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Anti reverse AND direct drive?



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 7th, 2006, 08:39 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default Anti reverse AND direct drive?

Calif Bill wrote:
You should adjust the drag for the line, and not touch it again. If it is
adusted properly, why adjust it? Unless the fish is going to spool you, and
it is a last desparate effort, more fish are lost because of somebody
deciding the drag is wrong during the fight.


I disagree. If you're fishing heavy tippet and the drag is adjusted to
that strength, it's hard to strip line from the reel. A tight drag also
interferes with the hookup. If I hook up on a big fish I'll first try to
get it on the reel (with plenty of bend in the rod), and then I'll
tighten the drag.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #2  
Old February 7th, 2006, 09:34 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Default Anti reverse AND direct drive?


"rw" wrote in message
nk.net...
Calif Bill wrote:
You should adjust the drag for the line, and not touch it again. If it
is adusted properly, why adjust it? Unless the fish is going to spool
you, and it is a last desparate effort, more fish are lost because of
somebody deciding the drag is wrong during the fight.


I disagree. If you're fishing heavy tippet and the drag is adjusted to
that strength, it's hard to strip line from the reel. A tight drag also
interferes with the hookup. If I hook up on a big fish I'll first try to
get it on the reel (with plenty of bend in the rod), and then I'll tighten
the drag.

--


Yes, and this is what the Marryat Plus is all about:

You preset the drag fairly low to be able to easily strip off the line and
ready for the hookup and first run or two, then you start squeezing the
handle allowing you to pump the rod and retrieve line. If you feel the fish
is going to take another run you simple release the pressure of your finger
tips. However if the fish starts to get tired you squeeze the handle again
and you can force the fish in.

During all of this action, your hand always remained on the handle therefore
you can concentrate in front where the action is and no fumbling to adjust
the preset drag knob which is in the center of the reel.

Marryat,

Roger Ritter
Inventor of the Marryat Plus


For more information:
www.marryat.com



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  #3  
Old February 7th, 2006, 11:13 PM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Posts: n/a
Default Anti reverse AND direct drive?


"Roger Ritter" wrote in message
...

"rw" wrote in message
nk.net...
Calif Bill wrote:
You should adjust the drag for the line, and not touch it again. If it
is adusted properly, why adjust it? Unless the fish is going to spool
you, and it is a last desparate effort, more fish are lost because of
somebody deciding the drag is wrong during the fight.


I disagree. If you're fishing heavy tippet and the drag is adjusted to
that strength, it's hard to strip line from the reel. A tight drag also
interferes with the hookup. If I hook up on a big fish I'll first try to
get it on the reel (with plenty of bend in the rod), and then I'll
tighten the drag.

--


Yes, and this is what the Marryat Plus is all about:

You preset the drag fairly low to be able to easily strip off the line and
ready for the hookup and first run or two, then you start squeezing the
handle allowing you to pump the rod and retrieve line. If you feel the
fish is going to take another run you simple release the pressure of your
finger tips. However if the fish starts to get tired you squeeze the
handle again and you can force the fish in.

During all of this action, your hand always remained on the handle
therefore you can concentrate in front where the action is and no fumbling
to adjust the preset drag knob which is in the center of the reel.



Roger Ritter


Hm......

How about a winch.......how much do you get for a simple 1 ton winch?

Wolfgang
who already has all the clorox® he needs.


  #4  
Old February 8th, 2006, 03:44 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
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Posts: n/a
Default Anti reverse AND direct drive?

Roger Ritter wrote:
"rw" wrote in message
nk.net...

I disagree. If you're fishing heavy tippet and the drag is adjusted to
that strength, it's hard to strip line from the reel. A tight drag also
interferes with the hookup. If I hook up on a big fish I'll first try to
get it on the reel (with plenty of bend in the rod), and then I'll tighten
the drag.

--



Yes, and this is what the Marryat Plus is all about:


I don't know anything about the Marryat Plus, but I'd be more than happy
to try one. It sounds marvelous. There's a trip coming up in May that
would be perfect -- big dogs. I can send you my mailing address if
necessary. :-)

I want to be more clear about why a tight drag interferes with the
hookup. Normally, it doesn't really, because normally you hookup with
some slack line. The problem arises when the slack line is played out,
or reeled in, and you get the fish on the reel. A tight drag causes a
shock -- a spike in the stress on the tippet. Shocks are what you must
avoid. Shocks cause break offs and pull outs and rod breakages. That's
why your rod should be well bent over (but not too far bent over) when
you get the fish on the reel -- it absorbs the shock.

I'd rather palm the reel when I get the fish onto it, and then tighten
the drag. Maybe the Marryat Plus makes that approach obsolete.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #5  
Old February 8th, 2006, 08:22 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.fly
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Anti reverse AND direct drive?


I disagree. If you're fishing heavy tippet and the drag is adjusted to
that strength, it's hard to strip line from the reel. A tight drag also
interferes with the hookup. If I hook up on a big fish I'll first try to
get it on the reel (with plenty of bend in the rod), and then I'll
tighten the drag.

--



Yes, and this is what the Marryat Plus is all about:


I don't know anything about the Marryat Plus, but I'd be more than happy
to try one. It sounds marvelous. There's a trip coming up in May that
would be perfect -- big dogs. I can send you my mailing address if
necessary. :-)

I want to be more clear about why a tight drag interferes with the hookup.
Normally, it doesn't really, because normally you hookup with some slack
line. The problem arises when the slack line is played out, or reeled in,
and you get the fish on the reel. A tight drag causes a shock -- a spike
in the stress on the tippet. Shocks are what you must avoid. Shocks cause
break offs and pull outs and rod breakages. That's why your rod should be
well bent over (but not too far bent over) when you get the fish on the
reel -- it absorbs the shock.

I'd rather palm the reel when I get the fish onto it, and then tighten the
drag. Maybe the Marryat Plus makes that approach obsolete.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.


You can squeeze the handle progressively, the more you squeeze the more you
drag. It's not like an on/off system; therefore you don't need to palm the
reel anymore. However the Marryat Plus comes with rim control for those who
are used to palming and need time to get used to squeezing the handle.

Another big advantage is if you are pumping the rod by squeezing the handle
and cranking the line and suddenly the fish make a huge jump and starts
shaking his head, you simple release the fingertip pressure and the drag
instantly goes back to the preset low setting and instead of causing a shock
as described above the line is released from the spool and once the
situation has calmed down you start squeezing and pumping again.

Marryat,

Roger Ritter
Inventor of the Marryat Plus


For more information:
www.marryat.com




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