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#1
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On a recent trip, I broke my favorite 2 piece, 9' 4wt, graphite rod. At
first, on the stream, I thought the rod had broken such that the entire butt section ferrule area was left inside the tip section ferrule area. Bummer. I switched to another rod for the remainder of the trip. At home, under closer inspection, I notice that the butt section only broke off a very small percentage of the ferrule area leaving plenty of ferrule (I think) to continue using the rod. However, as graphite usually does, the ferrule looks really nasty where it broke, i.e. the broken edge is very ragged. I think I should do something about this ratty, broken edge, lest the graphite will continue to "splinter" from this broken edge under regular use. Filing the edge might seem to be indicated, but "more harm than good" may very well ensue along that course. Perhaps applying some sort of bonding agent/sealer/goo INSIDE the ferrule would help reinforce the broken edge. Perhaps inserting some kind of "plug" in the ferrule for support (insert your favorite "insert the plug" joke here ______________________________)? Anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of breakage? Danl |
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On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:35:31 -0700, "Danl" danlfinn@*remove
this*intergate.com wrote: On a recent trip, I broke my favorite 2 piece, 9' 4wt, graphite rod. At first, on the stream, I thought the rod had broken such that the entire butt section ferrule area was left inside the tip section ferrule area. Bummer. I switched to another rod for the remainder of the trip. At home, under closer inspection, I notice that the butt section only broke off a very small percentage of the ferrule area leaving plenty of ferrule (I think) to continue using the rod. However, as graphite usually does, the ferrule looks really nasty where it broke, i.e. the broken edge is very ragged. I think I should do something about this ratty, broken edge, lest the graphite will continue to "splinter" from this broken edge under regular use. Filing the edge might seem to be indicated, but "more harm than good" may very well ensue along that course. Perhaps applying some sort of bonding agent/sealer/goo INSIDE the ferrule would help reinforce the broken edge. Perhaps inserting some kind of "plug" in the ferrule for support (insert your favorite "insert the plug" joke here ______________________________)? Anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of breakage? Danl If it has a warranty, use it, if it doesn't, see if you can pay the manufacturer to fix/replace the damaged section. If neither is an option, about the only things to do are a) take a chance with it as-is - graphite is sorta like window glass - once broken, it's all but impossible to "fix" with handtools, or, b) attempt, as a last-ditch effort, to use a high-speed cutoff wheel to trim up past any nicks, splits, or other damage of _any_ kind - use as strong a magnification as you can find, including a microscope to make sure, or, c) permanently attach the sections and live with it being much more difficult to transport. My guess is, without seeing the damage, that it won't be long until the rod blows up in your face unless you have a replacement from the manufacturer.. Damaged graphite rods don't do too well overall. Sorry and I really do hope I'm wrong, but... TC, R |
#3
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![]() wrote transport. My guess is, without seeing the damage, that it won't be long until the rod blows up in your face unless you have a replacement from the manufacturer.. Damaged graphite rods don't do too well overall. that echos my experience ... if the mfg WILL repair it at a REASONable cost, I'd have it fixed, but I have a 'favorite' rod I've paid to have fixed twice ( over nearly 30 years ) by Scott. However, next time it breaks, it's gone ... 'favorite' old rods sometimes don't stand up to a real world comparison to new ones and the repair cost is actually better applied to a new 'favorite' I'd test a few new replacements before I stretched the actual numbers involved in "reasonable cost" too far |
#4
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On Mar 24, 7:35 pm, "Danl" danlfinn@*remove this*intergate.com
wrote: Anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of breakage? Danl Usually caused by a ferrule working loose, and extremely difficult/ impossible to repair unless you are very very lucky indeed. Invariably, the only really sensible option is a new blank section. There are too many possible problems with "simple" repairs, ( if these are even possible). Also inpossible to say what might work without looking at it. A good rod builder might be able to help you, but usually itīs not worth even trying, TL MC |
#5
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Danl wrote:
