Nymphing - indicator-to-nymph MAX distance
 

Still struggling with nymphing --

I know that you're supposed to make the distance between your indicator
and your fly about 1.5 - 3x the depth of the water, depending on water
speed, amount of weight, and who you ask. Fine, make sense.

However, I'm often nyphing in water that's at least 4-6 feet deep.
Which means a length of, oh, let's just say about 8' between the
fly+weight and the indicator. It seems to me that that is simply too
much distance - that there's guaranteed to be some slack between the
fly and indicator (what with mid-depth currents and so on, and just the
amount of time it takes the fly to get down deep) which pretty much
guarantees I'll miss any take by simply looking at my indicator.

What am I not understanding here? I feel like I'm comfortable nymphing
with a distance of about 4' between the indicator and fly, and really
no more. But of course that doesn't get me down very deep at all.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?

Tim

Sure, seems short to me too. But what about the slack question? Am I
just being paranoid thinking that I won't be able to tell if a fish
takes with 8'+? Or do I need to add enough weight that the line is
taut between the indicator and fly for much of the drift? Or...?

If your not getting down to where the fish are, what difference does it
make if you can detect the take sooner?.....you're not going to get any
takes. If you've ever done any sight fishing with nymphs, it will
become apparent to you that the fish will pretty much have to hook
himself when taking a nymph, as the take and rejection are so fast,
that by the time you see the indicator move it's all over. Get the
nymph on the bottom, control your drift, and let nature take its course.

wrote:
Still struggling with nymphing --

[snip]
of course that doesn't get me down very deep at all.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?

You don't say if you're casting 20' and trying to get the bottom drift
or if you're standing next to the pool using a high stick nymphing
technique. But based on your description, I think you need to practice
the art of mending.


The first link I googled up was
http://www.yellowstoneangler.com/mending.asp

Scott Just remember that if you're not getting the nymph to where the
Scott fish are, you won't detect any strikes at all. Nymphing is all
Scott about developing confidence in the method. ...

[excellent advice snipped]

It never seizes to amaze me, that underneath all the BS in this
newsgroup, there is some much knowledge and eagerness to help.

No contribution here, carry on.

--
Jarmo Hurri

Commercial email countermeasures included in header email
address. Remove all garbage from header email address when replying,
or just use .

On 31 May 2005 08:30:39 -0700,
wrote:

Still struggling with nymphing --

I know that you're supposed to make the distance between your indicator
and your fly about 1.5 - 3x the depth of the water, depending on water
speed, amount of weight, and who you ask. Fine, make sense.

However, I'm often nyphing in water that's at least 4-6 feet deep.
Which means a length of, oh, let's just say about 8' between the
fly+weight and the indicator. It seems to me that that is simply too
much distance - that there's guaranteed to be some slack between the
fly and indicator (what with mid-depth currents and so on, and just the
amount of time it takes the fly to get down deep) which pretty much
guarantees I'll miss any take by simply looking at my indicator.

What am I not understanding here? I feel like I'm comfortable nymphing
with a distance of about 4' between the indicator and fly, and really
no more. But of course that doesn't get me down very deep at all.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?

Tim

I typically nymph with a nine foot leader. Add some tippet and it's
more than ten feet. This allows me to nymph in shallow (two feet)
water all the way up to about eight feet or so. I change the position
of the indicator (if I am using one), and use lots of split shot to
ensure the lure gets to the bottom and bounces off the rocks. If I
want to go deeper than, say six feet, I will remove the indicator and
watch my line for any hesitation/movement.

Remember, if your indicator (line/leader connection) is going faster
or the same speed as the top current (watch to bubbles), then you do
not have enough weight on. Your indicator should be going slower than
the top level of water. Can't get down to the bottom? Add more
weight, move your indicator up, or remove it all together.

Dave

Dave LaCourse wrote in
:

Remember, if your indicator (line/leader connection) is going faster
or the same speed as the top current (watch to bubbles), then you do
not have enough weight on. Your indicator should be going slower than
the top level of water. Can't get down to the bottom? Add more
weight, move your indicator up, or remove it all together.

Dave





I don't get this. I know you're up there with the best nymph fishermen I
know, but I don't see how a nymph without a motor on it can go faster than
the current, unless there's a faster current down below (or maybe a fish
took and for some reason is running downstream), and flow mechanics say the
closer you get to an bank or bottom, the slower the current runs.

