Quick-Seine Net?

"Dave Mohnsen" wrote

Problem I have with the insect nets, including the pantyhose option, is
that in fast current, ya better grip your net with both hands. I've had
better luck with an aquarium net, but it is not as convenient. Have to
stuff it in the back portion of the vest, and seem to always need to take
of the vest to get it out.


I took a medium sized aquarium net and cut and bent the wire frame to a
shape and size that fits in my largest front vest pocket. I took the
handle off completely so I ended up with just a rectangle of wire and the
net itself ... works pretty darn well for the top foot or so of the water
column. To sample the bottom I think you pretty much have to have a two
dowels and window screening deal, made stoutly to hold up to the current. I
have a commercially made folding net designed to sample the bottom but it is
usable only in slow waters. I have yet to find a good way to sample
stillwaters ( at the depth and in the areas most often fished)

The turn a rock over method yields lots of interesting finds but never seems
to please me ... I want to know what is actually drifting in the current,
not hiding from that current. For the same reason I try to sample without
disturbing the bottom upstream of the net as is oft suggested .... I don't
plan on doing the SJShuffle out there so who cares what I can kick up? (
The kick it up and check it out method CAN help you learn about what's in
the stream for future reference, but not what's available NOW to Mr. Fishy )

Lastly, but not leastly, if you are planning to drift a nymph through the
chest deep pockets don't assume the bugs in ankle deep water are the same
ones as out there. I tend to seek out and fish waters with lots of 'micro
ecologies' and I'm in heaven when different fish in a small area are taking
different food forms, it makes the fishing an intellectual challenge, rather
than just stick waving exercise. But I think all waters have more
variation than uniformity from water type to water type ... hell that's the
'why' in why we study this **** ...

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 16:52:59 GMT, "Larry L"
wrote:


"Dave Mohnsen" wrote

Problem I have with the insect nets, including the pantyhose option, is
that in fast current, ya better grip your net with both hands. I've had
better luck with an aquarium net, but it is not as convenient. Have to
stuff it in the back portion of the vest, and seem to always need to take
of the vest to get it out.


I took a medium sized aquarium net and cut and bent the wire frame to a
shape and size that fits in my largest front vest pocket. I took the
handle off completely so I ended up with just a rectangle of wire and the
net itself ... works pretty darn well for the top foot or so of the water
column.

Here's a way to build a cheapy sampling system with some PVC, cord,
wire, and some suitable netting (such as the pantyhose) that will work
under a lot of conditions. The general idea is a flexible net that can
be retracted into a tube, with the tube being the delivery and retrieval
device/storage system.

Take a length of PVC pipe - any diameter above 1" - 1 1/2" and any
length more than about 18" long, but using diameter wide enough and
length long enough for a rod tube/wading staff makes it a multi-purpose
item and allows greater reach/depth. Glue threaded male adaptors on
each end if you wish to be able to cap both ends, or a male on one end
and a standard hub-type coupler on the other if you don't care about
capping the net end. You can also just sand a smooth bevel on the net
end. However you do it, I'd recommend not simply leaving a square-cut
end, and the coupler is cheap, easy, and sure, and I'd also recommend
not using a glued-on cap on cord end - as always, YMMV.

Take a wire shirt hanger or similar wire and form a diamond shape (this
is important - other shapes won't work as well, if at all) with a
"tail"/two tag ends - picture the wire hanger when pulled from the
center of the crossmember and the hook. Use wire stiff enough to hold a
shape, but flexible enough to "fold" into the tube without a lot of
force. This will be the net frame. Attach a length of sturdy braided
nylon or similar cord at least 2-3x the length of the tube to the "tail"
of the wire net frame, making sure there are no wire "barbs" to snag on
things. Cover the wire frame with appropriate material - the
aforementioned pantyhose is probably the best overall choice in this
case.

