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Waterboatman Pattern



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 27th, 2005, 01:31 PM
North Star
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Default Waterboatman Pattern

Can anyone reccomend a link or pattern to tie up some Waterboatmen.

While removing my ice fishing shanty off the lake yesterday, I noticed
through some clear ice a Waterboatmen swimming about. I have heard that you
must be careful when you tie these not to tie something that might resemble
a Backswimmer, as these creatures sting, and trout avoid them. This will be
my first try using waterboatmen, as in the past I have gone with leach
patterns for spring ice out fishing.

Thanks in advance


  #4  
Old March 27th, 2005, 08:56 PM
W. D. Grey
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Default

In article , North Star
writes
Can anyone reccomend a link or pattern to tie up some Waterboatmen.

While removing my ice fishing shanty off the lake yesterday, I noticed
through some clear ice a Waterboatmen swimming about. I have heard that you
must be careful when you tie these not to tie something that might resemble
a Backswimmer, as these creatures sting, and trout avoid them. This will be
my first try using waterboatmen, as in the past I have gone with leach
patterns for spring ice out fishing.

Thanks in advance


be more specific if you mean Coryxa then fine. Theothe boatban which
scud over the surface isn't taken by trout as a rule.

Ask for Coryxa patterns. This a is a diving beetle which carries a
bubble of air which is often represented by a silver abdomen.
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk
  #5  
Old March 28th, 2005, 01:50 AM
jackk
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Default

A pattern that we use with success in lakes in the Sierra is as follows

Size 14 or 16 wet fly hook
Tie on 2 pcs of pearl crystal flash at rear of hook as a tail. two or three
times the length of the hook
Tie on a thin strip of black plastic (from a garbagge bags) at rear of hook
facing backwards. It will be pulled foreward as a shell back
Dub a bulbous tapered body. Use white, cream, tan, amber or gold dubbing or
peacock hearl.
Pull plastic foreward and tie off at hook eye
Tie in two brown or black goose biots in at eye as legs. should be at least
half the length of body and should point downwards and backwards.

You can add a gold bead at the beginning and use as one sized larger hook

Fish with a split shot and strip fast. Also can fish it as a dropper to a
dry fly

You can tell when ther are water boatmen around when it sounds as if some
one is hitting your float tube with a BB gun



"North Star" northstar_NOSPAM wrote in message
...
Can anyone reccomend a link or pattern to tie up some Waterboatmen.

While removing my ice fishing shanty off the lake yesterday, I noticed
through some clear ice a Waterboatmen swimming about. I have heard that

you
must be careful when you tie these not to tie something that might

resemble
a Backswimmer, as these creatures sting, and trout avoid them. This will

be
my first try using waterboatmen, as in the past I have gone with leach
patterns for spring ice out fishing.

Thanks in advance




  #6  
Old March 28th, 2005, 06:08 PM
W. D. Grey
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Posts: n/a
Default

In article , jackk
writes
A pattern that we use with success in lakes in the Sierra is as follows

Size 14 or 16 wet fly hook
Tie on 2 pcs of pearl crystal flash at rear of hook as a tail. two or three
times the length of the hook


Can't see the need for this, but if it works I won't knock it.

Tie on a thin strip of black plastic (from a garbagge bags) at rear of hook
facing backwards. It will be pulled foreward as a shell back


Fine shell back material. cut the plastic in a sort of canoe shape, it
forms the body wing case nicely.

Dub a bulbous tapered body. Use white, cream, tan, amber or gold dubbing or
peacock hearl.


I would suggest a weighted underbody like some fine lead wire flattened,
and a bulbous body of tying thread over wrapped with flat silver ribbon.

Pull plastic foreward and tie off at hook eye
Tie in two brown or black goose biots in at eye as legs. should be at least
half the length of body and should point downwards and backwards.


Black biots should look good tied as you suggest.


The bug should be fished by allowing it to sink and tweaking it to the
surface in short jerks.

Do we agree?
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk
  #7  
Old March 29th, 2005, 01:46 AM
jackk
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Default

To each his own. All I know is that I have found amber to be the best color
for dubbing in our local lakes. I have even seen live bugs in a medium
brown. My second best producer is peacock herl. Who know what the fish
think it is.

