Matching reel and line/rod weights. What can one get away with?

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:43:36 -0800, "Dan" lose
wrote:

RW,

Since my total gear at this point is one (30 year old and paid for IIRC, my
mother) $25 rod and one (not here yet and cost well under $100) Hardy reel,
I think I have the urge to just accumulate gear reasonably under control. My
initial post in fact, at least on this subject, was in the hopes of being
able to use one reel on two rods.

However, I do take your point, which is, if I have understood you correctly,
that the key point is to get out and fish. I am working on that part of the
plan right now.

Cheers - Dan

Simple answer to a simple question -- it'll be suitable for a 9' - 6
wt. no problem.. Most Hardy reels tend to be a bit optimistic on
their line rating so using a #7 on a six weight would be quite
typical.

Peter

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Dan wrote:

However, I do take your point, which is, if I have understood you correctly,
that the key point is to get out and fish. I am working on that part of the
plan right now.

That's very close to my point, and I commend you on your purpose of mind.

More to the point I was trying to make is that flyfishermen, and
especially newbie flyfishermen, should avoid obsessing about gear,
unless, of course, their true avocation is to become gear whores.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Thanks, Peter. And if it is not trespassing on your patience, perhaps you
could answer another. If a manufacturer says a rod is a 5/6 weight, does
that mean it lies between the two weights or does it refer to a various
kinds of lines?

Dan

"Peter Charles" wrote

Simple answer to a simple question -- it'll be suitable for a 9' - 6
wt. no problem.. Most Hardy reels tend to be a bit optimistic on
their line rating so using a #7 on a six weight would be quite
typical.

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 17:55:27 -0800, "Dan" lose
wrote:

Thanks, Peter. And if it is not trespassing on your patience, perhaps you
could answer another. If a manufacturer says a rod is a 5/6 weight, does
that mean it lies between the two weights or does it refer to a various
kinds of lines?


The conventional answer is that the rod takes either a DT-5 or a WF-6
but that sometimes proves not to be true in practice. Preference also
plays a part as one might like a rod with a six while another prefers
it with a five. I've also cast multi-rated rods where they weren't
even close on one end of the range. The best that can be said with
certainty about these rods -- they aren't too fussy about what you put
on them. Novice casters should line it with the higher weight as it
will probably make it more forgiving to cast. With the higher weight
line, they will also more easily feel the rod load. If you're
planning on buying a 5/6, go with the WF-6.

Peter

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"Greg Pavlov" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 22:33:51 GMT, "Wayne"
wrote:

You can go up or down one fairly easily with a change of spools (line
should
match rod). However, balancing the reel size and weight to the rod is
much
more desirable and contributes extensively to proper gearwhoring.
--

I can see a bit of logic to the weight issue, tho given 3 - 4 oz
rods and sub-pound reels I think that it's overstated, but I
don't understand the bit about reel size, as long as it holds
the line & backing I (think I) need.

Note the crucial phrase "contributes extensively to proper gearwhoring".
Your mistake, I think, is in believing this has something to do with fly
fishing.

Wolfgang

Hi Dan,

If you buy a 9' #5 line 4 piece fly rod it will be OK with your reel. The
JLH is a very light series.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"Dan" lose wrote in message
...

I am still baffled by the whole line/rod/reel weight thing. I have a 7
weight Hardy JLH Golden reel winging its way towards me from England to
use
on my old Fenwick 7 weight glass fibre rod. I have also decided to look
for
a cheap multi-piece travel rod to allow me to fish when hiking, and it
would
be nice if I could use the same reel. So, what is the lightest rod I could
get away with using the Hardy reel on? I know one has to match line weight
and rod weight, but does one absolutely have to match the reel to the rod
and line? Since everyone seems to say that 4, 5 and 6 weight rods are
right
for trout, I was thinking that maybe I could get a 5 weight rod but only
if
I can use the 7 weight reel on it.

Dan (who is beginning to think about making a trip to Sacramento just to
talk to Bill Kiene in person.)

Hi Steve,

I am about half crazy with this cold and sinus crap. I have been off for
almost a week and I think I am headed to the doctor for some drugs.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"rw" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Dan wrote:
I am still baffled by the whole line/rod/reel weight thing.

