![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 14 Feb 2007 04:34:35 -0600, "Rodger"
wrote: I live in SW Missouri and have access to a number of ponds loaded with bluegill, crappie, bass and channel cat, all of which I catch with an inexpensive 6 wt.,8.5 ft. Bass Pro White River Classic (my first rod) and a cheap Medalist reel. I agree with a prev. poster on getting a good WF line. I didn't see anyone recommend a WF, and speaking for myself, I'd recommend against it for many, esp. those who plan on limiting it to bluegill and bass. It's a waste of money. Get a DT, wear one end out learning, reverse it, and fish away. And when you wear that out, get another DT. I rarely use a tapered leader but instead use plain mono (4 or 6 lb.) and sometimes tie my own tapered leader for better 'turn over' when casting. A lot of folks down South (S. LA, MS, AL, and N. FL) go the "mono leader" route when fishing with a flyrod for "brim" (bream) and it works well. If the OP chooses that route, I'd suggest 4lb. Spiderwire for the bluegills. And a lot of those same folks only use a flyrod for "brim" - nothing else - but don't really "flyfish" - it's more of cross between dapping and jigging, so even if one tries true "flyfishing" and doesn't enjoy that, but does enjoy "brim" fishing, they'd still have a perfectly usable fishing tool. WalMart has a pre-made fly that looks like a black spider....black chenille body, white rubber band legs and a little tuft of grey squirrel tail hair at the head. It works great for all the species mentioned above. I now tie the same fly in various sizes for warm water fishing everywhere. This is an easy fly to tie, especially as a 'first fly'. I sometimes (in fact often) weight the fly with a little lead wire and put a small dot of red paint on the head to indicate amount of weight...one dot, two dots, etc. I suspect we are not far off in latitude so I would expect the bluegill and other fish to really start turning-on in about mid April and from then on until mid to late June. The absolute best time for bluegill is when they are nesting, indicated by dinner plate sized depressions on the bottom near the shoreline starting at about 1 ft. of water...on out and you can usually see the bluegill hanging out around the nest. If I might suggest, try a red chenille body. I've caught a fair amount of "brim" with a Royal Coachman wet. Long story shortened, it happened to be handy, I discovered it actually worked really well, and so, I tend not to fix what ain't broke. I don't whip up RCs for bream, but if I happen upon a bunch of cheap, crappy (not crappie) ones, tyed ala "trout fly assortment" style on larger hooks, I snag 'em (no pun intended). Really, though, whatever the fly, I try red first. As far as casting goes, certainly follow the suggestions made by the previous posters. I would only add that if you have any snow at all it makes a pretty good surface on which to practice as the snow will not abrade your line, Um, depending on the snow, it could well abrade the line. That said, however, so can "grass." If the OP or any other novice splurges on an expensive line, save it for the water (a big swimming pool can be a good practice area _IF_ there are _NO_ people around). Cheaper or old lines make the most economical practice lines, but one newly kitting out has no choice - IMO, again, the 333. will not catch your practice fly on grass, etc., OK, look - how many ways can it be said? NEVER, EVER PRACTICE WITH A FLY THAT HAS A HOOK (OR PRACTICE WITHOUT GLASSES, EVEN WITH WHIFFS)! It's dangerous and it's completely unnecessary. If you've never been hooked, trust me, you want to keep it that way, and one in eye is not something with which to tempt fate. You (probably) don't want to hook yourself, and even if you do, nobody else wants to have themselves or their stuff hooked by you. When you're practicing, you're turning your head, watching your line, etc., potentially lots of aerial stuff. Anyone, novice or advanced, with any sense whatsoever knows they aren't going to catch anything, so why use a hook - NO ****ING HOOKS WHEN PRACTICING. TC, R and will give at least a little drag on your line as you pick it up thus allowing your rod to 'load' for the next cast. If you can beg, borrow or rent a video on basic fly casting it will help a lot. Buff |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Questions about the Shimano TX-130 | Neils | General Discussion | 0 | July 12th, 2005 11:51 AM |
My new Boat - Questions | Todd Copeland | Bass Fishing | 5 | April 8th, 2005 03:31 PM |
3 questions | Joe McIntosh | Fly Fishing | 49 | September 9th, 2004 08:20 PM |
Again with the geek questions | Mike Connor | Fly Fishing | 0 | February 2nd, 2004 02:07 AM |