To Clip or Not to Clip...

I solve the clip failure problem by simpley tossing them in the trash after
a bunch of hard fishing. Three or four times a day normally or anytime they
get too distorted. I have noticed I get more line failures from damaged
line than from knot failure since I went back to tying a half blood or
trilene or modified clinch (or whatever you want to call it) knot.

Lots of guys don't like clips, and that ok. I always say if its working for
you don't let somebody talk you into changing. Something I forget
sometimes.

--
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"Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers" wrote in
message ...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is
because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off
and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on
the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish
from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that
I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip
will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the
line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring on
the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to go
too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com