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On 6 Aug 2007 12:32:28 GMT, Scott Seidman
wrote: wrote in news:lqq7b3t8vtds44jt73alhjh2o4or93evqu@ 4ax.com: If you want to lathe a grip, make a new one on a mandrel and install it on the rod. Hey, as always, YMMV. Why would you give up a tight ring-by-ring custom fit? OK...why? Seriously, as far as the exterior finish, I'd offer it is pretty clear that it would make no difference whatsoever as to where the cork is sanded - blank or mandrel. As to the rings fitting together, again, it makes no difference. Now, if the mandrel is larger than the blank, that would be a problem, but as long as the mandrel is the same size or slightly smaller to allow for a final rasping, one would not be able to tell the difference by use or appearance. Some think a mandrel is the way to go because if there is a tear-/chunk-out or void, you don't need to remove the "oops" from the blank, plus, you don't risk damaging the blank or a ferrule in a lathe. Others don't worry about it. IMO, both ways are equally "correct" as it is simply a matter of personal choice. On a grip replacement on a otherwise OK rod, I'd say guess is that most experienced repairers would choose to go with a mandrel rather than directly on an otherwise-fine finished butt section, but I don't claim that I _know_ that. I can say _my_ choice would be a mandrel or by hand. And as an aside, when I've used "lathe," I mean something set up as a rod-finishing lathe, not a wood-turning lathe. A rod "lathe" is a set-up to allow wrapping, grip _sanding_ (you don't finish a grip with skews, gouges, etc.), "varnish" distribution, etc., and the "average" wood-turning set-up is, IMO, not a substitute. And for the picky, yes, I'd agree that one could modify certain wood-turning lathes into something that would function as a rod lathe...and in only slightly less time than building a water pipeline from Colorado to Lake Wobegon... TC, R |
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On 6 Aug 2007 12:32:28 GMT, Scott Seidman
wrote: wrote in news:lqq7b3t8vtds44jt73alhjh2o4or93evqu@ 4ax.com: If you want to lathe a grip, make a new one on a mandrel and install it on the rod. Hey, as always, YMMV. Why would you give up a tight ring-by-ring custom fit? And as a further aside, doing the sanding on a mandrel would allow the use of simpler, and thus, a wider variety of wood-turning lathes because speed and chucking/centering/"holding" methods wouldn't be nearly the issue it would be with a rod section, finished or not. TC, R |
#4
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![]() Anyone have any information they care to share on how to hold that end - perfectly centered - without breaking it? My first inclination is to bore a tapered hole in a section of dowel and then cut two slots 90° to each other to make a compression fit vise and slide the ferrule end into the slightly tapered hole to hold that end. Not sure how much stress that would put on the ferrule and maybe crack. I would use non-marring steady rest to keep things from whipping but I'd be worried about heat build-up on the rod at that point and what may happen - like permanent damage. I did manage to get a couple of butt section ends from the Cortland Line factory store that they use to mount reels to for display but they don't have any ferrules on them - just a cut off section of the rod that extends beyond the cork about 5". I would use these to practice on first. Now I could always take the rod to a pro and have them do it and I just may have to, but first I'd like to see if I can't do it myself. Fly fishing is just not about catching fish for me - it's the journey. Thanks for your input, Bob S. Bob, Can you remove the butt cap of your rod with an alcohol burner? The heat should loosen the old glue/epoxy. Then insert a small piece of fly rod blank into the hollow end or your rod until snug leaving 4 or 5 inches protruding. Chuck up the protruding piece of rod blank into a 3/8 drill motor. Use 100 grit paper to shape your grip then some 220 to smooth/finish it off. You should be able to "freehand" this task, or use a V-block for support. Protect your reel seat and forward wraps with masking tape. Its not rocket science but it works well and is simple to do. Reattach the butt cap with some 5 minute epoxy. And, don't burn yourself. Good luck, Guy |
#5
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![]() Appreciate all the input, suggestions and words of wisdom. I won't go into all the details but I mentioned that I had two butt sections from Cortland that I could use as test pieces. A wood lathe is not a good choice to use for working on a new fly rod butt section. Let's just say that if I had placed my rod in that setup - it would be in pieces. Need a much slower speed than 350rpm. A motor control (Variac) would be one method to slow this lathe down but for a one time project....... not worth it. I'll be making a couple of V blocks with felt in the grooves to hold the rod while I manually turn and sand the next "test" section down to see how it turns out. Cork sands better than I was anticipating so I'll play with various grits but it looks like 100 grit will be the most aggressive then work up thru 220 for final shaping and finish. If it needs more than that, I have grits up to 600 but I doubt that I want to polish it.... Has anyone ever seen / handled a Winston rod with the Joan Wulff grip (JWF) ? Winston will send one to the local dealer so my wife can try it out but I'm wondering what it's like. Can't find a picture and the only description is a full-wells grip with a thumb depression. A full-wells grip has a rise on the front (and back) that is used for the thumb - making a depression there seems to negate the need for a full-wells type grip. You can see why I'm confused and I'll be damned if even Winston has a picture of one on their site.... Anyway - thanks to all that chimed in to offer their help. It is appreciated. Thanks, Bob S. |
#6
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![]() "BobS" wrote in message ... Anyway - thanks to all that chimed in to offer their help. It is appreciated. Thanks, Bob S. Bob to but in have you ever tried the Manifold ergonomic grips They look dreadful but as I have a few aches and pains in my hand I tested it I was amazed by the extra time I could spend before I had to rest up . Sorry if this is in the wrong place but thought it might help. John. |
#7
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![]() "John & Emma Whiteley" wrote in message ... "BobS" wrote in message ... Anyway - thanks to all that chimed in to offer their help. It is appreciated. Thanks, Bob S. Bob to but in have you ever tried the Manifold ergonomic grips They look dreadful but as I have a few aches and pains in my hand I tested it I was amazed by the extra time I could spend before I had to rest up . Sorry if this is in the wrong place but thought it might help. John. John, Thanks for the suggestion. I did a quick search on "Manifold ergonomic grips" and didn't come up with any relevant hits for fly fishing grips. I'll do some more searching but if you have a web site this could very well be of interest to many others. My concern for a smaller grip is due to the wife having small hands and a lighter rod with a small grip like the Winston - feels better. Ole Arthy-Ritis will certainly be a concern in the future since it's a family trait but for now - not a big problem. Thank you, Bob S. |
#8
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On Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:53:59 -0400, "BobS" wrote:
"John & Emma Whiteley" wrote in message ... "BobS" wrote in message ... Anyway - thanks to all that chimed in to offer their help. It is appreciated. Thanks, Bob S. Bob to but in have you ever tried the Manifold ergonomic grips They look dreadful but as I have a few aches and pains in my hand I tested it I was amazed by the extra time I could spend before I had to rest up . Sorry if this is in the wrong place but thought it might help. John. John, Thanks for the suggestion. I did a quick search on "Manifold ergonomic grips" and didn't come up with any relevant hits for fly fishing grips. I'll do some more searching but if you have a web site this could very well be of interest to many others. My concern for a smaller grip is due to the wife having small hands and a lighter rod with a small grip like the Winston - feels better. Ole Arthy-Ritis will certainly be a concern in the future since it's a family trait but for now - not a big problem. Thank you, Bob S. It's "maniform" - www.siestacorktiles.co.uk TC, R |
#9
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