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#1
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![]() I tie a sunken spinner pattern using floss for the wings. I used a type of dental floss called glide. It is very easy to tie with and allows the fly to sink like a stone. -- theartoflee He who asks is a fool for five minutes, but he who does not ask remains a fool forever. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ theartoflee's Profile: http://www.njflyfishing.com/vBulleti...php?userid=876 View this thread: http://www.njflyfishing.com/vBulleti...ad.php?t=13627 ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#2
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Howdy,
I was finishing up my flies for the GFS, and got to playing around tinting some dental floss to wrap as a mayfly body. I remembered reading about it somewhere in the distant past (here?), but couldn't recall the particulars. (I'm pretty sure Mike C. mentioned it somewhere in one of his discussions of tying tricks.) It makes a nice segmented body, but I haven't had a chance to test any flies made with it. I tinted it using waterproof markers, but might want to play around with coffee or tea for darker colors. I used waxed because that's what I had. So has anyone here played around with it? Did you use waxed or unwaxed and why? What did you use to color it? (Arabica? Cold drip? Decaf?) :-) Chuck Vance |
#3
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On Jan 15, 7:24 pm, Conan The Librarian wrote:
Howdy, I was finishing up my flies for the GFS, and got to playing around tinting some dental floss to wrap as a mayfly body. I remembered reading about it somewhere in the distant past (here?), but couldn't recall the particulars. (I'm pretty sure Mike C. mentioned it somewhere in one of his discussions of tying tricks.) It makes a nice segmented body, but I haven't had a chance to test any flies made with it. I tinted it using waterproof markers, but might want to play around with coffee or tea for darker colors. I used waxed because that's what I had. So has anyone here played around with it? Did you use waxed or unwaxed and why? What did you use to color it? (Arabica? Cold drip? Decaf?) :-) Chuck Vance If you want to use this to colour with markers etc, then use unwaxed, as it will not take the colour properly otherwise. The same applies to dyeing it. I have used it a lot in the past for forming under-bodies on some flies, but I donīt use it much any more now. How you manipulate it is important. Keep it flat for "forming" shapes, and twist it tight for segmentation etc. TL MC |
#4
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As it may also be of interest, here is some info on dyeing with coffee
and tea; http://www.twincubs.com/tutorial2.html You can also use white spirit vinegar to help fix the dye and make it more permanent. TL MC |
#5
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On Jan 15, 3:58 pm, Mike wrote:
As it may also be of interest, here is some info on dyeing with coffee and tea; http://www.twincubs.com/tutorial2.html You can also use white spirit vinegar to help fix the dye and make it more permanent. TL MC I have never used dental floss (for fly tying), so dyeing it is beyond my ken, but I have used Kool-Ade as a dye for many things over the years. Who knows.......trout might like the smell of cherry KA on a nymph. cheers oz |
#6
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On Jan 16, 2:33 am, MajorOz wrote:
On Jan 15, 3:58 pm, Mike wrote: As it may also be of interest, here is some info on dyeing with coffee and tea; http://www.twincubs.com/tutorial2.html You can also use white spirit vinegar to help fix the dye and make it more permanent. TL MC I have never used dental floss (for fly tying), so dyeing it is beyond my ken, but I have used Kool-Ade as a dye for many things over the years. Who knows.......trout might like the smell of cherry KA on a nymph. cheers oz Possibly, but then again, they may prefer the taste of French roasted Sumatran espresso? Of course, you would have to dye the flies fresh on stream. TL MC |
#7
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![]() Using such might also be grounds for a citation! ![]() TL MC |
#8
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Might be really good for educated and selective trout though?
TL MC |
#9
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![]() Mike wrote: If you want to use this to colour with markers etc, then use unwaxed, as it will not take the colour properly otherwise. The same applies to dyeing it. I have used it a lot in the past for forming under-bodies on some flies, but I don't use it much any more now. I liked the color effect I got using waxed, as some of the ink rubbed off right away, but it retained enough to give a nice muted color. But I'll try it with unwaxed to see how it looks. Does waxed versus unwaxed have any effect on flotation? In general, does it tend to float when used for mayfly bodies? How you manipulate it is important. Keep it flat for "forming" shapes, and twist it tight for segmentation etc. Yeah, I was playing around with different effects. I was thinking it would be a cheap alternative to some other body materials used to give segmenation such as biots. Chuck Vance (OK, so it's not about money as much as I just like playing around with different ways of tying) |
#10
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On Jan 16, 2:23 pm, wrote:
Mike wrote: If you want to use this to colour with markers etc, then use unwaxed, as it will not take the colour properly otherwise. The same applies to dyeing it. I have used it a lot in the past for forming under-bodies on some flies, but I don't use it much any more now. I liked the color effect I got using waxed, as some of the ink rubbed off right away, but it retained enough to give a nice muted color. But I'll try it with unwaxed to see how it looks. Does waxed versus unwaxed have any effect on flotation? In general, does it tend to float when used for mayfly bodies? How you manipulate it is important. Keep it flat for "forming" shapes, and twist it tight for segmentation etc. Yeah, I was playing around with different effects. I was thinking it would be a cheap alternative to some other body materials used to give segmenation such as biots. Chuck Vance (OK, so it's not about money as much as I just like playing around with different ways of tying) If the flies are treated with a decent floatant, and have decent hackles etc,then they float well enough. I canīt say I noticed any difference between waxed and unwaxed in this regard. Latterly I always used unwaxed anyway. I have not tested it, but I would expect the waxed stuff to float better initially at least, as it is simply more waterproof. The main problem with colouring the waxed stuff is that quite a few floatants just dissolve the colour off it. If you use liquid "dip" type floatants, this can cause other problems as well, When you dip other flies in it, they get coloured by it! The colour does not actually soak in to the waxed stuff, as you have noticed, it just colours the wax on the surface. TL MC |
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