On a recent trip, I broke my favorite 2 piece, 9' 4wt, graphite rod. At first, on the stream, I thought the rod had broken such that the entire butt section ferrule area was left inside the tip section ferrule area. Bummer. I switched to another rod for the remainder of the trip. At home, under closer inspection, I notice that the butt section only broke off a very small percentage of the ferrule area leaving plenty of ferrule (I think) to continue using the rod. However, as graphite usually does, the ferrule looks really nasty where it broke, i.e. the broken edge is very ragged. I think I should do something about this ratty, broken edge, lest the graphite will continue to "splinter" from this broken edge under regular use. Filing the edge might seem to be indicated, but "more harm than good" may very well ensue along that course. Perhaps applying some sort of bonding agent/sealer/goo INSIDE the ferrule would help reinforce the broken edge. Perhaps inserting some kind of "plug" in the ferrule for support (insert your favorite "insert the plug" joke here ______________________________)? Anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of breakage? Danl I had this happen and made a satisfactory repair that lasted several seasons. Like Mike said, mine broke because I hadn't seated the rod in the ferrule. It was the five weight I took to Alaska. You saw me land a number of Silvers on it after being repaired. I finally broke it (in a different place) beaching a Silver. I since got a new section. What I did was to first "clean up" the ragged break by cutting the rod just below the break with a fine exacto saw blade. Then fine sand paper the end. Next I carved out a rubber insert slightly smaller than the opening in the ferrule (I think I used an eraser but I can't remember). I then mixed up some high strength epoxy (not five minute) put some inside the rod.I then coated the rubber insert with epoxy and inserted it. Wiped off ALL the excess epoxy using a solvent and let it dry. As long as the rod is sound after cutting off the ragged end and the break was small enough that there is still enough rod to slip into the ferrule you should be fine. Willi |
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On Mar 24, 10:55 pm, Willi wrote:
I had this happen and made a satisfactory repair that lasted several seasons. Like Mike said, mine broke because I hadn't seated the rod in the ferrule. Just a couple of points there which might save somebody else the unfortunate experience. Paraffin wax, ( clear white candle wax) on the ferrules will alow them to seat better. They should be cleaned off regularly with alcohol and re-waxed. If you feel your rod "clicking", or "feeling unsual", then check your ferrules immediately, as otherwise a break is likely imminent. In a lot of cases the tip or top sections will fly off. After such an occurrence, check the ferrules carefully for any signs of ferrule splaying, and if it has any, donīt use it till it is repaired. All rods should be checked regularly in use, to make sure that the ferrules remain seated, multi piece rods even more regularly. Loose ferrules probably cause more breaks than any other cause. TL MC |
#7
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Guy wrote:
Have not used paraffin for loose fitting ferrules but do know that beeswax works well. I always carry a pinch in my vest wrapped in plastic wrap. G I take it that you're not of the "less is more" philosophy about packing a vest. :-) -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
#8
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On Mar 25, 6:59 pm, "Guy" guytee2 at comcast dot net wrote:
Have not used paraffin for loose fitting ferrules but do know that beeswax works well. I always carry a pinch in my vest wrapped in plastic wrap. G I believe pure beeswax is actually slightly better, but I have no positive quantifiable reason for thinking so, just an "impression". Seems to "stick" better, but the white candle wax works pretty well too. I donīt know anybody who has suffered such a break when using it. The ferrules are also relatively easy to separate after use if one uses wax on them. May seem contradictory, but works very well in practice. Have seen quite a few ferrule breaks though, and the damage is typical for loose ferrules. Often causes the blank to splinter, "crack", or delaminate, quite a way down the rod, which makes a "simple" repair useless. I have tried it a few times, on the strict understanding that it was at the ownerīs risk, but mostly the blank then collapses somewhere else when under stress. As soon as even a very small area of the composite is compromised, then the whole section is at risk. Even very slight practically "invisible" damage will cause blank failure under load, usually when casting. High modulus fibre blanks are at considerably greater risk than low modulus fibre blanks. In point of fact, I donīt know of any way to repair a blank that has such damage. I have tried "sleeving" a couple, but it looks awful, adds weight, can affect the action very adversely, also increasing the risk of further damage, and is unreliable at best. Modern carbon fibre rods are not easy to repair, and very often not worth the trouble anyway. |
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