Please help with my dock.

I was asked to build a dock on lake front property. Does the dock have
to float or can I build it like I would a deck? Please help. The dock
would run 20 out into the water and would be about 2 feet deep at it's
deepest point.

--
Chris F
Long Island, USA.
Fisherman by nature, goofball by society.

Chris wrote: "I was asked to build a dock on lake front property. Does the
dock have to float or can I build it like I would a deck? Please help. The
dock would run 20 out into the water and would be about 2 feet deep at it's
deepest point."

Look around the lake and see what kind of docks are there now. I would also
check with local governing authorities to see if there are any regulations
on building the dock on the lake. I personally would prefer a dock that is
pilings. However there are certain things you need to consider before
building this dock. What is the highest level the water will rise during
the year. A floating dock would ride and fall with the water level, where
as a dock built on pilings may go under water if not built high enough.

You may want to look into the materials you make the dock out of. Some of
the the new treateed lumber on the market is not suitable for use around
water due to chemicals leaching into the water. The old lumber was treated
with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) which contained arsenic. The new
treated lumber is treated with copper quat (ACQ), copper azole, and borate
oxide (borates). None of these contain arsenic.
Borate Oxide (SBX) - A class of wood preservatives that contain boron as the
active ingredient. Borate compounds include sodium octaborate, sodium
tetraborate, sodium pentaborate, and boric acid. Borate oxide preservatives
are water soluble and do leach. Therefore, they are not recommended for wood
in soil or constant water contact. Brand name products containing borate
compounds include AdvanceGuard lumber by Osmose and SmartGuard products from
Louisiana Pacific Corporation.


See the section below copied from
http://www.thewarrengroup.com/wp/mbd...6200400009.asp

I would consider buying a modular dock and install it. The cost may be
close to the price of the materials to build one.
http://www.frigodesign.com/price
http://www.mercomarine.com/steel-dock.htmschedule.html




Q: Is lumber treated with the replacements for CCA more corrosive to
fasteners and connectors than lumber treated with CCA?

A: Yes. However, only lumber treated with the non-borate preservatives such
as ACQ and copper azole products is more corrosive. Lumber treated with
borate preservatives is actually considered to be less corrosive than CCA
treated lumber.

Q: Because lumber treated with non-borate preservatives is more corrosive to
fasteners and connectors, are there any recommendations that lumber so
treated shouldn't be used?

A: No. There are no recommendations that lumber treated with non-borate
preservatives shouldn't be used. However, it is imperative that builders and
consumers ensure the fasteners and connectors they are using are recommended
and certified for use with the specific type of treated lumber they are
installing.

The treated wood industry recommends that only stainless steel or
thick-coated hot-dipped galvanized fasteners and connectors be used on
lumber treated with non-borate preservatives. Use of fasteners and
connectors not specifically recommended and certified for use with treated
lumber could result in accelerated corrosion and premature failure.

Builders and consumers should always consult with their lumber dealers and
retailers and follow all recommendations by the manufacturers of the treated
lumber, fasteners and connectors they will be using.

Q: Specifically, what types of hot-dipped galvanized fasteners are being
recommended?

A: Galvanized fasteners and connectors are produced with different coating
thicknesses in accordance with the American Society of Testing and Materials
(ASTM) standards depending on the intended end use. Hot-dipped galvanized
fasteners and connectors used on lumber treated with non-borate
preservatives should have a minimum galvanic coating thickness of grade G185
and meet ASTM standards A365 for lighter gauge fasteners and connectors,
A153 for larger gauge fasteners, and A123 for larger gauge connectors.

These certifications should be noted on the product or packaging. Any
product that cannot be verified as meeting the appropriate ASTM standard or
equivalency should not be used.

Q: Are stainless steel fasteners and connectors more corrosion resistant
than galvanized products?

A: Yes. Stainless steel provides the highest level of corrosion resistance.
However, appropriate galvanized products are suitable for many applications.

The treated wood industry recommends using stainless steel fasteners and
connectors of grade Type 304 and 316 whenever practical, especially for
outdoor conditions where constant or frequent exposure to water and moisture
can be expected. Stainless steel fasteners and connectors are actually
required for certain construction purposes such as for permanent wood
foundations. For applications where stainless steel is not required,
builders and consumers should give careful thought to the conditions the
fasteners and connectors will be exposed to and follow all recommendations
by the manufacturers of the treated lumber, fasteners and connectors they
will be using.

Q: Are stainless steel fasteners and connectors a better choice than
galvanized products?

A: In some cases, yes, but that doesn't mean galvanized products shouldn't
be used, just not for all applications. It's really dependent upon how and
where the fasteners and connectors are to be used. While stainless steel
provides the greatest resistance to corrosion and is actually required for
certain applications like the construction of permanent wood foundations,
appropriate galvanized products provide adequate corrosion resistance for
most uses of treated lumber and are much more economical.

Builders and consumers should always consult with their lumber dealers and
retailers and follow all recommendations by the manufacturers of the treated
lumber, fasteners and connectors they will be using.

Chris wrote: "I was asked to build a dock on lake front property. Does the
dock have to float or can I build it like I would a deck? Please help. The
dock would run 20 out into the water and would be about 2 feet deep at it's
deepest point."

Look around the lake and see what kind of docks are there now. I would also
check with local governing authorities to see if there are any regulations
on building the dock on the lake. I personally would prefer a dock that is
pilings. However there are certain things you need to consider before
building this dock. What is the highest level the water will rise during
the year. A floating dock would ride and fall with the water level, where
as a dock built on pilings may go under water if not built high enough.

