Attaching a fighting butt?

Sorry, I forgot quite an important point. If you do use wood, then it
should be very hard wood, and extremely well sealed. ( soaked in warm
epoxy and then finished when dry), as otherwise it may swell when it
gets wet, and either be impossible to remove, or even damage the
blank.

Also, keep the male spigot clean, and give it a wipe with candle wax
now and again.

Lastly, I have only caught a couple of "faux" steelhead, but I have
caught sea-run rainbows and sea-run browns, both in freshwater and in
the ocean. Using an #8 weight all day is very tiring, and so I use a 9
´6" #7 weight with various shooting heads.The rod will handle big
fish OK, I have had some heavy salmon on it, but it is much lighter
and pleasanter to use than an #8.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

On Aug 29, 11:21 pm, Mike wrote:
Sorry, I forgot quite an important point. If you do use wood, then it
should be very hard wood, and extremely well sealed. ( soaked in warm
epoxy and then finished when dry), as otherwise it may swell when it
gets wet, and either be impossible to remove, or even damage the
blank.

Also, keep the male spigot clean, and give it a wipe with candle wax
now and again.

Lastly, I have only caught a couple of "faux" steelhead, but I have
caught sea-run rainbows and sea-run browns, both in freshwater and in
the ocean. Using an #8 weight all day is very tiring, and so I use a 9
´6" #7 weight with various shooting heads.The rod will handle big
fish OK, I have had some heavy salmon on it, but it is much lighter
and pleasanter to use than an #8.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

Thanks for all the useful information..I appreciate it.

In case it was not entirely clear why the first butt shown is
detachable, that is because the butt can be a real nuisance when
casting. The butt is only attached when one hooks a fish, This is
easy and quick to do, and causes far fewer problems than a permanently
attached butt. I carry the butt in a side pocket of my jacket. It only
takes a second or two to shove it in when required.

Also, I have made a few of these for people who wanted ultra light
spinning rods, but still wanted to use the rod as a fly rod.

One or two people also wanted to use a few rods as light Spey rods,
but still revert to single handed casting when desired. There are a
number of reasons for these extensions.

MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

On 30 Aug, 06:54, wrote:
On Aug 29, 11:21 pm, Mike wrote:



Sorry, I forgot quite an important point. If you do use wood, then it
should be very hard wood, and extremely well sealed. ( soaked in warm
epoxy and then finished when dry), as otherwise it may swell when it
gets wet, and either be impossible to remove, or even damage the
blank.

Also, keep the male spigot clean, and give it a wipe with candle wax
now and again.

Lastly, I have only caught a couple of "faux" steelhead, but I have
caught sea-run rainbows and sea-run browns, both in freshwater and in
the ocean. Using an #8 weight all day is very tiring, and so I use a 9
´6" #7 weight with various shooting heads.The rod will handle big
fish OK, I have had some heavy salmon on it, but it is much lighter
and pleasanter to use than an #8.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

Thanks for all the useful information..I appreciate it.

My pleasure.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

On 30 Aug, 06:54, wrote:

You can buy the necessary stuff here;

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/rod-building/

It is not very expensive.

You might also like to have a look at the PFLUEGER TRION IM8 GRAPHITE
FLY RODS, the 8/9 model comes with a detachable fighting butt.

http://www.hookhack.com/flyrods.html

Not much more than the three forks you were considering, and already
set up.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

http://www.pfluegerfishing.com/produ...ducts.php?p=26

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

"Mike" wrote in message
ups.com...
Sorry, I forgot quite an important point. If you do use wood, then it
should be very hard wood, and extremely well sealed. ( soaked in warm
epoxy and then finished when dry), as otherwise it may swell when it
gets wet, and either be impossible to remove, or even damage the
blank.

I believe the technical name is "stabilized wood"
There are plenty of websites who specialize in such, or you can do as
Mike says above.
-tom

"Mike" wrote in message
ups.com...
In case it was not entirely clear why the first butt shown is
detachable, that is because the butt can be a real nuisance when
casting. The butt is only attached when one hooks a fish, This is
easy and quick to do, and causes far fewer problems than a permanently
attached butt. I carry the butt in a side pocket of my jacket. It only
takes a second or two to shove it in when required.

