caddis

Peter Charles wrote in
:

Also messing around with CDC to
retain bubbles.



Are you in the GFS this year? My contribution is right in that class. It
makes the fly a tad tough to get down, but I've had some real good luck
with this technique. The Pettijean Magic tool makes it a breeze. Of
course, so does a piece of split foam and a bulldog clip.

Scott

and all spleyed out, so my questin is, how do get it to bend like that?
Aslo, which hooks are the best.


It is quite simple to do really. I use my thumbnail. After you have tied the
hackle in, ( it works with any hackle), grasp the feathers between your
thumb and forefinger, with your thumbnail at the base of the fibres, ( or at
the point from which you wish the fibres to bend), and draw them between
your forefinger, and over your thumbnail. This gives them a pronounced
curve, which will remain that way, even after use. How they curve, and how
much they curve, depends on the pressure you apply with your nail.

If your nails are damaged, then you need some small flat object with a
sharpish edge, ( but not sharp enough to cut) which you use in the same
manner as described for the thumbnail technique.

Many old time Yorkshire dressers used this technique. It gives the flies a
distinct style, and they also fish differently. Most divided the hackle
fibres above and below the hook. This is of course particularly suited to
imitating ascending caddis pupae, but it also works well for other things.
If you check the thread on ROFFT, there are some illustrations of flies at a
URL I gave which use a similar "shrouding" technique, although these look as
if the natural feather curve has been used, and not "assisted", in the
manner described.

There are several such tricks which give flies a very distinctive
appearance, quite unlike most "modern" soft hackles.

My favourite hooks for patterns like these are fine wire straight eyed hooks
"Drennan Carbon Specimen". A search on the net should turn them up. In the
UK they are readily available at various tackle shops ( Coarse fishing
hooks). One may also use some of the straight eyed curved hooks, like this
one;
http://globalflyfisher.com/reviews/g...ge/75cover.jpg
to advantage.

I prefer to use fine wire hooks and weight them as required. Heavy wire
hooks have too many disadvantages. Also, only use one turn of hackle. Most
people put too much hackle on these flies. Sparse is the name of the game.
They should look transparent, and this can only be achieved with light
hackling. If necessary tie in two small bunches of fibre. The curving
technique works just as well on these, and you can use up larger feathers,
at the same time reducing bulk at the tie in point.

Hackle length depends on what you are trying to achieve. For most ascending
pupae, I would normally use fibres about one and a half times the hook
length. I like the hook point and bend to be more or less hidden by the
hackle fibres. The "curve" I use is specifically designed to do this.
Practice on a few soft hackles tied to bare hooks first, and you will see
how much pressure you require for the desired effect. For simple thread
bodies, ( although many pupae are quite fat!) I would use an underbody of
tinsel, and at least a touch of dubbing in the appropriate colour. Silk is
better than synthetic threads, as it turns translucent when wet, or treated
with some floatants.

It may seem paradox to treat these flies with floatant, but they wont work
properly without it. It can be difficult to get them to sink properly, which
is why I usually add some lead to the fly. A couple of turns is enough. One
might also use bead heads for this.

Free swimmers are usually slender, and a thread body will work OK for this.
I rather prefer curved hooks for these as well. This is closer to most of
the naturals in appearance, than a straight body.

TL
MC

"Mike Connor" wrote in
:

It is quite simple to do really. I use my thumbnail. After you have
tied the hackle in, ( it works with any hackle), grasp the feathers
between your thumb and forefinger, with your thumbnail at the base of
the fibres, ( or at the point from which you wish the fibres to bend),
and draw them between your forefinger, and over your thumbnail. This
gives them a pronounced curve, which will remain that way, even after
use. How they curve, and how much they curve, depends on the pressure
you apply with your nail.


Great tip thanks Mike.

Steve