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#1
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rustyspinner wrote:
ugh, can't fugure out how to edit my post. Tom, try the above also. The formula for the 5x to the right got moved too far left for the tippet. 5X: .015.... 18-19" (maxima) .013-----18-19" (maxima) .044-----18-19" (maxima) .009-----18-19" (maxima) 4X-------15" (super strong or whatever) 5X-------36" (super strong or whatever) You can go to 6X by cutting down the 5X to 12" You can go to 7X by cutting down the above 6X to 10-12" Hope that helps to clarify. The 4X formula is fairly readable. Just follow it down. Man, you guys are really uptight about your leaders. Was it you that wrote that knotted leaders turn over better than knotless because the knots are "power transmitters," or something like that? That's absurd. It's not physical. Makes no sense at all. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
#2
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![]() Man, you guys are really uptight about your leaders. Was it you that wrote that knotted leaders turn over better than knotless because the knots are "power transmitters," or something like that? That's absurd. It's not physical. Makes no sense at all. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I have tried the knotless many times for dry flies and have always found a well tied, compound leader to be more accurate. It has to do with the energy transfer of a larger diameter section producing sufficient force to carry into the next section, which can also be of a softer grade. It has nothing to do with the knots. I know it doesn't seem to make sense, but it does. It's the same thing as a "Garrison" (compound) tapered bamboo fly rod being more efficient and accurate than a "single" taper. Another reason I posted this formula was because this leader has a 36" tippet, which will cause far less surface drag than the more standard 18" tippet. There is also drag that the fisherman cannot see, but the fish can. This is sometimes termed "micro-drag," and often causes refusals. I still use the knotless for nymphs, and use a shorter leader for that, usually 7 to 9 foot. I'll even use 'em for a large bushy fly on a small creek, no big deal. But that's a different presentation entirely than the more "technical" fishing, with oftentimes a tiny dry fly on complex, gin-clear braided currents, like on a Limestoner. This formula was also developed by an old-timer who specialized in limestone creeks. -- rustyspinner ------------------------------------------------------------------------ rustyspinner's Profile: http://www.njflyfishing.com/vBulleti...php?userid=641 View this thread: http://www.njflyfishing.com/vBulleti...ad.php?t=13829 ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#3
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rustyspinner wrote:
Man, you guys are really uptight about your leaders. Was it you that wrote that knotted leaders turn over better than knotless because the knots are "power transmitters," or something like that? That's absurd. It's not physical. Makes no sense at all. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I have tried the knotless many times for dry flies and have always found a well tied, compound leader to be more accurate. It has to do with the energy transfer of a larger diameter section producing sufficient force to carry into the next section, which can also be of a softer grade. It has nothing to do with the knots. OK, an advantage in having a transition to a softer-grade section is at least plausible. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
#4
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![]() "rw" wrote OK, an advantage in having a transition to a softer-grade section is at least plausible. For the nearly nothing it's worth, I've given "Harvey Style" knotted leaders serious testing over the years. They are very nice casting ( dry fly 'techy water' ) but I've given up on them. The bad side effects of all those knots outweighs the slightly better casting ... for me ... the worst bad effects revolve mainly around knots picking up weed ( always a problem after early season in fertile creeks, sometimes THE problem on HFork with its heavy growths combined with varying, dam controlled flows ) IMHO, anybody with a serious interest in fishing dry flies to very picky fish should give a leader with a thin butt, long taper and long tippet ( basic idea of the Harvey leader ) a solid try, if only to make an educated decision to not use them. Historically they are what is considered best for this type of angling. My current leader choice for, say, Silver Creek .... starts as a RIO 7.5' 3X .... I mike it and cut it off about half the 3X I tie a tippet ring to the 3X and add tippet to suit the day. Anything from 3X to 6X works ok tied directly to the ring ( with appropriate fly ) ... 7X works best if you make a compound tippet 5 then 7X .... my 'average' tippet is going to run very nearly 3 feet and thus the leader is about 9 to 10.5 feet as fished ( always balance tippet to the fly being used with some test casts .... if you can't turn over the fly well when trying to, thicker or shorter, ..... if a gentle effort to pile slack straightens out anyway .. thinner or longer ) I DO use a knotted leader ( a special formula very diiferent than Harveys ) .. to use with there is high wind ( and not on my 4wt rod that I use most often ) ... and my 'nymphing only' 6wt has a knotted leader I got from a Borger book hat lobs lead and bobber well but still has a thin tippet for fast sinking On the waters I most enjoy I consider the leader and the line to be the most important tackle items ... I don't need a fancy rod, but I feel severely handicapped with a poor choice in either of those ( and almost always pattern is more important than 'presentation school' anglers are willing to believe :-) |
#5
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![]() "Larry L" wrote My current leader choice for, say, Silver Creek .... starts as a RIO 7.5' 3X .... Above for 'average' flies over normal size range If it was trico time I'd start with a RIO 9ft 7X ... cut it back to 4X, add ring, and go from there .... this gives a thinner butt and longer finished leader that works better ... for me ... when the fish are at their most hammered, and, thus, often, most picky best |
#6
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![]() "rw" wrote in message m... OK, an advantage in having a transition to a softer-grade section is at least plausible. for whatever reason, the Harvey design works, and works well. One advantage, not noted, was that one seldom needs drop below 6x, even for Tricos and the like. This leader design will present dries with a series of gentle curves in the tippet section only, and one needn't resort to 7x, 8x tippets to fool very wary trout in clear water. Tom |
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