Tips for getting a long cast?

Hi folks,
Generally speaking, what is recommended to obtain the farthest possible cast
from a spinning rod and reel? I've read in one magazine that the lighter
line you use, the less resistance you get and therefore the farther the
cast. But my dad always said that with a heavier line, you can use heavier
sinkers to get it out further. I've also read conflicting views on setting
up the reel spool and what size reel to use. I read in one fishing magazine
that keeping the spool as full of line as possible reduces the friction the
spool places on the line as it unravels during the cast (and when using my
hand to pull line off of a spool that's only filled halfway or less, this
does seem to be true). But I've seen other fisherman claim on the 'net that
the trick to a longer cast is to keep *only* as much line on the spool as
you need to make the cast and to allow sufficient line to play a fish,
because with a full spool the line will whip around in a wider circumference
and thus cause more friction against the rod guides during a cast. I've also
read that a small spool feeds out the line in a smaller circumference (and
thus places less friction against the rod guides), but one would think that
a smaller spool also causes the line to form tighter and more numerous loops
and have more "memory" which would cause more friction against the rod
guides as it's played out.
Any thoughts?

- Logic316


"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your reserve is also
fouled, you have the rest of your life to get it straightened out."

On Tue, 1 Jul 2008 17:50:49 -0400, Logic316 wrote:

Hi folks,
Generally speaking, what is recommended to obtain the farthest possible cast
from a spinning rod and reel? I've read in one magazine that the lighter
line you use, the less resistance you get and therefore the farther the
cast. But my dad always said that with a heavier line, you can use heavier
sinkers to get it out further.

The problem here is that you need to match the line to the intended fish,
not the weight of the sinker. If you need light action for say crappie or
blue gill, especially for light nibbles, you don't want 14 lb test just to
get a heavier sinker to cast farther. Match the line and sinker to the
fish and the sensitivity needed. IMHO, if you need to get farther, get a
boat or get closer. I can get some pretty good casts off an ice jig,
splitshot, and slip bobber with a 6 1/2 foot rod and old, large
Garcia/Mitchell 300.

Can't comment on the rest.

I've also read conflicting views on setting
up the reel spool and what size reel to use. I read in one fishing magazine
that keeping the spool as full of line as possible reduces the friction the
spool places on the line as it unravels during the cast (and when using my
hand to pull line off of a spool that's only filled halfway or less, this
does seem to be true). But I've seen other fisherman claim on the 'net that
the trick to a longer cast is to keep *only* as much line on the spool as
you need to make the cast and to allow sufficient line to play a fish,
because with a full spool the line will whip around in a wider circumference
and thus cause more friction against the rod guides during a cast. I've also
read that a small spool feeds out the line in a smaller circumference (and
thus places less friction against the rod guides), but one would think that
a smaller spool also causes the line to form tighter and more numerous loops
and have more "memory" which would cause more friction against the rod
guides as it's played out.
Any thoughts?

- Logic316


Longer rod? Switch to fly fishing?


"If your main parachute fouls, deploy your reserve. If your reserve is also
fouled, you have the rest of your life to get it straightened out."

Fresh line and a full spool is the trick. No doubt in my mind. Anybody who says casting with a half empty spool ain't done much fishing I'll tell you that.

Mono line gets wavy after it sets on a spool. The closer it gets to the end the tighter the wave is. This makes your line come out in worse spirals creating way more friction.

Braided line helps big time. It doesn't get all wavy like mono line does. It's smaller so it weighs less.

Remember if you use braided line to get a pole and reel designed to handle braided line. Braided line will tear up your eyelets and reel if it's not set up for it.

A longer pole also helps get more distance on your cast.

good luck

"Waders65" wrote in message
...

Fresh line and a full spool is the trick. No doubt in my mind. Anybody
who says casting with a half empty spool ain't done much fishing I'll
tell you that.

Mono line gets wavy after it sets on a spool. The closer it gets to the
end the tighter the wave is. This makes your line come out in worse
spirals creating way more friction.

I invest in good swivels. Does really well.

Braided line helps big time. It doesn't get all wavy like mono line
does. It's smaller so it weighs less.

I have tried braded line. What a PITA. I now only use mono for spin
casting, but occassional use braded for still fishing.

Remember if you use braided line to get a pole and reel designed to
handle braided line. Braided line will tear up your eyelets and reel if
it's not set up for it.

The pitch.

A longer pole also helps get more distance on your cast.

It does help to a point, but with skill it makes much more diffence.

Along with what wader and Cannuck have said, the motion of the cast has
something to contribute as well.
If you're using a heavy lure (pickerel rig with weights for example) you
have no choice but to go with a smooth over the shoulder motion. However, if
you are using a lightweight lure such as a jig, spinner or such where the
weight is moderate to light and all of the weight is in one spot (jig head
versus lindy rig), then I have found that a very short arm motion with the
bulk of the rod motion coming from a snap motion of the wrist will give you
more distance and allow better control of where you place the lure as well.

I am not a fan of the braided lines, but I do not use mono either. Braided
lines tend to fray a lot in rough bottoms (logs, rocks) and mono is just too
fragile when you're after toothy critters. I use a superline like spiderwire
or gorilla line but never a braid. It's smaller diameter (4lb diameter for
12lb test as an example) does indeed give you better flex in the line for a
longer cast. And to avoid the twist that Wader refers to, use a swivel as
Canuck suggests. If it still develops, put a spinner or spoon on and cast
into river current. Let a lot of line out. If you're in a boat, you can just
use the swivel with no hook and let it out while the boat's moving. Let out
as much line as you can and simply retrieve it. the swivel allows the line
to straighten out again and remove the twist.

I've never fished with more than a 6.5 foot rod and am able to cast almost
as far as my friends with a ten foot noodle rod. It's all in the line
selection and the wrist motion.

Good luck!