Take a threaded male cap and drill a hole slightly larger in diameter
than the cord and thread the cord through the tube and through the cap.
Thread the cap on tube and retract the net into the tube until the net
is in the tube and the end is just at the end opposite the now-capped
end. Mark the cord at the capped end, pull the cord out of the
non-capped end, and make a large stopper knot slightly below the mark.
Pull the net frame out so it is almost, but not completely, out of the
tube and put a witness mark on the cord. This will take some individual
"tuning" as different materials and water/current conditions will vary
how much of the frame can/should be exposed, hence the witness mark
rather than a knot. The general idea is to get the tube, with the net
just far out of the tube enough to collect, but not so far as to have it
adrift in the current. If one wanted to get fancier, things like
weights, diving foils/wings, etc. can be added for particular
situations.

HTH,
R

In article ,
writes
On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 16:52:59 GMT, "Larry L"
wrote:


"Dave Mohnsen" wrote

Problem I have with the insect nets, including the pantyhose option, is
that in fast current, ya better grip your net with both hands. I've had
better luck with an aquarium net, but it is not as convenient. Have to
stuff it in the back portion of the vest, and seem to always need to take
of the vest to get it out.


I took a medium sized aquarium net and cut and bent the wire frame to a
shape and size that fits in my largest front vest pocket. I took the
handle off completely so I ended up with just a rectangle of wire and the
net itself ... works pretty darn well for the top foot or so of the water
column.

Here's a way to build a cheapy sampling system with some PVC, cord,
wire, and some suitable netting (such as the pantyhose) that will work
under a lot of conditions. The general idea is a flexible net that can
be retracted into a tube, with the tube being the delivery and retrieval
device/storage system.

Take a length of PVC pipe - any diameter above 1" - 1 1/2" and any
length more than about 18" long, but using diameter wide enough and
length long enough for a rod tube/wading staff makes it a multi-purpose
item and allows greater reach/depth. Glue threaded male adaptors on
each end if you wish to be able to cap both ends, or a male on one end
and a standard hub-type coupler on the other if you don't care about
capping the net end. You can also just sand a smooth bevel on the net
end. However you do it, I'd recommend not simply leaving a square-cut
end, and the coupler is cheap, easy, and sure, and I'd also recommend
not using a glued-on cap on cord end - as always, YMMV.

Take a wire shirt hanger or similar wire and form a diamond shape (this
is important - other shapes won't work as well, if at all) with a
"tail"/two tag ends - picture the wire hanger when pulled from the
center of the crossmember and the hook. Use wire stiff enough to hold a
shape, but flexible enough to "fold" into the tube without a lot of
force. This will be the net frame. Attach a length of sturdy braided
nylon or similar cord at least 2-3x the length of the tube to the "tail"
of the wire net frame, making sure there are no wire "barbs" to snag on
things. Cover the wire frame with appropriate material - the
aforementioned pantyhose is probably the best overall choice in this
case.

Take a threaded male cap and drill a hole slightly larger in diameter
than the cord and thread the cord through the tube and through the cap.
Thread the cap on tube and retract the net into the tube until the net
is in the tube and the end is just at the end opposite the now-capped
end. Mark the cord at the capped end, pull the cord out of the
non-capped end, and make a large stopper knot slightly below the mark.
Pull the net frame out so it is almost, but not completely, out of the
tube and put a witness mark on the cord. This will take some individual
"tuning" as different materials and water/current conditions will vary
how much of the frame can/should be exposed, hence the witness mark
rather than a knot. The general idea is to get the tube, with the net
just far out of the tube enough to collect, but not so far as to have it
adrift in the current. If one wanted to get fancier, things like
weights, diving foils/wings, etc. can be added for particular
situations.

HTH,
R

A picture tells a thousand words - springs to mind ;-)
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk

"W. D. Grey" wrote in message
...

A picture tells a thousand words...

True, true......but the arrangement is not necessarily reciprocal.

Wolfgang
who firmly believes that some pictures are too scary to look at......let
alone describe.

A picture is worth a thousand words but one girl is worth a thousand
pictures.

