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#1
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![]() I am new to flyfishing and after taking a lesson and practising for hours at the park I thought I had a reasonable handle on casting, at least to the point that I wasn't wrapping the line around my neck and embedding a hook in the back of my head. My instructor showed me how to haul on the front and back false casts to build up line speed and then "shoot" the line on the final foward cast. This works a treat at the park because the line gathered around my feet snakes off down the rod until it bumps the reel softly at which point I lay the line down and presto. But alas, there are no trout in the grass. When I try the same technique while standing in the river, the excess line is swept downstream behind me in a large loop. There is a lot of weight on the line from the water pressure and I have to really pull on the line to recover any of it when I'm hauling and releasing on the false casts. I can forget about shooting because there is no way I can build up enough line speed to counter the water pressure on the excess line. Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Cheers. |
#2
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I would initially forget about hauling until you have the basics-
the 11:00 stop, 1:00stop , 11:00 stop and down to point at your fly - rhythm and pattern down and the line is constantly in the air either forming the back loop or unfurling for the front loop Later on when you want to increase your casts worry about hauling . Get the basic casting pattern down first. Also keep down the # of false casts - they are only to let out a "manageable" amt of fly line I hope that this helps. Sincerely Fred I am new to flyfishing and after taking a lesson and practising for hours at the park I thought I had a reasonable handle on casting, at least to the point that I wasn't wrapping the line around my neck and embedding a hook in the back of my head. My instructor showed me how to haul on the front and back false casts to build up line speed and then "shoot" the line on the final foward cast. This works a treat at the park because the line gathered around my feet snakes off down the rod until it bumps the reel softly at which point I lay the line down and presto. But alas, there are no trout in the grass. When I try the same technique while standing in the river, the excess line is swept downstream behind me in a large loop. There is a lot of weight on the line from the water pressure and I have to really pull on the line to recover any of it when I'm hauling and releasing on the false casts. I can forget about shooting because there is no way I can build up enough line speed to counter the water pressure on the excess line. Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Cheers. |
#3
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Wolf wrote:
I am new to flyfishing and after taking a lesson and practising for hours at the park I thought I had a reasonable handle on casting, at least to the point that I wasn't wrapping the line around my neck and embedding a hook in the back of my head. My instructor showed me how to haul on the front and back false casts to build up line speed and then "shoot" the line on the final foward cast. This works a treat at the park because the line gathered around my feet snakes off down the rod until it bumps the reel softly at which point I lay the line down and presto. But alas, there are no trout in the grass. When I try the same technique while standing in the river, the excess line is swept downstream behind me in a large loop. There is a lot of weight on the line from the water pressure and I have to really pull on the line to recover any of it when I'm hauling and releasing on the false casts. I can forget about shooting because there is no way I can build up enough line speed to counter the water pressure on the excess line. Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Instead of letting the slack line drift downstream in the current, keep the excess line in large loops in your left hand (assuming you're a right-handed caster). With practice, you can shoot a loop on the backcast and the forward cast, and maybe two loops on the final forward cast. It's not easy, but it can be done. You could also try a stripping basket, but that's cheating. :-) -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
#4
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![]() "Wolf" wrote in message ups.com... Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Figuring out how to manage your line on the water mostly takes experience. But basically on land you're probably casting farther than you really need to. I make a lot of 15-30' casts when actually fishing. 15 feet of line is pretty easy to control. |
#5
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On 17 Sep 2006 13:43:12 -0700, "Wolf"
wrote: Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Learn how to cast before you learn how to haul. Most fish are caught within 20 - 30 feet of where you are standing; no need to haul to achieve that distance. Hauling is great when you need to punch out a lot of line, i.e., surf casting, or lobbing big streamers, or when fishing in high winds. However, as I've said, for your typical fresh water fly fishing, whether it be with nymphs, dries, wets, or streamers, the double haul isn't necessary. You should be able to cast 50 feet without it, and 50 foot casts just aren't that necessary *most* of the time. My oldest grandsons can double haul just about the entire fly line (about 90 feet), and they do it simply because they *can*. When they stop fooling around, they catch their fish within 10 - 30 feet of where they stand, just like their grand daddy. Dave |