When I see my indicator going faster than the current, it's usually because
there's a belly in my line and it's dragging the line tip. An upstream
mend usually fixes this. In some cases, maybe strange eddies make drag
free drifts very difficult no matter how well you mend, and maybe in these
cases more weight helps.

I try to keep as little weight on my leader as possible. While during
winter steelheading I might chuck and duck 3 BB's, this time of year, for
trout on modest water, I'm rarely heavier than two size 10's-- more often
one size 8. If I can see a big "plonk" on the water when casting a size 14
sulphur nymph, I've got too much weight on, so long as I can tick bottom
every now and then with less weight. Maybe making sure you hit bottom is
more important than the dead drift, but I try to do both. In one sense, if
a belly is dragging your line tip, sure as shooting its pulling your nymph
off the bottom.

I try for the dead drift, with the indicator going pretty near the top
current--keeping in mind that the bottom current could be a little slower.

Probably the most important thing for the beginning nympher to remember is
if your indicator or line seems to do something odd, no matter how subtle,
set the hook immediately. This can get you hung up, because you're trying
to hit bottom, but don't assume its bottom, and you'll wait for the next
fish. Often, that was the next fish. If you want to try to avoid getting
hung up, put your shot on a very short dropper off the tippet.

Scott

On 31 May 2005 20:24:30 GMT, Scott Seidman
wrote:

I don't get this. I know you're up there with the best nymph fishermen I
know, but I don't see how a nymph without a motor on it can go faster than
the current, unless there's a faster current down below (or maybe a fish
took and for some reason is running downstream), and flow mechanics say the
closer you get to an bank or bottom, the slower the current runs.

If your strike indicator is going the same speed as the bubbles around
it (top current), so is your nymph. The water that the nymph is in
will be running much slower, but if the nymph is going faster than the
bottom current, a fish probably won't hit it. And, it doesn't need a
motor, inboard or outboard, to be going faster than the bottom
current. If my strike indicator (line) is going as fast as the water
around it, I add more split shot until it slows to a speed I think is
correct. And, you are right, if you get a belly in your line, the
strike indicator/fly will move much faster than the current.

Distance nymphing, like you would do with steelhead and salmon, or on
the Rapid River, is very dependent on mending. You don't mend
properly, you are going to get few hits, and every time you do mend,
the fly should go a little deeper. Most of the steelhead I've hooked
have been hooked right after I've mended the line. If you don't know
how to mend, don't go to Alaska for salmon or big rainbows, because
the whole game is mending *once you have the lure at the proper depth
by means of weight.*


Dave

Scott, I see where I have confused you. Sorry. That should read if
your indicator (line) is moving at the same speed as the surface
current, you need to add weight to slow it down. If it is moving
"faster", then you have a belly in you line and need to mend (as you
have stated).

Sorry for any confusion.

Dave

Scott Seidman wrote:
Dave LaCourse wrote in
:


Remember, if your indicator (line/leader connection) is going faster
or the same speed as the top current (watch to bubbles), then you do
not have enough weight on. Your indicator should be going slower than
the top level of water. Can't get down to the bottom? Add more
weight, move your indicator up, or remove it all together.

Dave






I don't get this.

I don't either.

My approach to dead-drift nymphing is to work the "turnover point."
That's the (usually short) section of the drift where the indicator is
directly above the fly, and where the drift has the least drag. Ideally,
the indicator, as well as the fly, will drift with no drag.

The idea is basically to decide where the fish are and then to cast
upstream, with the distance depending in the current, and to mend to
create a turnover point right in front of the fish.

Works for me.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message
...

If your strike indicator is going the same speed as the bubbles around
it (top current), so is your nymph...

Hm......

If you're fishing in shallow water with a weighted nymph with an eight foot
leader and the nymph starts out downstream from the indicator and in the lee
of a small pebble......

Your indicator can move nearly sixteen feet.....at the same speed as the
bubbles around it.....before the nymph moves at all..

Wolfgang

On Tue, 31 May 2005 19:11:51 -0500, "Wolfgang"
wrote:

If you're fishing in shallow water with a weighted nymph with an eight foot
leader and the nymph starts out downstream from the indicator and in the lee
of a small pebble......

Your indicator can move nearly sixteen feet.....at the same speed as the
bubbles around it.....before the nymph moves at all..