Just take a deep breath, relax, and go fishing with whatever gear you
have available. The very best advice you've gotten, that I've noticed,
came from Jeff Miller.

Dan (who is beginning to think about making a trip to Sacramento just to
talk to Bill Kiene in person.)

It wouldn't hurt.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Peter,

Help me out here before everyone jumps on me. What I am actually trying to
ascertain is this: what is the lowest weight of (travel) rod I can buy that
will allow me to use the 7 weight reel I have (which I bought to match my
old fiberglass rod). I would like to buy a 5 weight travel rod (since I have
been given to understand that is a the best "all-round" weight for trout),
but if that will require me to buy a new reel, I will get a 6 weight travel
rod instead.

If reels dont actually need to match rod weight at all, why do they oput
numbers on them?

Dan

"Peter Charles" wrote in message
...
The conventional answer is that the rod takes either a DT-5 or a WF-6
but that sometimes proves not to be true in practice. Preference also
plays a part as one might like a rod with a six while another prefers
it with a five. I've also cast multi-rated rods where they weren't
even close on one end of the range. The best that can be said with
certainty about these rods -- they aren't too fussy about what you put
on them. Novice casters should line it with the higher weight as it
will probably make it more forgiving to cast. With the higher weight
line, they will also more easily feel the rod load. If you're
planning on buying a 5/6, go with the WF-6.

Dan wrote:

Peter,

Help me out here before everyone jumps on me. What I am actually trying to
ascertain is this: what is the lowest weight of (travel) rod I can buy that
will allow me to use the 7 weight reel I have (which I bought to match my
old fiberglass rod). I would like to buy a 5 weight travel rod (since I have
been given to understand that is a the best "all-round" weight for trout),
but if that will require me to buy a new reel, I will get a 6 weight travel
rod instead.

If reels dont actually need to match rod weight at all, why do they oput
numbers on them?

Reels in most trout fishing situation basically are just holds of line.
In almost every trout fishing situation, a cheap 20 reel is going to be
just as good as a $500 reel. It won't look as good and it won't last as
long. Since the reel isn't part of the cast like it is in spin or bait
casting, it basically just holds line. You don't need a high priced
drag, a click and pawl reel will be just fine.

The weight of the reel does play a small part in casting but isn't
really very important. Personally, I like a reel that is as light as
possible.Your seven weight reel will work fine on a five weight, but
will be a little heavy.

However, since you will be using a lighter line on it with the five
weight rod, you'll need another spool. It might be cheaper and better
for you at this point to buy an inexpensive reel to fit your five
weight. I fished for years with a cheap $20 reel until the gears finally
wore out. Never felt my fishing was handicapped by it.

Willi

"Dan" lose wrote in message
...
Peter,

Help me out here before everyone jumps on me. What I am actually trying to
ascertain is this: what is the lowest weight of (travel) rod I can buy
that
will allow me to use the 7 weight reel I have (which I bought to match my
old fiberglass rod). I would like to buy a 5 weight travel rod (since I
have
been given to understand that is a the best "all-round" weight for trout),
but if that will require me to buy a new reel, I will get a 6 weight
travel
rod instead.

If reels dont actually need to match rod weight at all, why do they oput
numbers on them?

Beyond providing a rough, and relative, guide to line holding capacity
(bigger numbers mean larger size), the weight designations on reels mean
absolutely nothing. A lot of people will prate about balancing a reel and
rod, but this too is nonsense. This is easy to demonstrate. Choose any
rod, reel, and line combination. Practice casting for a few minutes with
say, ten feet of line out, paying close attention to how it feels. Then, do
the same with thirty feet of line out. If the idiocy of notions about
balance is not apparent at the end of half an hour, take up oil
painting......it is much more amenable sagacious pronouncements based on
specious "reasoning".

A common sense approach is your best bet. A six foot 2 weight rod doesn't
require a reel capable of holding a 12 weight line and 200 yards of backing.
Conversely, a 12 weight rod used in pursuit of tarpon is pretty much useless
when paired with a reel that will barely hold a 2 weight WF line sans
backing.

Wolfgang