Trailer question

I have a 16ft Bonita with a 150 Merc on it. The trailer is a drive-on with 1
set of bunks and center rollers. Since getting it a few years ago, I have
always had trouble lining the boat up to drive it on. I have been noticing
other trailers similar to mine and noticed a lot of them have a second set
of shorter bunks on the outboard side and that looks like it would solve my
problems a lot. When I add them, should I adjust both sets of bunks so they
do not hit the rollers or just touch them? It seems to me I would be better
off if they didn't come in contact with the rollers so the bunks could
straighten the boat. All opinions appreciated.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va

The only thing that should touch the rollers is the bow of the boat, to
keep i off the cross members when it's coming up between the bunks. The
outboard bunkers do nothing to make driving on any easier. It's the center
bunks that straighten the boat out. on most hulls, they closer to the keel
they are, the better job they do, because they pick up the steepest part of
the V. If you don't have enough V to align the boat, then you'll need
outside guides to bounce the stern to the center. But the biggest mistake I
see people make who can't get on a drive-on trailer straight, is to put the
trailer too deep in the water. If the stern is still floating when you're
an foot or two from the winch stand, then you've got the trailer to deep.
The bunkers can't straighten the boat out if they aren't in play.

RichZ©
www.richz.com/fishing

I have 12' side boards. Really love them. As I retrieve in both wind and
rivers.
Bill

"RichZ" wrote in message
...
The only thing that should touch the rollers is the bow of the boat, to
keep i off the cross members when it's coming up between the bunks. The
outboard bunkers do nothing to make driving on any easier. It's the center
bunks that straighten the boat out. on most hulls, they closer to the keel
they are, the better job they do, because they pick up the steepest part
of
the V. If you don't have enough V to align the boat, then you'll need
outside guides to bounce the stern to the center. But the biggest mistake
I
see people make who can't get on a drive-on trailer straight, is to put
the
trailer too deep in the water. If the stern is still floating when you're
an foot or two from the winch stand, then you've got the trailer to deep.
The bunkers can't straighten the boat out if they aren't in play.

RichZ©
www.richz.com/fishing

Take a look at my modifications to a Carolina Skiff 16 foot trailer. I
removed wooden/carpet portion of the side "guide-ons" and replaced them with
angled "slide-ons" that I made myself from PVC and rope. I moved the
taillights up to the top of the "slide-ons" while I was at it. They can be
seen at
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffO...hoto&PhotoID=5

RichG

"RG" wrote in message
...
Take a look at my modifications to a Carolina Skiff 16 foot trailer. I
removed wooden/carpet portion of the side "guide-ons" and replaced them
with
angled "slide-ons" that I made myself from PVC and rope. I moved the
taillights up to the top of the "slide-ons" while I was at it. They can be
seen at

http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffO...ShowPhoto&Phot
oID=5

RichG



The guides are OK, but I really like the location of your anchor light.


--
Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com
All about fishing in Yuma, Arizona
Promote Your Fishing Website FOR FREE

Yea, the prior owner added the anchor light there. If one were to do that on
their own, however, one has to be certain that they leave a very long
electrical lead. That's to allow the easy removal of the engine cowling,
especially if you have trouble at sea. Another method is to put quick
disconnects in the electrical line, but inside of the cowling. As you know,
every dis-connect is yet another spot for corrosion and trouble. Ah
trade-offs trade-offs. RichG