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#11
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#12
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:39:44 GMT, Ken Fortenberry
wrote: wrote: Ken Fortenberry wrote: rw wrote: daytripper wrote: If you have the presence of mind, keep the rod tip low and use a line-hand set. This has the added advantage of keeping the fly in the immediate neighborhood of the fish, should you miss the initial set... /daytripper (highly useful when bonefeeshing) I call it a strip-strike -- very useful in sal****er flyfishing, but difficult to break that years-old trout-fishing habit of using the rod to set the hook. We're all describing the same thing and yeah, it's real hard not to lift the rod tip when you see your fly get hit. By now it's instinctive. I missed my first shot at a muskie and I imagine I'd do the same fool thing the first few times I ever tried to catch a bonefish. Have either of you tried long-shank circle hooks? They are essentially "self-setting" (keep tension on the line rather than "setting" the hook) and while they aren't appropriate (or necessary) for all quarry, they are useful for many of the "hard mouth" species. And if you intend to C & R, they greatly reduce gut- and deep-hooking. A Google search should turn up quite a bit of info on them - probably much of the info will be on the standard-shank "bait" models (for tuna, snapper, etc.), but the theory of operation is the same and Mustad, etc., makes 2X for flies. I've never tried circle hooks but from what I understand they're designed to embed in the roof of the mouth. That wouldn't work on a muskie because the roof of a muskie's mouth is all bone and damn near impossible to stick a hook in. No, they are designed to hook in the corner of the mouth. I think you'll find them in use for muskie. TC, R |
#13
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 11:29:25 -0500, Ken Fortenberry
wrote: wrote: Ken Fortenberry wrote: I've never tried circle hooks but from what I understand they're designed to embed in the roof of the mouth. That wouldn't work on a muskie because the roof of a muskie's mouth is all bone and damn near impossible to stick a hook in. No, they are designed to hook in the corner of the mouth. I think you'll find them in use for muskie. Interesting. Next time I'm in the fly shop in Boulder Junction I'll ask if anybody ties muskie flies on 'em. FWIW, I'd turn to Google rather than limit yourself to a particular shop as far as info. I just did, and you'll find quite a bit of info. From a _very_ quick glance at the results, circle hooks have a fair following (actually, more than I imagined) among muskie fishers. TC, R |
#15
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![]() wrote in message ... On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:21:32 -0500, Ken Fortenberry wrote: Have either of you tried long-shank circle hooks? They are essentially "self-setting" (keep tension on the line rather than "setting" the hook) and while they aren't appropriate (or necessary) for all quarry, they are useful for many of the "hard mouth" species. And if you intend to C & R, they greatly reduce gut- and deep-hooking. A Google search should turn up quite a bit of info on them - probably much of the info will be on the standard-shank "bait" models (for tuna, snapper, etc.), but the theory of operation is the same and Mustad, etc., makes 2X for flies. As to "muscle memory" and trying to set with the rod rather than the line, you might try simply spending some time "practice setting" immediately before you actually try to fish. TC, R I have no experience with circle hooks and Musky, but we used them while fishing for Halibut up in Alaska a couple years ago. They proved to be very effective. I had the same problem of not using the rod to set the hook, but letting the halibut take the bait and set the hook. They are designed to set the hook in the corner of the mouth (as you mentioned) when they turn after taking the bait. If you set the hook, it would just pull out of their mouth. It was difficult to hold back from setting the hook, similar to learning a sweep or line set on Musky. The first few bites, everyone yarded back on the rod to set the hook. Ultimately it was a great day, the boat limited and my buddy and I both landed 90 pounders. I had never thought about using the circle hooks on other species, but I don't see why they wouldn't work well... Thanks, JT |
#16
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On Aug 20, 9:58 am, "JT" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:21:32 -0500, Ken Fortenberry wrote: Have either of you tried long-shank circle hooks? They are essentially "self-setting" (keep tension on the line rather than "setting" the hook) and while they aren't appropriate (or necessary) for all quarry, they are useful for many of the "hard mouth" species. And if you intend to C & R, they greatly reduce gut- and deep-hooking. A Google search should turn up quite a bit of info on them - probably much of the info will be on the standard-shank "bait" models (for tuna, snapper, etc.), but the theory of operation is the same and Mustad, etc., makes 2X for flies. As to "muscle memory" and trying to set with the rod rather than the line, you might try simply spending some time "practice setting" immediately before you actually try to fish. TC, R I have no experience with circle hooks and Musky, but we used them while fishing for Halibut up in Alaska a couple years ago. They proved to be very effective. I had the same problem of not using the rod to set the hook, but letting