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Boat wiring info



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 28th, 2004, 10:34 PM
Henry Hefner
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Default Boat wiring info

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry
  #2  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:03 PM
AJH
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Default Boat wiring info

I would go with separate fuses for each item..you want to protect the
"items", one big fuse won't do it..




  #3  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:15 PM
Charles B. Summers
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Default Boat wiring info

Think if it the same as wiring a house. Bring your power to one location and
then branch off to each device. But yes... you do need fuses on everything.
Look up the model numbers of the equiptment and see if you can find a
manual. It will have the fuse sizes listed in there.

The trolling motor on my boat is run directly to the battery (well, through
a plug in too), then fused at the battery with a link. Then again, it's only
a 12v motor. When I upgrade to a 24v motor... I'm going to have to get a 24v
fuse at figure out the amperage I need.

--
Charles B. Summers
Secret Weapon Lures
http://www.secretweaponlures.com


"Henry Hefner" wrote in message
...
Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry



  #4  
Old March 28th, 2004, 11:21 PM
Henry Hefner
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Default Boat wiring info

Thanks guys, off to the store!
  #5  
Old March 29th, 2004, 12:32 AM
Doc \(The Tin Boat King\)
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Default Boat wiring info

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================== ===============

"Henry Hefner" wrote in message ...
Thanks guys, off to the store!


  #6  
Old March 30th, 2004, 02:11 AM
Jim Laumann
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Default Boat wiring info

Doc

Thats a great idea.

I would suggest the blade type fuses instead of the round cartridge
type - much easier to insert and remove - based
on the ones I've put in my car. Also easier to read the amp's when you
blow one.

Jim


On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 18:32:46 -0500, "Doc \(The Tin Boat King\)"
wrote:

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================= ================

"Henry Hefner" wrote in message ...
Thanks guys, off to the store!


  #7  
Old March 30th, 2004, 05:45 AM
Henry Hefner
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Default Boat wiring info

Doc (The Tin Boat King) wrote:
Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc


That is a good idea, now if I can find time to hit a junkyard. I may
find a marine outlet first. A friend told me thay they sell fuse blocks
like I need for a reasonable price.
  #8  
Old April 2nd, 2004, 04:00 AM
Henry Hefner
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Default Boat wiring info

Doc (The Tin Boat King) wrote:

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================== ===============


Went to a junk yard, all the fuse blocks were huge and tough to adapt
like I need it. Two marine dealers, glass fuse blocks only. Napa auto
parts, found a blade-type fuse block with space for 6 fuses for $15.
ka-ching!
  #9  
Old April 2nd, 2004, 06:02 AM
RichZ
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Default Boat wiring info

Henry wrote:
found a blade-type fuse block with space for 6 fuses for $15.

Be sure to get some dielectric grease to put on the fuse bladesbefore you
insert them. In a marine environment, those things tend to corode you can
develop problems that are exceedingly difficult to troubleshoot. A swab or
two of dielectric lube before inserting the fuse can make all the
difference in the world.

RichZ©
www.richz.com/fishing

  #10  
Old March 29th, 2004, 01:06 AM
jack schmitt
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Default Boat wiring info

Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped


I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.
 




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