You are correct. But who nymphs downstream. Certainly not me.
And just because I am fishing with an eight foot leader, it does not
mean my strike indicator is eight feet from the nymph. In two feet of
water, it is probably three or four feet from the nymph. Or, more
than likely I am not using an indicator at all.

Dave

On Tue, 31 May 2005 18:05:09 -0600, rw
wrote:

I don't either.

My approach to dead-drift nymphing is to work the "turnover point."
That's the (usually short) section of the drift where the indicator is
directly above the fly, and where the drift has the least drag. Ideally,
the indicator, as well as the fly, will drift with no drag.

The idea is basically to decide where the fish are and then to cast
upstream, with the distance depending in the current, and to mend to
create a turnover point right in front of the fish.

Works for me.


I posted a correction to the original post saying that "faster than
the current" is possible only if you have a belly in the line, meaning
the line and indicator are dragging. If the strike indicator
(leader/line connection, or whatever you are watching for a strike) is
not moving slower than the top current, you need more weight. Your
turnover point is obvious, however most of my strikes are before I
reach the turnover spot.

Dave LaCourse wrote:

Your
turnover point is obvious, however most of my strikes are before I
reach the turnover spot.

That's because you're dragging your fly over what should be the turnover
point.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 May 2005 19:11:51 -0500, "Wolfgang"
wrote:

If you're fishing in shallow water with a weighted nymph with an eight
foot
leader and the nymph starts out downstream from the indicator and in the
lee
of a small pebble......

Your indicator can move nearly sixteen feet.....at the same speed as the
bubbles around it.....before the nymph moves at all..

You are correct. But who nymphs downstream. Certainly not me.

Well, I don't do much nymph fishing so I can hardly claim to be an authority
but, if memory serves, Jim Leisenring had something to say about it.
Besides, it stand to reason that fishing a weighted nymph downstream on a
taut leader is an excellent way to control the speed of the drift.

And just because I am fishing with an eight foot leader, it does not
mean my strike indicator is eight feet from the nymph.

True, true.

In two feet of
water, it is probably three or four feet from the nymph.

If your depth holds, that's good thing. But if you're working the tailout
of a pool or a run, things can get shallow in a hurry. If there's four feet
of leader between the indicator and the fly and the fly is ahead of the
indicator, your indicator can move up to nearly eight feet.....at the same
speed as the bubbles around it.....before the numph moves at all.

Or, more
than likely I am not using an indicator at all.

Your scenario, not mine.

Wolfgang
look it up.

If you're fishing deep with lots of distance between the bobber and the
fly, watch the submerged curves in your leader instead of your fish
pimp when you can and you'll notice more takes.

When the drift is too far away to see the leader underwater, overpower
the mend a little and pull the whole outfit a little tighter underwater
and that'll also help with detection. I think it's worth the temporary
interruption in the drift to get a little straighter leader underwater.

Let your downstream drifts straigthen completely before you strip your
line in or pick it up to cast. Sometimes you've got a fish hooked and
don't know it and of course sometimes they like it swinging and/or
rising at the end of the drift.

bruce h

On Tue, 31 May 2005 19:59:32 -0500, "Wolfgang"
wrote:

If there's four feet
of leader between the indicator and the fly and the fly is ahead of the
indicator, your indicator can move up to nearly eight feet.....at the same
speed as the bubbles around it.....before the numph moves at all.

Like I said, I don't nymph down stream. Some do. More power to them,
but I don't.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 18:53:35 -0600, rw
wrote:

Dave LaCourse wrote:

Your
turnover point is obvious, however most of my strikes are before I
reach the turnover spot.

That's because you're dragging your fly over what should be the turnover
point.

Huh?

I cast upstream ten feet, the indicator drifts toward me at a speed
slower than the surface current. I see a strike when the indicator is
six feet upstream. I set the hook. There's no drag involved. If
there was I wouldn't be so successful as a nympher.

"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 May 2005 19:59:32 -0500, "Wolfgang"
wrote:

If there's four feet
of leader between the indicator and the fly and the fly is ahead of the
indicator, your indicator can move up to nearly eight feet.....at the same
speed as the bubbles around it.....before the numph moves at all.

Like I said, I don't nymph down stream.

O.k.......but you DID ask who does.

Some do.

Yeah, I believe Jim Leisenring did.

