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Boat wiring info



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 28th, 2004, 10:34 PM
Henry Hefner
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Default Boat wiring info

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry
  #2  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:03 PM
AJH
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Default Boat wiring info

I would go with separate fuses for each item..you want to protect the
"items", one big fuse won't do it..




  #3  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:15 PM
Charles B. Summers
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Default Boat wiring info

Think if it the same as wiring a house. Bring your power to one location and
then branch off to each device. But yes... you do need fuses on everything.
Look up the model numbers of the equiptment and see if you can find a
manual. It will have the fuse sizes listed in there.

The trolling motor on my boat is run directly to the battery (well, through
a plug in too), then fused at the battery with a link. Then again, it's only
a 12v motor. When I upgrade to a 24v motor... I'm going to have to get a 24v
fuse at figure out the amperage I need.

--
Charles B. Summers
Secret Weapon Lures
http://www.secretweaponlures.com


"Henry Hefner" wrote in message
...
Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry



  #4  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:21 PM
Henry Hefner
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Posts: n/a
Default Boat wiring info

Thanks guys, off to the store!
  #5  
Old March 29th, 2004, 12:32 AM
Doc \(The Tin Boat King\)
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Default Boat wiring info

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================== ===============

"Henry Hefner" wrote in message ...
Thanks guys, off to the store!


  #6  
Old March 29th, 2004, 01:06 AM
jack schmitt
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Default Boat wiring info

Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped


I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.
  #7  
Old March 29th, 2004, 02:52 AM
Andrew Kidd
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Posts: n/a
Default Boat wiring info



"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped


I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.



Why is this Jack? Is it a matter of convenience, or is there another
electrical reason for proximity to the battery?

Just curious...since I know nothing about wiring either.
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home


  #8  
Old March 29th, 2004, 03:36 AM
Charles B. Summers
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Boat wiring info

Because the wire leading to the fuse panel from the battery could overheat
and cause a fire. If you have a breaker/fuse close to the battery, hopefully
if something happens it will stop there.

--
Charles B. Summers
Secret Weapon Lures
http://www.secretweaponlures.com


"Andrew Kidd" wrote in message
news:vjL9c.26759$w54.173625@attbi_s01...


"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom

flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped


I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.



Why is this Jack? Is it a matter of convenience, or is there another
electrical reason for proximity to the battery?

Just curious...since I know nothing about wiring either.
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home




  #9  
Old March 29th, 2004, 03:49 AM
Calif Bill
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Boat wiring info


"Henry Hefner" wrote in message
...
Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry



http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books

12 volt bible for boats.
Bill


  #10  
Old March 29th, 2004, 12:44 PM
Andrew Kidd
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Boat wiring info

Thanks Charles...

--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home


"Charles B. Summers" wrote in message
.. .
Because the wire leading to the fuse panel from the battery could overheat
and cause a fire. If you have a breaker/fuse close to the battery,

hopefully
if something happens it will stop there.

--
Charles B. Summers
Secret Weapon Lures
http://www.secretweaponlures.com


"Andrew Kidd" wrote in message
news:vjL9c.26759$w54.173625@attbi_s01...


"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom

flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to

check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped

I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.



Why is this Jack? Is it a matter of convenience, or is there another
electrical reason for proximity to the battery?

Just curious...since I know nothing about wiring either.
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home






 




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