TR- Bass Bugs

On Aug 11, 6:58*am, George Cleveland
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:46:35 -0700 (PDT), Mike

wrote:
great pics great report as usual George........what size leader and
tippet were you using.........

With deerhair divers and bugs I use a factory 7 1/2' 0X or 1X *leader
with 6# Maxima for tippet. *I think the stiffness helps turn the bugs
over. When I go to streamers and *buggers I tie on a Orvis Super
Strong 3X tippet, about 2' long. It actually tests stronger than the
Maxima but is a smaller diameter. I have flourocarbon but I don't use
it very often... more laziness in having to tie a triple surgeons knot
than anything else... even though it would probably be better on the
sunken flies.

I have knottable steel tippet but I'm absolutely convinced it reduces
both bass and walleye strikes. And so I only tie it on if I'm getting
a lot of bite offs.

George C.

Do you have a ref. for knottable steel tippets? I have had to use
custom stainless twisted leaders, tied on BEFORE tying the fly, when
casting to 'cudas.

cheers

oz

On Tue, 11 Aug 2009 21:00:01 -0700 (PDT), MajorOz
wrote:

On Aug 11, 6:58*am, George Cleveland
wrote:
On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:46:35 -0700 (PDT), Mike

wrote:
great pics great report as usual George........what size leader and
tippet were you using.........

With deerhair divers and bugs I use a factory 7 1/2' 0X or 1X *leader
with 6# Maxima for tippet. *I think the stiffness helps turn the bugs
over. When I go to streamers and *buggers I tie on a Orvis Super
Strong 3X tippet, about 2' long. It actually tests stronger than the
Maxima but is a smaller diameter. I have flourocarbon but I don't use
it very often... more laziness in having to tie a triple surgeons knot
than anything else... even though it would probably be better on the
sunken flies.

I have knottable steel tippet but I'm absolutely convinced it reduces
both bass and walleye strikes. And so I only tie it on if I'm getting
a lot of bite offs.

George C.

Do you have a ref. for knottable steel tippets? I have had to use
custom stainless twisted leaders, tied on BEFORE tying the fly, when
casting to 'cudas.

cheers

oz


Sure. There are a few out there.

http://www.tygerleader.com/

http://www.ezflyfish.com/cltocrwi.html

http://www.americanfishingwire.com/smsupreme.asp

I've used all three and I like the Climax/Cortland Toothy Critter the
best (seems to kink less) but they all work.


Geo.

George Cleveland wrote:
MajorOz wrote:
George Cleveland wrote:
I have knottable steel tippet but I'm absolutely convinced it reduces
both bass and walleye strikes. And so I only tie it on if I'm getting
a lot of bite offs.

Do you have a ref. for knottable steel tippets? I have had to use
custom stainless twisted leaders, tied on BEFORE tying the fly, when
casting to 'cudas.

Sure. There are a few out there.

http://www.tygerleader.com/

http://www.ezflyfish.com/cltocrwi.html

http://www.americanfishingwire.com/smsupreme.asp

I've used all three and I like the Climax/Cortland Toothy Critter the
best (seems to kink less) but they all work.

The best wire leader I've found is Boa No-Kink.

http://www.malinco.com/fishing/boa.html

It's titanium and more expensive than steel but it's way
better than steel in terms of kinking and visibility in
the water. I use the 30 lb. on all my muskie leaders.

--
Ken Fortenberry

On Wed, 12 Aug 2009 09:21:08 -0500, Ken Fortenberry
wrote:

George Cleveland wrote:
MajorOz wrote:
George Cleveland wrote:
I have knottable steel tippet but I'm absolutely convinced it reduces
both bass and walleye strikes. And so I only tie it on if I'm getting
a lot of bite offs.

Do you have a ref. for knottable steel tippets? I have had to use
custom stainless twisted leaders, tied on BEFORE tying the fly, when
casting to 'cudas.

Sure. There are a few out there.

http://www.tygerleader.com/

http://www.ezflyfish.com/cltocrwi.html

http://www.americanfishingwire.com/smsupreme.asp

I've used all three and I like the Climax/Cortland Toothy Critter the
best (seems to kink less) but they all work.

The best wire leader I've found is Boa No-Kink.

http://www.malinco.com/fishing/boa.html

It's titanium and more expensive than steel but it's way
better than steel in terms of kinking and visibility in
the water. I use the 30 lb. on all my muskie leaders.

Actually thats cheaper than Tyger wire, which goes for close to
$10/10'. I'll give it a try.

Thanks!

Geo.

"Ken Fortenberry" wrote in message
...

The best wire leader I've found is Boa No-Kink.

http://www.malinco.com/fishing/boa.html

It's titanium and more expensive than steel but it's way
better than steel in terms of kinking and visibility in
the water. I use the 30 lb. on all my muskie leaders.

--
Ken Fortenberry

What knot(s) have you found to be the most effective with this product?

TIA,
JT

JT wrote:
"Ken Fortenberry" wrote:
The best wire leader I've found is Boa No-Kink.

http://www.malinco.com/fishing/boa.html

It's titanium and more expensive than steel but it's way
better than steel in terms of kinking and visibility in
the water. I use the 30 lb. on all my muskie leaders.

What knot(s) have you found to be the most effective with this product?

I'm from the Wayno School of Knots with titanium wire, that
is to say, nothin' but clinch knots. I used to use an Albright
for the hard mono to wire connection but I've started building
my muskie leaders using a leader ring between the hard mono
and the wire so I just use a standard clinch on both ends.

--
Ken Fortenberry