the halibut take the bait and set the hook. They are designed to set the hook in the corner of the mouth (as you mentioned) when they turn after taking the bait. If you set the hook, it would just pull out of their mouth. It was difficult to hold back from setting the hook, similar to learning a sweep or line set on Musky. The first few bites, everyone yarded back on the rod to set the hook. Ultimately it was a great day, the boat limited and my buddy and I both landed 90 pounders. I had never thought about using the circle hooks on other species, but I don't see why they wouldn't work well... Thanks, JT I'll have to give these a try. I researched these on the Internet. They're supposed to be really good when used properly. But I gotta be honest, they look like they wouldn't hook anything. They look pretty weird with the point tucked in like that. |
#17
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On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 15:41:05 -0000, mdk77
wrote: On Aug 20, 9:58 am, "JT" wrote: wrote in message ... On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 08:21:32 -0500, Ken Fortenberry wrote: Have either of you tried long-shank circle hooks? They are essentially "self-setting" (keep tension on the line rather than "setting" the hook) and while they aren't appropriate (or necessary) for all quarry, they are useful for many of the "hard mouth" species. And if you intend to C & R, they greatly reduce gut- and deep-hooking. A Google search should turn up quite a bit of info on them - probably much of the info will be on the standard-shank "bait" models (for tuna, snapper, etc.), but the theory of operation is the same and Mustad, etc., makes 2X for flies. As to "muscle memory" and trying to set with the rod rather than the line, you might try simply spending some time "practice setting" immediately before you actually try to fish. TC, R I have no experience with circle hooks and Musky, but we used them while fishing for Halibut up in Alaska a couple years ago. They proved to be very effective. I had the same problem of not using the rod to set the hook, but letting the halibut take the bait and set the hook. They are designed to set the hook in the corner of the mouth (as you mentioned) when they turn after taking the bait. If you set the hook, it would just pull out of their mouth. It was difficult to hold back from setting the hook, similar to learning a sweep or line set on Musky. The first few bites, everyone yarded back on the rod to set the hook. Ultimately it was a great day, the boat limited and my buddy and I both landed 90 pounders. I had never thought about using the circle hooks on other species, but I don't see why they wouldn't work well... Thanks, JT I'll have to give these a try. I researched these on the Internet. They're supposed to be really good when used properly. But I gotta be honest, they look like they wouldn't hook anything. They look pretty weird with the point tucked in like that. With a circle hook, you don't set the hook, you simply maintain tension and the fish does the "setting." TC, R. |
#18
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There are no Muskies in any of the water I have fished I have fished in
Labrador and wanted to try Pike on a fly I used a short shank stainless steel salt water hook with a wide gap for the main hook. I used 30 lb test mono doubled to place a stinger hook with the point facing upward into the wing.as I wanted to build a long streamer style wing. I took a steel leader an cut the clip off the end leaving the swivel on the other end to tie the leader to. the leader was pulled through the eye of the hook toward the bend. I wrapped the thread along this keeping the steel leader straight on top of the shank back to the point of the hook. I brushed a layer of cement on the threads and left it to dry. Then I placed the mono on either side of the bulge made by the steel leader and pulled the extra piece of steel leader over the top and wrapped the thread forward to the eye then back to the point and onto the shank immediately behind the bulge left by this action. Tie in a pice of gold oval for a tag a silver oval for the rib and flat silver for the body. Wrap the tag first to fill in the lump made by the previous material then wrap the thread forward to the eyefollowed by the flat silver body and the oval silver rib. For the wing I used a Mickey Finn tied with the longer yellow bucktail over laid with long red bucktail then another layer of yellow with some of the brownish yellow on the top. I caught several pike with this fly which surprisingly turned over well on a four lb tippet. All the pike were caught as they turned with the fly seating it securely in the corner of the mouth. I also caught a five and a half lb speckled trout on the stinger hook. "jeffc" wrote in message ... Fly fishing for Musky - now that sounds like a tough row to hoe. |
#19
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"jim hill" wrote in message
news:aWUIi.67782$Pd4.32837@edtnps82... . . . I wanted to try Pike on a fly I used a short shank stainless steel salt water hook with a wide gap for the main hook. I used 30 lb test mono doubled to place a stinger hook with the point facing upward . . . I caught several pike with this fly which surprisingly turned over well on a four lb tippet. All the pike were caught as they turned with the fly seating it securely in the corner of the mouth. What size hooks (for both main and stinger) do you recommend? -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
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