More power to them,

Well, he's kind of dead now.

but I don't.

O.k.

Wolfgang
who notes in passing that being invisible ain't what it used to was.

This has been one of the best, most informative discussions I have ever
seen here. Thanks so much for all your postings. I will ponder, try
out, and come back when I have more questions.

Many thanks, Tim

Actually, Dave (or anyone), I do have a couple more question:

Do you worry that too much weight can somehow mess with the drift of
your nymph?

OK, obviously there's some amount of weight that is too much. But I'm
just wondering if I should always try to err on the side of extra
weight. As it is, I can't think of a time that I"ve ever put on more
than two 4's, or maybe one BB - and perhaps that's my problem. And
yes, I'm sure in general I don't do enough to tick bottom. But does
the upside of being down deep always trump the downside of possibly
having too much weight? (Sorry - that sentence came out as is, and
it's just too bad to change it.)

If it makes a difference - most of the situations when I'm
under-confident in my nymphing occur when I'm casting a ways, say about
20'. If I'm high-sticking, then I'm generally pretty confident. (And
part of what started all of this is that I noticed that I have a
markedly better success rate nymphing when I'm close enough and the
water is clear enough that I can actually see the take subsurface - a
much much higher success ratio - made me think I was doing something
wrong in other situations, just looking at my indicator.)

"rw" wrote

I'm going to sneak in a TR under false pretenses:

The day before yesterday I took my fishing cat to a local lake. I know I
can always catch nice rainbows in this lake by stripping woolly buggers,
if I'm patient enough, but that's boring fishing. So I went in the
evening, expecting rises.

(snip)

maudlin.

just kidding, of course. very nice imagery.

wayno

Thanks for the great compliment RW. I'll remember that next time I'm
watching you catch a zillion fish.

Excellent story, too.

bh

I thought the elitist principle of "upstream only" applies to dries
only, and that it's still acceptable for a snob to fish nymphs
downstream (G).

Seriously, though, you *never* fish nymphs downstream, even a little?
That's the first time I've ever heard that one. It takes a lot of
discipline to get that fly out of the water before it crosses that
line...

There are an amazing variety of techniques around and I know that yours
works for you so I'm not knocking it. I just can't resist being a
smart ass. ; -)

bh

On 6/2/05 12:46 PM, in article
,
" wrote:

I just can't resist being a
smart ass. ; -)


The ROFF motto, ladies and gents!

Bill

On Thu, 1 Jun 2005 wrote:

Do you worry that too much weight can somehow mess with the drift of
your nymph?

I use an interative approach where I lengthen the leader a little bit, add
a little more weight, and repeat the process until I start ticking bottom
or snagging the occasional bit of vegetation.

the upside of being down deep always trump the downside of possibly
having too much weight?

Catching fish has a huge upside in the level of enjoyment and development
of confidence to the point where eventually you can fine tune your
technique and back of on the amount of weight.

Mu

"Mu Young Lee" wrote in message
cc.itd.umich.edu...
On Thu, 1 Jun 2005 wrote:

Do you worry that too much weight can somehow mess with the drift of
your nymph?

I use an interative approach where I lengthen the leader a little bit, add
a little more weight, and repeat the process until I start ticking bottom
or snagging the occasional bit of vegetation.

the upside of being down deep always trump the downside of possibly
having too much weight?

Catching fish has a huge upside in the level of enjoyment and development
of confidence to the point where eventually you can fine tune your
technique and back of on the amount of weight.

Mu

ya know, i just can't resist the opportunity to soapbox on some of this
"nymphing technique" as it relates to fishing with a fly rod.

at some point (and for me, it's after one lead ball), this leaves the
world of "fysshing with a flye", or whatever, and enters the world of "catch
the *******s anyway you can".

if one wants, or needs, to start adding chunks of lead to a line, very
early on a lightweight spinning rod becomes, quite obviously, a much more
efficient tool; and more stylish, to boot.

yfitons
wayno

"Wayne Harrison" wrote in message
...

ya know, i just can't resist the opportunity to soapbox on some of this
"nymphing technique" as it relates to fishing with a fly rod.

at some point (and for me, it's after one lead ball), this leaves the
world of "fysshing with a flye", or whatever, and enters the world of
"catch the *******s anyway you can".

if one wants, or needs, to start adding chunks of lead to a line, very
early on a lightweight spinning rod becomes, quite obviously, a much more
efficient tool; and more stylish, to boot.

yfitons
wayno


Well, mfitons, perhaps that's true if one was to go about adding "chunks of
lead". Which is precisely why , when confronted with a need to get a nymph
down, further and faster, I recommend the addition of salmon eggs and/or
garden hackles (aka #10 Pinkies) rather than lead weights. The upside of the
aforementioned lead substitutes is that they can be added in infinitely
variable quantities, they are bio-degradable, and oddly enough, they seem to
actually *attract* fish.

