "connect to leader" end).

If I were you I'd clip off the loop and learn a nail knot, suitable for
both the backing connection and the leader connection. You could also
use an arbor knot for the backing connection and an Eagle Claw Leader
Link for the leader end. And there are other options, like needle knots,
Zap-a-Gap, etc.

I don't like loops, except for connecting shooting heads to running
lines, and even then it's a necessary evil. They're too bulky.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #3  
Old March 22nd, 2006, 03:38 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question


"Randy Weatherly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just bought an Orvis line that came with a loop connector. Seemed
like a cool idea. I was getting it ready to put it on the reel and the
plastic thing that keeps the line on the spool has written on it:
"Connect this end to Reel". Easy enough, since there was a loop
connector sticking out. I looped it onto the backing a reeled it in.
When I got to the other end of the fly line there was no loop
connector! Now I know the loop connector is for connecting to the
leader, but I'm going to have a hard time doing that when it's under
all that fly line.

What's up? Was my line spooled backwards? Did I read the instructions
wrong.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Looped,
Randy


Randy,
sounds like you have the Orvis Premium Hy-Flote Tip WF Fly Line with the
integrated welded loop, and the loop should be on the front end of the line
to connect to leaders.
I'm with rw in learning how to tie the nail knot. Most fly shops usually
cut the loop off if you have them install the line onto your reel, sometimes
they don't even ask the customer. Some of my friends actually prefer the
loop to connect leaders. I have cast the loop connection and see no
disadvantages in presentation, it's actually pretty smooth to my surprise.
One of the advantages to the loop connection is that you can "easily" add
the Orvis loop sinking tips.
As for knots, I tie an Arbor knot from the backing to the reel, and an
Albright knot from the backing to the fly-line.
Basic knots:
http://www.3m.com/us/home_leisure/sc...ts_2-13-02.pdf
-tom


  #4  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 01:34 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

Thanks for the response. The line is Orvis Silver Label WF-8-III. So
it is weight forward. I just took it back off the reel and Idid have
it on backwards. The weight forward section is the obvious give away.
I bought the line off Sierra Trading Post .com, so who knows it's
history. But the outside end was not supposed to go to the reel. I've
been fly fishing for ever, so I'm capable of tying nail knots but had
never bought a line with the loop on it. I thought I would give it
try. I'm going to Cabo in a couple of weeks and want to toss a fly
from the beach and see what I can drag in. I've never surf fished
before either, so it should be fun.

Thanks again for the insights,
Randy

  #5  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:15 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

In article , Tom Nakashima
wrote:


I'm with rw in learning how to tie the nail knot.


On this point, so am I. But things like loop-to-loop connections can
rouse strong, at times violent feelings on this newsgroup. RW is
bitterly opposed to them. I must admit that I use them (although I
grant that when using light lines - say 3 weight and below - they
probably have a detrimental effect on casting.)

For me, the convenience is worth it, but I rarely have to, or choose to
cast to trout at over, say, 10 yards, and I can cope with it.

One thing that I think quite a lot of us would suggest is to

a) nail knot a length (a foot and a half?) of thick mono to your line

b) attach tapered leaders, maybe one number higher than you wish to
fish, (say 4 weight) to that mono extension.

c) finally tie a foot or two of final tippet (three weight?) to your
tapered leader.

This gives you a lot of flexibility, and saves you a lot of time and
money.

Lazarus
  #6  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:38 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

On 3/23/06 3:15 PM, in article
alid, "Lazarus Cooke"
wrote:

b) attach tapered leaders, maybe one number higher than you wish to
fish, (say 4 weight) to that mono extension.


For those of you who use this method, what kind of knot do you use to attach
the butt end of the leader to the mono extension? Blood or surgeons, I
presume, yes?

c) finally tie a foot or two of final tippet (three weight?) to your
tapered leader.


I don't think I've ever heard leader/tippet material referred to with the
term "weight". Seems it is most often sized by the "X" designations, or
less frequently by pound test rating or diameter.