Also, I have made a few of these for people who wanted ultra light
spinning rods, but still wanted to use the rod as a fly rod.

One or two people also wanted to use a few rods as light Spey rods,
but still revert to single handed casting when desired. There are a
number of reasons for these extensions.

MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/



I once had a Winston LT 9' 7wt. with a detachable fighting butt. Winston
used
a double o-ring pressure fit to secure it into the reelseat. I found it to
be more of a nuisance then a helpful assistant. I ended up putting the
standard cap back on, which
was the same pressure fit. Eventually sold the rod, and never thought of
ever owning
a 5pc sectional again.

Most of the rods companies have fighting butts rods from 7wt & up. I have
the TFO Professionals in a 8wt & 10wt ("w/secured" fighting butts) ...fairly
inexpensive rods, but they get the job done, as I have used them in Alaska
the last two years. Personally I would not want to hook up with a King
Salmon on a river without a fighting butt.
-tom

On 30 Aug, 15:50, "Tom Nakashima" wrote:
"Mike" wrote in message

ups.com...



In case it was not entirely clear why the first butt shown is
detachable, that is because the butt can be a real nuisance when
casting. The butt is only attached when one hooks a fish, This is
easy and quick to do, and causes far fewer problems than a permanently
attached butt. I carry the butt in a side pocket of my jacket. It only
takes a second or two to shove it in when required.

Also, I have made a few of these for people who wanted ultra light
spinning rods, but still wanted to use the rod as a fly rod.

One or two people also wanted to use a few rods as light Spey rods,
but still revert to single handed casting when desired. There are a
number of reasons for these extensions.

MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

I once had a Winston LT 9' 7wt. with a detachable fighting butt. Winston
used
a double o-ring pressure fit to secure it into the reelseat. I found it to
be more of a nuisance then a helpful assistant. I ended up putting the
standard cap back on, which
was the same pressure fit. Eventually sold the rod, and never thought of
ever owning
a 5pc sectional again.

Most of the rods companies have fighting butts rods from 7wt & up. I have
the TFO Professionals in a 8wt & 10wt ("w/secured" fighting butts) ...fairly
inexpensive rods, but they get the job done, as I have used them in Alaska
the last two years. Personally I would not want to hook up with a King
Salmon on a river without a fighting butt.
-tom

Indeed, much the same applies to a lot of ocean fishing I do, Cod for
instance, are not very spectacular fighters, but dogged, and a number
of five or six pound fish can really strain your arm. A fighting butt
alleviates this a lot.

Even the most inexpensive rods will do the job usually, but the
quality of the fittings is of course not usually the same as those on
a high end rod. I have a some very cheap rods, and some very expensive
rods, and quite a bit of stuff in between. They all work perfectly
well. Once you put good quality fittings on a blank, it is no longer
a "cheap" rod. If you find a rod with an action and price you like,
then just buy it. You can worry about the rest later.

Also, and this will doubtless incur the wrath of the fly-fishing elite
here! If you are only going to use a rod for a special purposes
once or twice a year, as a back-up, or on a holiday etc. There is
little point in spending a great deal of money on it. Expensive rods
don´t catch any more fish than cheap ones.

The gap in performance between low-end and high-end rods has been
steadily closing for years. If you get a "cheap" blank, and build it
yourself, then you can get a very nice rod indeed for relatively
little money.

I just got a 9 ´#3 weight for less than twenty dollars, which is
absolutely first class.It is a Chinese built rod. Eventually I will
change the rings for better quality, as necessary but the rod is
excellent. Casts well, handles well, and is otherwise well finished.
It has exactly the action I want, and for that price one can hardly
goi wrong!

Obviously price is an important criteria for many, but nowadays it is
largely dictated by operating costs, and does not reflect the
intrinsic worth of a particular blank.

TL
MC

http://www.mike-connor.homepage.t-online.de/

"Mike" wrote in message
ups.com...
Casts well, handles well,
It has exactly the action I want,

I think this sums it up, I usually don't purchase a fly-rod that I haven't
cast.
There are so many fly-rods on the market today with a variety of actions,
and a wide range of cost as well.
What fly-rod feels good to one, might not feel as good to another, it's
personal preference.
-tom