Danl

"Danl" wrote in message
...

"Wayne Harrison" wrote in message
...

ya know, i just can't resist the opportunity to soapbox on some of
this "nymphing technique" as it relates to fishing with a fly rod.

at some point (and for me, it's after one lead ball), this leaves the
world of "fysshing with a flye", or whatever, and enters the world of
"catch the *******s anyway you can".

if one wants, or needs, to start adding chunks of lead to a line, very
early on a lightweight spinning rod becomes, quite obviously, a much more
efficient tool; and more stylish, to boot.

yfitons
wayno


Well, mfitons, perhaps that's true if one was to go about adding "chunks
of lead". Which is precisely why , when confronted with a need to get a
nymph down, further and faster, I recommend the addition of salmon eggs
and/or garden hackles (aka #10 Pinkies) rather than lead weights. The
upside of the aforementioned lead substitutes is that they can be added in
infinitely variable quantities, they are bio-degradable, and oddly enough,
they seem to actually *attract* fish.

Danl

All well and good, but how the hell do you tie them in? 3/0 thread just
cuts them all to ****! :(

Wolfgang
who, were he less of a gentleman, would consider bait fishing as a
reasonable alternative.

On 2 Jun 2005 09:46:58 -0700, wrote:

There are an amazing variety of techniques around and I know that yours
works for you so I'm not knocking it. I just can't resist being a
smart ass. ; -)


You could never be a smartass, at least not after you gave me that fly
box with those wonderful itty-bitty ties. Since you gave them to me,
I have taken more fish on your patterns than any other pattern. They
worked at Penns, Bighorn, the Rapid in Maine, and I will use them in
Kamchatka in August. Great flies, Bruce. They've inspired me to
think small with whatever nymph I tie - GRW, PT, GRHE, et al.

And, yes, I fish downstream with a nymph and I use the Leisenring Lift
at the end of the drift. Besides, you practically have to let the rig
go downstream so that the line straightens out for the cast upstream.
No false casting. I designed a caddis nymph a few years ago with a
"bubble" attached to it. I used a clear glass bead to represent the
bubble of air caddis have when they rise to the surface. I've taken
many fish with the pattern using the Lift at the end of the drift. But
try not to let it get out that I fish a nymph downstream. d;o)

Dave

"Wolfgang" wrote in message
...


All well and good, but how the hell do you tie them in? 3/0 thread just
cuts them all to ****! :(


I prefer using #10 - #18 LWSHs (Lead Weight Substitute Holders) sold at most
fly shops, but sometimes by other names. Most come with a convenient built
in barb-like doohickey that assist in holding the LWS onto the
hoo....err...LWSH.

Wolfgang
who, were he less of a gentleman, would consider bait fishing as a
reasonable alternative.


Bait Fishing!!!??? Don't be a cad!

Danl

...and remember, Western Clave Attendees, lead weights are strictly verboten
in der Yallerstone Natl Park!

On 1 Jun 2005 21:51:55 -0700, wrote:

Actually, Dave (or anyone), I do have a couple more question:

Do you worry that too much weight can somehow mess with the drift of
your nymph?

OK, obviously there's some amount of weight that is too much. But I'm
just wondering if I should always try to err on the side of extra
weight. As it is, I can't think of a time that I"ve ever put on more
than two 4's, or maybe one BB - and perhaps that's my problem. And
yes, I'm sure in general I don't do enough to tick bottom. But does
the upside of being down deep always trump the downside of possibly
having too much weight? (Sorry - that sentence came out as is, and
it's just too bad to change it.)

If it makes a difference - most of the situations when I'm
under-confident in my nymphing occur when I'm casting a ways, say about
20'. If I'm high-sticking, then I'm generally pretty confident. (And
part of what started all of this is that I noticed that I have a
markedly better success rate nymphing when I'm close enough and the
water is clear enough that I can actually see the take subsurface - a
much much higher success ratio - made me think I was doing something
wrong in other situations, just looking at my indicator.)

