Attaching crankbaits

go-bassn wrote:
Shred, just how long does it take you to change a bait?

I can do it in 10 seconds.

As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can detract from a
crankbait's intended action.

Warren

Do you remove the split ring(if it has one) and tie a "Rapala" type knot to
allow movement of the bait or do you tie it tight?

I thought that removing the ring and tying directly, with a standard knot,
would inhibit the side to side movement.

FYI: I have removed the split rings and use a Duo-Lock. I was just looking
for a better snap because I use the small Duo-Lock snaps and they seem to
get out of shape and affect the lure's tracking.





"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:_gpHb.31549$gN.8931@fed1read05...
Thanks for the help and pic Andrew!



Andrew Kidd wrote:
"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits
quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make
the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a
spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my
spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing.

I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so
slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the
manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The
area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be
more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the
snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta
angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you
can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where
the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop.
This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile.
The picture might help a little...

When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little.
This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it
more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring
open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve
(where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close
with your pliers.

Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of
the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much
less likely to be opened.

Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap.
They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I
use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters...

I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips.
I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+.

They work great.

Carlos

On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:20:47 GMT, "Carlos"
wrote:

I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips.
I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+.

They work great.

Carlos


I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check
their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them. I
replace mine every few trips, especially when I am cranking a lot.
Richard g
www.bassstalkers.com

I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check
their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them

AMEN!

I have sent a few baits sailing into the far yonder because the speed clip
opened at some time and I did not notice.

Brad

"Richard g" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:20:47 GMT, "Carlos"
wrote:

I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed
clips.
I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+.

They work great.

Carlos


I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check
their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them. I
replace mine every few trips, especially when I am cranking a lot.
Richard g
www.bassstalkers.com


I disagree about removing the split ring, personally. A two link chain has
more freedom of movement then one, and should actually act more like a
rapala knot. With the split ring removed, the clip then is moving through
the water with more resistance when if it is left to cut through the water
with its profile. I like having the opening on that clip facing directly
away from the direction the bait is traveling. I almost never have one pop
open.

my 2 cents...
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:41:05 GMT, "Andrew Kidd"
wrote:

I disagree about removing the split ring, personally. A two link chain has
more freedom of movement then one, and should actually act more like a
rapala knot. With the split ring removed, the clip then is moving through
the water with more resistance when if it is left to cut through the water
with its profile. I like having the opening on that clip facing directly
away from the direction the bait is traveling. I almost never have one pop
open.

my 2 cents...

Interesting, I was thinking the speed clip was replacing the split
ring. That was my reason for removing the stock ring. I have used it
with a spit ring on the Thundershad cranks. Only because I liked the
oval split ring that comes on the TS.
I noticed that if I get hung with a crank and pull real hard trying
to free it the Bill Norman clip can get bent. I replace them right
away after getting hung.
Richard g
www.bassstalkers.com

I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first

I am surprised at that. I have never had a split ring fail, but have had clips
fail. But I retie enough that I would retie every time I switch baits anyway.
I will use a clip on some cranks when fishing them on light line, but never use
clips with line over 10 pound test and hardly every on lighter line.
Ronnie

http://fishing.about.com