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#1
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With regard to "bumping" fish, when using the "New Zealand rig", this
is a lot worse when fishing for grayling, because of the way they rise and take the fly. Indeed, I canīt remember hooking a single fish on the dry while using it. I did try it for a while, but went back to other methods after a season or so. I donīt use it for trout fishing any more either. As this sliding dry fly rig is "new", I donīt have much experience with it, ( only half a grayling season), but it looks like becoming one of my "go to" rigs for many situations. Obviously, this rig is primarily designed to allow the nymph, soft hackle, etc to fish at the right depth, but I still like to get the fish that occasionally hit the dry fly. Otherwise, I might just as well use a sliding indicator instead of a fly. TL MC |
#2
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With regard to the twist in the loop. You can twist the loop before
you thread it through the eye, or after. If you do it before, it can be difficult to pull the loop tight. It really does lock the loop better though. Once again a sketch of what I mean. This is twisted before of course. If you do it after, thread the loop first, and then twist it before threading the fly through it. http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9982/twistuu2.jpg TL MC |
#3
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One final point which may be important here. A friend I met on the
water watched me using this rig, and was very enthusiastic about it. I showed it to him,it really is very simple, takes longer to describe it, than to do it. It also only takes seconds to adjust the depth, or even to remove and re-attach the dry fly if desired, and the leader is not compromised at all. No cuts, no knots, or other messing about. Anyway, he set the rig up, and wandered off to another run. I met him again later in the afternoon, and he told me that he had been broken a couple of times at the loop on the eye of the dry fly, ( he had no leader rings, and I had none with me), which surprised me a lot, as I have never been broken like this. It turned out he was using fluorocarbon tippet, and it seems this stuff does not like being kinked sharply! Maybe he had poor stuff, or something, or there were other reasons for this. I really donīt know. I donīt use fluorocarbon, I only use nylon. If you want to use fluorocarbon line, this may be an issue for you. But I donīt know, as I have hardly any experience with it. I only tried it for a while, and then went back to using nylon. TL MC |
#4
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If you want to lock the loop in position more firmly, then take one
side of the loop once or twice around the hook shank, before feeding the loop over it. If you get a big fish on the dry, this will kink your line more as it slides down the leader, but this did not cause me any particular problems. The biggest problem I had was actually getting the loop through the eye of some smaller dry flies, which is why I prefer the leader ring setup as well. You can also lock the leader ring more firmly using a similar technique, just thread the loop twice through the ring, before threading your fly and dropper through the loop. This will still slide easily if you loosen the loop, but will take a lot more force to slide it if the loop is tight. Indeed, if you feed it through three times for instance, it probably wont slide at all unless you loosen the loop. I broke wet 6 lb mono trying variations of this, without the ring sliding at all of course. However, if I was getting a lot of fish on the dry fly, I would take the nymph off, and fish a pure dry fly set up anyway. TL MC |
#5
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On Fri, 2 May 2008 09:12:29 -0700 (PDT), Mike
wrote: If you want to lock the loop in position more firmly, then take one side of the loop once or twice around the hook shank, before feeding the loop over it. If you get a big fish on the dry, this will kink your line more as it slides down the leader, but this did not cause me any particular problems. The biggest problem I had was actually getting the loop through the eye of some smaller dry flies, which is why I prefer the leader ring setup as well. You can also lock the leader ring more firmly using a similar technique, just thread the loop twice through the ring, before threading your fly and dropper through the loop. This will still slide easily if you loosen the loop, but will take a lot more force to slide it if the loop is tight. Indeed, if you feed it through three times for instance, it probably wont slide at all unless you loosen the loop. I broke wet 6 lb mono trying variations of this, without the ring sliding at all of course. However, if I was getting a lot of fish on the dry fly, I would take the nymph off, and fish a pure dry fly set up anyway. Um, so let's recap, shall we...this FAB-U-LOUS NEW!!! idea of yours is perfect, except for those fishing for, well, anything and using, well, anything, while doing, well, anything, under, well, any conditions...but you've had, well, not really much success with it...yeah, boy, sounds like a real winner you got there... Sheesh, Dickie TL MC |
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