#6
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"Wolf" wrote in message
ups.com... My instructor showed me how to haul on the front and back false casts to build up line speed and then "shoot" the line on the final foward cast. . . . When I try the same technique while standing in the river, the excess line is swept downstream behind me in a large loop. There is a lot of weight on the line from the water pressure and I have to really pull on the line to recover any of it when I'm hauling and releasing on the false casts. I can forget about shooting because there is no way I can build up enough line speed to counter the water pressure on the excess line. Before you shoot line (i.e. add mass to the airborne line) you should practice orthodox casting until it becomes instinctive, so that your muscles and nerves are retrained to place the fly exactly where you intend without thought how this should be done. This process of training requires careful line control (holding the line in your non-rod hand) so the mass of airborne line does not change (until you release it on the forward cast for that extra yard and the most gentle presentation.) Timing is the essence and timing usually deteriorates with repetition. So you should not false cast more than twice except by deliberate decision and for a conscious reason (e.g. to place the fly on a particular target.) -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
#7
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![]() "Wolf" wrote in message ups.com... I am new to flyfishing and after taking a lesson and practising for hours at the park I thought I had a reasonable handle on casting, at least to the point that I wasn't wrapping the line around my neck and embedding a hook in the back of my head. My instructor showed me how to haul on the front and back false casts to build up line speed and then "shoot" the line on the final foward cast. This works a treat at the park because the line gathered around my feet snakes off down the rod until it bumps the reel softly at which point I lay the line down and presto. But alas, there are no trout in the grass. When I try the same technique while standing in the river, the excess line is swept downstream behind me in a large loop. There is a lot of weight on the line from the water pressure and I have to really pull on the line to recover any of it when I'm hauling and releasing on the false casts. I can forget about shooting because there is no way I can build up enough line speed to counter the water pressure on the excess line. Should I fish from the bank so the line stays dry, or is there a technique for this? I'm using a floating line. Cheers. All of those tips were very useful, it shows this group can all pull together when necessary. I would also recommend forgetting about the hauling for now and concentrate on the presentation of the fly within 20-35 ft. One of the items missing in presentation that I didn't see is the "mend", you may want to do a search on this matter and practice it in the moving current. There is no need to fish on the bank to keep the line dry. The line will float even when wet. As far as casting it makes no different whether the line is wet or dry. The weight on line from the water is common. To compensate this, "raise the rod" before you pick it up the line. The line should be free from drag before you can make the start of the backcast. One of the cast I use the most is the "roll cast". If your instructor hadn't shown you this, you may want to learn it. fwiw, -tom I |
#8
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![]() Hi All, Thank you for your responses, I really appreciate all the advice. I think I'm trying to cast too much line at once with too many false casts. It might be a leftover instinct from spinning, where the basic idea is that further you cast the better. I'll try working with less line and getting the basic casting rythm with a couple of false casts instead of trying to fish the entire length of the river with one cast. Good luck out there! "My biggest worry is that my wife (when I'm dead) will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it." -Koos Brandt |
#9
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![]() I'll try working with less line and getting the basic casting rythm with a couple of false casts instead of trying to fish the entire length of the river with one cast. A great teacher I took a lesson from would always say was "fish the water closest to you first" this is something else that gets overlooked when attempting hero casts. There could be a big fish 7ft from you that you're going to scare away. -Will |
#10
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In article ,
"Fred Lebow" wrote: I would initially forget about hauling until you have the basics- the 11:00 stop, 1:00stop , 11:00 stop and down to point at your fly - rhythm and pattern down and the line is constantly in the air either forming the back loop or unfurling for the front loop 11-1-11 huh? How fast is your rod? I dont know how well that would work with a slow dry fly rod?? |
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