Re your silver ribbon... there is a commercially availble WB fly with a
silver bead for the body. I've never used it since I cannot find the silver
beads

As far a weight goes, usually one split shot is enough for weight. but
when they are really active, just using an unweighted fly as a dropper to
a calleibaetis spinner is often productive; any weight might sink the dry
fly.


"W. D. Grey" wrote in message
...
In article , jackk
writes
A pattern that we use with success in lakes in the Sierra is as follows

Size 14 or 16 wet fly hook
Tie on 2 pcs of pearl crystal flash at rear of hook as a tail. two or

three
times the length of the hook


Can't see the need for this, but if it works I won't knock it.

Tie on a thin strip of black plastic (from a garbagge bags) at rear of

hook
facing backwards. It will be pulled foreward as a shell back


Fine shell back material. cut the plastic in a sort of canoe shape, it
forms the body wing case nicely.

Dub a bulbous tapered body. Use white, cream, tan, amber or gold dubbing

or
peacock hearl.


I would suggest a weighted underbody like some fine lead wire flattened,
and a bulbous body of tying thread over wrapped with flat silver ribbon.

Pull plastic foreward and tie off at hook eye
Tie in two brown or black goose biots in at eye as legs. should be at

least
half the length of body and should point downwards and backwards.


Black biots should look good tied as you suggest.


The bug should be fished by allowing it to sink and tweaking it to the
surface in short jerks.

Do we agree?
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk



  #8  
Old March 29th, 2005, 10:16 AM
W. D. Grey
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Posts: n/a
Default

In article , jackk
writes
As far a weight goes, usually one split shot is enough for weight. but
when they are really active, just using an unweighted fly as a dropper to
a calleibaetis spinner is often productive; any weight might sink the dry
fly.


Nah! You don't want to use split shot when fishing fly!


--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk
  #9  
Old March 29th, 2005, 06:27 PM
jackk
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Default

there is nothing wrong with using split shot. You often need something to
get the fly down, and a lot of people don't like weight in the fly. they
believe that a weighted fly doesn't look/act/move as natural as an
unweighted fly. Also if you're going to weight the fly, you should tie some
unweighted, some lightly weighted, some heavily weighted, etc It is easier
to change the weight by using different amounts/size of split shot, or sink
putty etc. the disadvantage I believe with split shot is that it gets hung
up easier than a weighted fly


"W. D. Grey" wrote in message
...
In article , jackk
writes
As far a weight goes, usually one split shot is enough for weight. but
when they are really active, just using an unweighted fly as a dropper

to
a calleibaetis spinner is often productive; any weight might sink the

dry
fly.


Nah! You don't want to use split shot when fishing fly!


--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk



  #10  
Old March 29th, 2005, 02:57 PM
DaveMohnsen
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Posts: n/a
Default


"jackk" wrote in message
...
To each his own. All I know is that I have found amber to be the best

color
for dubbing in our local lakes.

(snip)

Re your silver ribbon... there is a commercially availble WB fly with a
silver bead for the body. I've never used it since I cannot find the

silver
beads

(snip)

Hi jackk,
Reference the silver beads. I think I entered a soft hackle swap here or on
ROFF where I did a pattern called a scintillator, or something like that. .
.. was an emerger caddis pattern. I got the beads from a craft store.
The pain was getting a hook with a small enough size eye so I could put the
bead over the front of the hook, as it was not possible to get it over the
bend of the hook. (long shape of bead) I believe it was a plastic kind of
bead. I think Larry Medina, who used to hang around here a bit, did the
swap.
Heck . . .I just looked up my paper copy. It was September 2001.
Web site used to be:
http://home.planet.nl/~westb001/SHSwap.html
for the pics.

I've found it doesn't quite matter how I get the bead on a hook, but more
importantly, to get it anchored in where I want it on the hook, for the
pattern I am tying. It seems I've tied patterns with maybe some type of
bead anywhere along the hook shank. Heh . . .heh . . .and I don't even
use bead patterns that much . . .but I certainly have them along.
HTH a bit,
DaveMohnsen
Denver





 




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