Backing advice

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:53:42 -0600, "Aaron Hammer" wrote:

Ever tried the sal****er Micron?

~Hammer

Not that I'm aware of - I don't think Cortland was selling teflon-coated
backings the last time I loaded a reel. otoh, I'm almost certain all of the
Micron I've used was sold as being ok for salt water use, that it wouldn't rot
if treated reasonably well.

I've always used the regular Micron (never the Micronite gelspun stuff) mostly
because its wicked easy to blind splice different colors. And so far, at
least, I've never had backing rot or mildew. A good warm water soak, flush and
air-dry after a salty trip seems to work well enough.

The only problem I've ever had with Micron was trying to find the 30# Red
stuff without resorting to mail order...

/daytripper

Another question.

What is blind splicing? Know a good reference to learn it?

Thanks.

~Hammer

"daytripper" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:53:42 -0600, "Aaron Hammer"
wrote:

Ever tried the sal****er Micron?

~Hammer

Not that I'm aware of - I don't think Cortland was selling teflon-coated
backings the last time I loaded a reel. otoh, I'm almost certain all of
the
Micron I've used was sold as being ok for salt water use, that it wouldn't
rot
if treated reasonably well.

I've always used the regular Micron (never the Micronite gelspun stuff)
mostly
because its wicked easy to blind splice different colors. And so far, at
least, I've never had backing rot or mildew. A good warm water soak, flush
and
air-dry after a salty trip seems to work well enough.

The only problem I've ever had with Micron was trying to find the 30# Red
stuff without resorting to mail order...

/daytripper

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004, Aaron Hammer wrote:

What is blind splicing? Know a good reference to learn it?

If you buy any Rio fly line it will show you a little description.
Otherwise you should purchase the Cortland splicing tool, it's only $2.

Mu

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:13:39 -0600, "Aaron Hammer" wrote:

Another question.

What is blind splicing? Know a good reference to learn it?

Not much luck Googling up a description, so I'll give it a try.

Let's assume you're splicing a red section to a white section.
Lay the ends of the two lines side-by-side, with about 12" of overlap.
Make a small mark on each line in the dead center of the overlap with a felt
tipped pen. Call this the 6" mark.

Then put a mark on each line where the tip of the other line ends (ie: this
mark would be 12" from the end of each line). We'll call this the 12" mark.

From here you can use Cortland's tool, or you can make your own by cutting a
two foot piece from a High E guitar string, heat up a spot in the middle, and
fold the line flat in half using a pair of pliers. Key here is to make a very
tight bend, but to do that without breaking the string (unless you're plain
lucky) takes a little strategically placed heat.

Take the red line in hand. Stick the tip of the tool (or the folded end of the
wire) into the red line at the 12" mark, pointing toward the 6" mark. Staying
within the hollow core, thread the tool into the line, emerging at the 6"
mark, leaving a couple of inches of the tip of the tool exposed.

Now take the tip of the white line and insert it into the tip of the tool (or
within the tight bend of the wire). Make sure it's tightly lodged, then gently
back the tool out of the red line, dragging the white line within. Remove the
tool from the red line (at its 12" mark) and unhook the tip of the white line.
The 6" mark on the white line should be exactly aligned to the 6" mark on the
red line at this point.

You're half way done!

Now take the white line in hand. Poke the tool into the white line at its 12"
mark, pointing towards the 6" mark. Push the tool to the 6" mark, pop the tip
out, hook the end of the red line to the tool, pull the tool back out,
dragging the red tip with it.

Don't snug the line tight yet!

You want to end up with the tips of the two lines buried inside the cores.
Trim the two tag ends so they are barely sticking out, then draw the line
smoothly from the center of the splice outwards. Keep massaging the splice
until the ends are hidden, then repeat with increasing tension, until you've
drawn the slice taught.

Et voila!

If you're the paranoid type you can suspend the splice a couple of feet from
the ends and put one drop of super glue directly at the ends (the 12" marks).
I've never done that, yet I've never had a splice let go.

Cheers

/daytripper
(waiting for a DRC job to finish...this late night work is getting old...)

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 06:13:56 GMT, daytripper
wrote:

[snip instructions]
Et voila!

Good description of the technique, DT. I use the same method to put a
loop in my backing for a loop to loop connection with my fly line.
--
Charlie...

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 05:28:53 -0500, Charlie Choc
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 06:13:56 GMT, daytripper
wrote:

[snip instructions]
Et voila!

Good description of the technique, DT. I use the same method to put a
loop in my backing for a loop to loop connection with my fly line.

Thanks, CC. Now I can point to Google the next time someone asks ;-)

I have done the really big backing loop thing to my larger reels, especially
my wide arbor 11-12 - as it makes changing lines a relative snap, so I don't
have to carry an extra weighty spool on the flats...

cheers

/daytripper