Is the term "weight" when referring to tippet one of them there fancy-pants
Anglicanizations? :-)

Bill
(not simply looking for a fight, honest!)

  #7  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:45 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

Lazarus Cooke wrote:
In article , Tom Nakashima
wrote:



I'm with rw in learning how to tie the nail knot.



On this point, so am I. But things like loop-to-loop connections can
rouse strong, at times violent feelings on this newsgroup. RW is
bitterly opposed to them.


That's a little extreme. I just prefer not to use them.

I must admit that I use them (although I
grant that when using light lines - say 3 weight and below - they
probably have a detrimental effect on casting.)

For me, the convenience is worth it, but I rarely have to, or choose to
cast to trout at over, say, 10 yards, and I can cope with it.

One thing that I think quite a lot of us would suggest is to

a) nail knot a length (a foot and a half?) of thick mono to your line

b) attach tapered leaders, maybe one number higher than you wish to
fish, (say 4 weight) to that mono extension.

c) finally tie a foot or two of final tippet (three weight?) to your
tapered leader.


That's what I do. I'll typically start with a nine-foot leader
nail-knotted or leader-linked to the line. After it wears out I cut it
off, leaving about 18 inches of butt end. Then I use 7 1/2 foot 5x
leaders tied to the butt section with a blood knot. When the tippet
needs replacement I cut the leader back to the tapered section, trying
to make the cut at about the 3x spot, and tie on 5x (or whatever *x I
want to use).

If the butt section gets too short I might leave a section of the
replacement leader (and have an extra blood knot) rather tie another
nail knot, unless I'm at home with lots of leisure time and the proper tool.

If I'm nymphing where it's hard to get a good drift I'll cut the leader
way back and tie on a very long tippet (a trick I learned from Willi).
The only problem with this is that it uses up a lot of leaders, or takes
up a lot of time and effort to build up a new properly tapered knotted
leader. It also seems like right after I cut back the leader that fish
start rising. :-)

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #8  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:48 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

William Claspy wrote:
On 3/23/06 3:15 PM, in article
alid, "Lazarus Cooke"
wrote:


b) attach tapered leaders, maybe one number higher than you wish to
fish, (say 4 weight) to that mono extension.



For those of you who use this method, what kind of knot do you use to attach
the butt end of the leader to the mono extension? Blood or surgeons, I
presume, yes?


I use a blood knot, which is really easy to tie in heavy mono. You only
need about three turns on each side and strength isn't an issue.

For fine mono or for connecting mono of very different diameters I use a
surgeon's knot.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #9  
Old March 23rd, 2006, 09:50 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 20:15:22 +0000, Lazarus Cooke
wrote:

I use them (although I
grant that when using light lines - say 3 weight and below - they
probably have a detrimental effect on casting.)


The braided loops can hinge if they are put on wrong. When they do
hinge, they are very detrimental to casting. However, if done right,
I have noted no difference between braided loops and nail knotted
leaders. I fish loops on 4 - 8 weights, casting dries, nymphs, and
streamers. I find them especially handy for changing from mono to FC
leaders.

I generally do not rebuild my leader. I start out with a 5x and when
it gets down to 4x size, I add 5x tippet. When the 4x becomes bigger,
say 3x in size, I *may* add 4 and 5 x, but usually don't bother. My
vests always have spent leaders in the unused pockets. I would save a
helluva lot of money by rebuilding, but I hate barrel knots. The
fewer I tie the happier I am. I save the spent leaders and give them
to my grandkids; let them rebuild 'em. d'o)

Dave



  #10  
Old March 24th, 2006, 09:24 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default orvis loop connector question

In article , William Claspy
wrote:
..

I don't think I've ever heard leader/tippet material referred to with the
term "weight". Seems it is most often sized by the "X" designations, or
less frequently by pound test rating or diameter.

Is the term "weight" when referring to tippet one of them there fancy-pants
Anglicanizations?


The technical term is "carelessness". Or, if you prefer "wrong".

The X system is a nice carry-over, like proof spirit. I think it refers
to the number of times the catgut was drawn.

L
 




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