Tim, there are many ways to nymph. I favor the upstream method using
split shot to get the lure down to the bottom. If I don't get a snag
once in awhile I'm not deep enough. After awhile you'll have a
formula for how much weight in streams that you fish alot. You have
to "tune" your rig in a few ways - kind of nymph, distance to the
split shot (if you are using any), amount of split shot, and the
setting for your strike indicator (if you are using one). Nymphing is
more difficult than a dry fly or a streamer because you are working
with an extra dimension, depth. (FYFIA d;o) ) Believe me, you will
know when you have too much weight. I always seem to err on the
other side, not enough weight.

There is a spot on my favorite river where the current washes over an
old logging dam into a very deep pool. It is a wonderful spot to use
a dry or a streamer, but you have to adjust your way of thinking about
nymphing. To use a nymph, I simply cast about 10 - 20 feet with a
weight nymph, watch it while it sinks, and then use a L. Lift on it.
If I find the right pattern I can count on some very big brookies or
landlocked salmon.

Another method I've used with mixed results is the across and down and
raising the fly by raising the tip of your rod and moving the fly to
different parts of a riffle/run. I've caught fish like this, but
don't care for the method. High sticking without an indicator and
upstream without an indicator are my favorite/preferred methods. I too
love to see the "wink" when the fish turns a little sideways to take
the nymph. That's one of the bennies of fishing close to where you
are standing.

Like I've said, Tim, there are many ways to nymph. To learn more, I
recommend a book by Charles Brooks with illustrations by Dave Whitlock
called Nymph Fishing for Larger Trout. Also, read anything you can
get from Gary Borger on the subject. Peter Charles and I attended a
seminar given by him at a fly show in Toronto a few years ago. Very
impressive and helpful.

Dave

On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 16:05:04 -0700, "Danl" wrote:

..and remember, Western Clave Attendees, lead weights are strictly verboten
in der Yallerstone Natl Park!

I got myself a better flyvest camera now, so I'll be ready for all those cutts
you catch this year. g
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com

"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message
...

"...who nymphs downstream. Certainly not me."

"Like I said, I don't nymph down stream. Some do. More power to them,
but I don't."

...yes, I fish downstream with a nymph...

Hm.......

and I use the Leisenring Lift
at the end of the drift.

Leisenring.....Leisenring.....um......dead guy?......used to fly
fish?.....downstream, with a nymph?.....that Leisenring?

Never heard of him.

Wolfgang

On Thu, 2 Jun 2005, Wayne Harrison wrote:

if one wants, or needs, to start adding chunks of lead to a line, very
early on a lightweight spinning rod becomes, quite obviously, a much more
efficient tool; and more stylish, to boot.

yfitons
wayno

I admit it. I am a barbarian. My wife tells me so all the time. But
basically, my approach to fly fishing is maximize versatility with a
minimal amount of tools. I still have a long way to go, but I'm rather
happy in my journey towards the general direction of enlightenment even if
I might never get there.

Soaking my lead balls and lengthening my tippet is another thing entirely
....

Mu

"Mu Young Lee" wrote



I admit it. I am a barbarian. My wife tells me so all the time. But
basically, my approach to fly fishing is maximize versatility with a
minimal amount of tools. I still have a long way to go, but I'm rather
happy in my journey towards the general direction of enlightenment even if
I might never get there.

Soaking my lead balls and lengthening my tippet is another thing entirely


i can't believe that the same guy who tied those amazing, tiny flies
that you sent to me can withstand the grotesque feeling of launching an
ounce or so of lead with a fly at the end of the chain...

yfitons
wayno

"Scott Seidman" wrote in message
. 1.4...
Dave LaCourse wrote in
:

Remember, if your indicator (line/leader connection) is going faster
or the same speed as the top current (watch to bubbles),...

I don't get this. I know you're up there with the best nymph fishermen I
know, but I don't see how a nymph without a motor on it can go faster than
the current...

He didn't mean that. He meant the indicator should be going a little slower
than the surface current. It won't ever be going faster unless there's some
strange drag from a fast side current or something. Anyway, this is why
Borger calls it a drift indicator instead of a strike indicator.