Leaders

On Nov 19, 4:36 am, "rb608" wrote:
(The guy from Climad said
I have never boiled a leader, and would be
very worried that touching part of the leader against the hot pan may
seriously compromise the integrity of the leader, so I would have to advise
against doing so.


This guy should take a basic physical science class. The inside
surface of the pan is not demonstrably hotter than the water; the
water convects the heat away as fast as it is introduced. The Heat of
Vaporization prevents the water (or the surface of the pan) from
getting hotter than 100C until the water is gone. Ever boiled water in
a paper cup?

--riverman

On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 17:12:14 -0800 (PST), riverman
wrote:

Ever boiled water in
a paper cup?

Yep. Massachusetts Junior Wildlife Conservation Camp, 1950.

On Nov 18, 5:28 pm, Dave LaCourse wrote:
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 17:12:14 -0800 (PST), riverman

wrote:
Ever boiled water in
a paper cup?

Yep. Massachusetts Junior Wildlife Conservation Camp, 1950.

I think there is a microscopic layer of water that is super heated.
Not very think and not much above the triple point. Not usually a
problem in a pan boiled on a stovetopl Sometimes it goes to extreams
if you microwave a cup of water, put a spoon in it and it boils all
over and the counter. I have taken a cup out of the microwave and
added sugar when the first grains hit the cup it practically explodes.
Thermo 201 Heat Transfer 150 - long ago. 8^O]

"riverman" wrote in message
This guy should take a basic physical science class. The inside
surface of the pan is not demonstrably hotter than the water;

I took his meaning to avoid touching the part of the pot above the water
line, but yeak, the inside surface can't be above 212F for all practical
purposes.

Joe F.

On Nov 19, 10:27 am, "rb608" wrote:
"riverman" wrote in message
This guy should take a basic physical science class. The inside
surface of the pan is not demonstrably hotter than the water;

I took his meaning to avoid touching the part of the pot above the water
line, but yeak, the inside surface can't be above 212F for all practical
purposes.

Joe F.

I hadn't thought of that; its a good observation. If someone does boil
(or heat) their leaders, be sure not to bump the pan when you are
removing it.

And speaking of boiling leaders....that won't get me in trouble with
the Patriot Act, will it?

--riverman

On 19 Nov, 06:56, riverman wrote:
On Nov 19, 10:27 am, "rb608" wrote:

"riverman" wrote in message
This guy should take a basic physical science class. The inside
surface of the pan is not demonstrably hotter than the water;

I took his meaning to avoid touching the part of the pot above the water
line, but yeak, the inside surface can't be above 212F for all practical
purposes.

Joe F.

I hadn't thought of that; its a good observation. If someone does boil
(or heat) their leaders, be sure not to bump the pan when you are
removing it.

And speaking of boiling leaders....that won't get me in trouble with
the Patriot Act, will it?

--riverman

Most unlikely, most are pretty hard-boiled anyway.

With regard to not touching the sides of a pan etc. If you allow
materials in a dye pot near or at boiling point to touch the side of
the metal vessel, they will curl and singe. Why this is I don´t really
know, as it is theoretically impossible for the inside vessel side to
be much hotter than its contents. Which is why you can boil water over
a fire in orange peel, or coconut shells, which would otherwise simply
burn. If you do this the materials WILL singe and curl though.

To reiterate once again, I don´t boil my leaders, and I don´t advocate
anybody else doing it. But placing them in hot water is harmless. The
water only needs to be hand hot to achieve your objective here,
( straightening the leader, and making it limp), so it does not
matter whether the leader touches the sides of the container or not.

TL
MC

One other point regarding the above, a sharp "tug" will remove coiling
from line that has not had its shape ( New line for instance) for very
long. But is also shock loads the line, and is not a good idea in fine
tippet. Fine nylon will be compromised by this.

Most especially if you do this with fluorocarbon tippet for instance,
it causes stress faults at the point where you held the line while
tugging it, actually increasing the memory at these points, and on
coated lines it can compromise the coating, which in turn compromises
the knot strength.

The main advantages of heating the line in water, is that no shock
loading takes place, it is not stretched, and no particular point on
the line is subjected to specific thermal or other stress.

TL
MC

Something else here as well. The main reason for excessive coiling on
spooled nylon is because it was stretched while spooling. The nylon
tries to return to its original no non-stretched state, and the
resulting compression on the spool can easily crush or deform it. This
was once a severe problem on multiplying and other reels used for
long casting heavy leads. The secondary result is that such nylon
takes on extreme coiling. This can be so bad that is more or less
impossible to cast with it.

There is no point in heating nylon on a spool!!!! This will have the
reverse effect, and program the coiling!

It only works when the nylon is heated, and allowed to cool in its
normal unstretched state while being held straight. Very light tension
may be used, but any strong stretching should be avoided.

I´m sorry, but I don´t know why it should be disadvantageous to touch
the nylon with the fingers while spooling up. I imagine this has to do
with friction burns, but I don´t know. Tackle shops all use a metal or
ceramic ring for guiding nylon on to spools when using high speed
spoolers.

Ordinarily, when winding line on to a reel, using your fingers to
spread the line evenly is the only option, ( except on reels equipped
with level winds, or oscillating systems), and I have never noticed
any detrimental effects as a result.

TL
MC