You may want to look into the materials you make the dock out of. Some of
the the new treateed lumber on the market is not suitable for use around
water due to chemicals leaching into the water. The old lumber was treated
with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) which contained arsenic. The new
treated lumber is treated with copper quat (ACQ), copper azole, and borate
oxide (borates). None of these contain arsenic.
Borate Oxide (SBX) - A class of wood preservatives that contain boron as the
active ingredient. Borate compounds include sodium octaborate, sodium
tetraborate, sodium pentaborate, and boric acid. Borate oxide preservatives
are water soluble and do leach. Therefore, they are not recommended for wood
in soil or constant water contact. Brand name products containing borate
compounds include AdvanceGuard lumber by Osmose and SmartGuard products from
Louisiana Pacific Corporation.


See the section below copied from
http://www.thewarrengroup.com/wp/mbd...6200400009.asp

I would consider buying a modular dock and install it. The cost may be
close to the price of the materials to build one.
http://www.frigodesign.com/price
http://www.mercomarine.com/steel-dock.htmschedule.html




Q: Is lumber treated with the replacements for CCA more corrosive to
fasteners and connectors than lumber treated with CCA?

A: Yes. However, only lumber treated with the non-borate preservatives such
as ACQ and copper azole products is more corrosive. Lumber treated with
borate preservatives is actually considered to be less corrosive than CCA
treated lumber.

Q: Because lumber treated with non-borate preservatives is more corrosive to
fasteners and connectors, are there any recommendations that lumber so
treated shouldn't be used?

A: No. There are no recommendations that lumber treated with non-borate
preservatives shouldn't be used. However, it is imperative that builders and
consumers ensure the fasteners and connectors they are using are recommended
and certified for use with the specific type of treated lumber they are
installing.

The treated wood industry recommends that only stainless steel or
thick-coated hot-dipped galvanized fasteners and connectors be used on
lumber treated with non-borate preservatives. Use of fasteners and
connectors not specifically recommended and certified for use with treated
lumber could result in accelerated corrosion and premature failure.

Builders and consumers should always consult with their lumber dealers and
retailers and follow all recommendations by the manufacturers of the treated
lumber, fasteners and connectors they will be using.

Q: Specifically, what types of hot-dipped galvanized fasteners are being
recommended?

A: Galvanized fasteners and connectors are produced with different coating
thicknesses in accordance with the American Society of Testing and Materials
(ASTM) standards depending on the intended end use. Hot-dipped galvanized
fasteners and connectors used on lumber treated with non-borate
preservatives should have a minimum galvanic coating thickness of grade G185
and meet ASTM standards A365 for lighter gauge fasteners and connectors,
A153 for larger gauge fasteners, and A123 for larger gauge connectors.

These certifications should be noted on the product or packaging. Any
product that cannot be verified as meeting the appropriate ASTM standard or
equivalency should not be used.

Q: Are stainless steel fasteners and connectors more corrosion resistant
than galvanized products?

A: Yes. Stainless steel provides the highest level of corrosion resistance.
However, appropriate galvanized products are suitable for many applications.

The treated wood industry recommends using stainless steel fasteners and
connectors of grade Type 304 and 316 whenever practical, especially for
outdoor conditions where constant or frequent exposure to water and moisture
can be expected. Stainless steel fasteners and connectors are actually
required for certain construction purposes such as for permanent wood
foundations. For applications where stainless steel is not required,
builders and consumers should give careful thought to the conditions the
fasteners and connectors will be exposed to and follow all recommendations
by the manufacturers of the treated lumber, fasteners and connectors they
will be using.

Q: Are stainless steel fasteners and connectors a better choice than
galvanized products?

A: In some cases, yes, but that doesn't mean galvanized products shouldn't
be used, just not for all applications. It's really dependent upon how and
where the fasteners and connectors are to be used. While stainless steel
provides the greatest resistance to corrosion and is actually required for
certain applications like the construction of permanent wood foundations,
appropriate galvanized products provide adequate corrosion resistance for
most uses of treated lumber and are much more economical.

Builders and consumers should always consult with their lumber dealers and
retailers and follow all recommendations by the manufacturers of the treated
lumber, fasteners and connectors they will be using.

If the lake never rises or falls more that a few feet, you may be able
to build a solid dock to suit your purposes. But if it is a lake that
has dramatic level changes, a floating dock is the only way to go!
Building a solid dock is a real chore, if you want it to last! If you
have never installed pilings before, I strongly suggest the floating
dock grin. Even the floatin docks require "anchors", so if you have
never done this before, you may want to consult someone in your area
that has experience with dock building. I have built a few, and it is
not like putting a deck on the back of your house .
JK

If the lake never rises or falls more that a few feet, you may be able
to build a solid dock to suit your purposes. But if it is a lake that
has dramatic level changes, a floating dock is the only way to go!
Building a solid dock is a real chore, if you want it to last! If you
have never installed pilings before, I strongly suggest the floating
dock grin. Even the floatin docks require "anchors", so if you have
never done this before, you may want to consult someone in your area
that has experience with dock building. I have built a few, and it is
not like putting a deck on the back of your house .
JK

You might want to consider a prebuilt dock. They are very popular in
my area. They have wheels that allow you to roll them in and out
every year and then the wheels lift up so the dock sits on the pole
structure. The reason people do this is that the ice on our lakes
pushes against the docks every year and eventually moves the supports
enough that you either have to try to straighten them out or rebuild
them. Rolling the dock in and out avoids all the ice problems.

You might want to consider a prebuilt dock. They are very popular in
my area. They have wheels that allow you to roll them in and out
every year and then the wheels lift up so the dock sits on the pole
structure. The reason people do this is that the ice on our lakes
pushes against the docks every year and eventually moves the supports
enough that you either have to try to straighten them out or rebuild
them. Rolling the dock in and out avoids all the ice problems.