"BJ Conner" wrote in message
ups.com...
A picture is worth a thousand words but one girl is worth a thousand
pictures.

astonishingly profound.

yfitons
wayno

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 22:45:28 +0100, "W. D. Grey"
wrote:

In article ,
writes
On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 16:52:59 GMT, "Larry L"
wrote:


"Dave Mohnsen" wrote

Problem I have with the insect nets, including the pantyhose option, is
that in fast current, ya better grip your net with both hands. I've had
better luck with an aquarium net, but it is not as convenient. Have to
stuff it in the back portion of the vest, and seem to always need to take
of the vest to get it out.


I took a medium sized aquarium net and cut and bent the wire frame to a
shape and size that fits in my largest front vest pocket. I took the
handle off completely so I ended up with just a rectangle of wire and the
net itself ... works pretty darn well for the top foot or so of the water
column.

Here's a way to build a cheapy sampling system with some PVC, cord,
wire, and some suitable netting (such as the pantyhose) that will work
under a lot of conditions. The general idea is a flexible net that can
be retracted into a tube, with the tube being the delivery and retrieval
device/storage system.

Take a length of PVC pipe - any diameter above 1" - 1 1/2" and any
length more than about 18" long, but using diameter wide enough and
length long enough for a rod tube/wading staff makes it a multi-purpose
item and allows greater reach/depth. Glue threaded male adaptors on
each end if you wish to be able to cap both ends, or a male on one end
and a standard hub-type coupler on the other if you don't care about
capping the net end. You can also just sand a smooth bevel on the net
end. However you do it, I'd recommend not simply leaving a square-cut
end, and the coupler is cheap, easy, and sure, and I'd also recommend
not using a glued-on cap on cord end - as always, YMMV.

Take a wire shirt hanger or similar wire and form a diamond shape (this
is important - other shapes won't work as well, if at all) with a
"tail"/two tag ends - picture the wire hanger when pulled from the
center of the crossmember and the hook. Use wire stiff enough to hold a
shape, but flexible enough to "fold" into the tube without a lot of
force. This will be the net frame. Attach a length of sturdy braided
nylon or similar cord at least 2-3x the length of the tube to the "tail"
of the wire net frame, making sure there are no wire "barbs" to snag on
things. Cover the wire frame with appropriate material - the
aforementioned pantyhose is probably the best overall choice in this
case.

Take a threaded male cap and drill a hole slightly larger in diameter
than the cord and thread the cord through the tube and through the cap.
Thread the cap on tube and retract the net into the tube until the net
is in the tube and the end is just at the end opposite the now-capped
end. Mark the cord at the capped end, pull the cord out of the
non-capped end, and make a large stopper knot slightly below the mark.
Pull the net frame out so it is almost, but not completely, out of the
tube and put a witness mark on the cord. This will take some individual
"tuning" as different materials and water/current conditions will vary
how much of the frame can/should be exposed, hence the witness mark
rather than a knot. The general idea is to get the tube, with the net
just far out of the tube enough to collect, but not so far as to have it
adrift in the current. If one wanted to get fancier, things like
weights, diving foils/wings, etc. can be added for particular
situations.

HTH,
R

A picture tells a thousand words - springs to mind ;-)

That's one of those expressions that makes questions spring to mind...I
mean, is a picture worth anything to, oh, say, Stevie Wonder? And is an
out-of-focus digital picture worth a thousand words, too? A thousand of
Longfellow's words? Burns' words? Burroughs' words? Just who is in
charge of the exchange rate scheme? For example, are 1000 "English"
words worth the same as 1000 "Canadian" words in exchange for
Europictures? How about a high-quality film picture of the Mona Lisa as
compared to 1000 random words from a Swedish-to-Farsi dictionary? And,
of course, such questions simply beg other questions, such as "Are there
any Swedish-to-Farsi dictionaries, and if so, just how good are they?"
And is it JUST "words," or do acronyms kinda-sorta count, and in either
case, does the language count? And what about grammar and spelling?
And what about words in "dead" languages? Would 1000 random Aramaic
words be worth as much as 1000 Middle French words as compared to a
picture of a perfect rose...or Angelina Jolie neckid as a jaybird?

HTH,
R