Casting reel problem

I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My problem
is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line bunched
up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I properly
cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so fed up with
this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay with my open
face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3953 (20090321) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 15:29:48 -0500, "Dave" backed
into a tree whilst ridin inna park then wrote:

I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My problem
is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line bunched
up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I properly
cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so fed up with
this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay with my open
face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

First question is which reel is it? Did you get it new? If you got
it new did you read the instructions on how to set it up? It can be
very frustrating to a first time user. There are adjustments that
can be made to most reels and Shimano's are good reels. Start with
tightening up the spool so the line barely unwinds when you hold the
rod level with a lure on the line. Then set the brake, if it has one,
to the highest setting. It won't cast very far, but that's ok for
now. Get used to using your thumb to control the spool speed as you
cast. As you become used to that you can slowly readjust the spool
and brake until you are getting farther casts with no backlash.
Ask your wife for a small darning hook to get backlashes out with.
They work pretty good. Most of all it just tales practice.

I prolly didn't explain it very well so check out the link below.

Google is your friend. Here is a link to Google results.
http://ncane.com/42k
---

Dan TOASTY in Florida for now

Remove the X for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com www.SecretWeaponLures.com
A proud charter member of "PETAF", People for Eating Tasty Animals and Fish!!!

Thanks for your help and the website Dan.


"What me worry?" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 15:29:48 -0500, "Dave" backed
into a tree whilst ridin inna park then wrote:

I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem
is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line
bunched
up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I properly
cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so fed up
with
this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay with my
open
face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

First question is which reel is it? Did you get it new? If you got
it new did you read the instructions on how to set it up? It can be
very frustrating to a first time user. There are adjustments that
can be made to most reels and Shimano's are good reels. Start with
tightening up the spool so the line barely unwinds when you hold the
rod level with a lure on the line. Then set the brake, if it has one,
to the highest setting. It won't cast very far, but that's ok for
now. Get used to using your thumb to control the spool speed as you
cast. As you become used to that you can slowly readjust the spool
and brake until you are getting farther casts with no backlash.
Ask your wife for a small darning hook to get backlashes out with.
They work pretty good. Most of all it just tales practice.

I prolly didn't explain it very well so check out the link below.

Google is your friend. Here is a link to Google results.
http://ncane.com/42k
---

Dan TOASTY in Florida for now

Remove the X for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com www.SecretWeaponLures.com
A proud charter member of "PETAF", People for Eating Tasty Animals and
Fish!!!

__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 3953 (20090321) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com





__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 3953 (20090321) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

There are very knowledgeable and helpful people here. I just don't want you
to become intimidated. Don't lose sight of the fact that a baitcaster is a
gadget with just a few controls and using one is not rocket science. Just
learn those controls and start out easy and you'll do fine.

"Dave" wrote in message
...
Thanks for your help and the website Dan.


"What me worry?" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 15:29:48 -0500, "Dave" backed
into a tree whilst ridin inna park then wrote:

I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem
is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line
bunched
up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I properly
cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so fed up
with
this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay with my
open
face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

First question is which reel is it? Did you get it new? If you got
it new did you read the instructions on how to set it up? It can be
very frustrating to a first time user. There are adjustments that
can be made to most reels and Shimano's are good reels. Start with
tightening up the spool so the line barely unwinds when you hold the
rod level with a lure on the line. Then set the brake, if it has one,
to the highest setting. It won't cast very far, but that's ok for
now. Get used to using your thumb to control the spool speed as you
cast. As you become used to that you can slowly readjust the spool
and brake until you are getting farther casts with no backlash.
Ask your wife for a small darning hook to get backlashes out with.
They work pretty good. Most of all it just tales practice.

I prolly didn't explain it very well so check out the link below.

Google is your friend. Here is a link to Google results.
http://ncane.com/42k
---

Dan TOASTY in Florida for now

Remove the X for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com www.SecretWeaponLures.com
A proud charter member of "PETAF", People for Eating Tasty Animals and
Fish!!!

__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 3953 (20090321) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com





__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 3953 (20090321) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line
bunched up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I
properly cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so
fed up with this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay
with my open face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

You don't say which baitcasting reel you're using, but here's some of my
thoughts when people say they're having problems with baitcasting tackle.

Baitcasting tackle was designed with heavier line and lure combinations in
mind. Casting rods usually have more power and backbone and are better used
in areas where there is more cover and snags likely to be encountered. Much
more pressure can be applied to a fish to muscle it away from snags than
with typical spinning tackle. Light lures are typically much more difficult
to cast on baitcasting equipment too. One thing I see all the time is
people are trying to cast lightweight lures. Start out with nothing lighter
than 1/2 oz. and stay using heavy lures until you can casts consistently for
at least an hour without a backlash.

There is a longer learning curve to casting with baitcasting equipment too
over spinning. It's not something that people usually pick up and
immediately begin pounding out 100 foot casts, but it's not impossible.
Then too, many people make the mistake of spending as little money as
possible on a baitcasting combo because they are not sure if they'll like
it. Bad Idea #1....

Bad Idea #2 is putting cheap line on, again they don't want to spend a lot
on an outfit they're not sure is going to get used. And, based on the
knowledge that they're going to have some backlashes, they buy the cheapest
line available. This is definitely the wrong thing to do.

Bad Idea #3 is IF they practice at all, they start with too light of a
casting plug and try to muscle that lure out there as far as they can. Then
they get frustrated when they get backlashes and before long, park the rod
and reel.

Bad Idea #4 is new users don't understand how to adjust the reel's braking
system.

Bad Idea #5 is because of a combination of the first four, they park that
#$%^@#! rod and reel in the garage and claim "I just can't use one of these
things!"

Let's break these five Bad Ideas down.

#1 - There's a reason rods and reels are priced the way they are. Cheap
reels are built with cheap components, so they're not free-spinning and
smooth. This makes them difficult to cast in the first place. I've had
clients show up with cheap tackle and even I had difficulty casting their
gear, even though I've been using casting tackle for over forty years.

#2 - Cheap line has a lot of memory and is stiff. This makes the line not
flow through the guides well and makes it more difficult to cast. Mono
line, when it gets backlashed gets kinks. Kinked mono line is a weakened
line. My suggestion is to load the spool up with 50 pound PowerPro. Yes,
it's expensive, but it doesn't get weakened with kinks and 50 pound is a
large enough diameter to pick out backlashes.

#3 - There is a technique to using a baitcaster and it takes practice.
Casting lightweight lures with baitcasting tackle is a difficult task and
that comes only with time, experience and practice. Start with at least a
1/2 ounce practice plug and don't even think about casting for distance
initially. I tell clients new to baitcasting that until they can
consistently cast thirty feet without a backlash that they shouldn't even
consider trying for greater distance. That comes with time and practice.

#4 - I don't know what it is, but many of the clients I've had that have
issues with baitcasting tackle have no concept of any braking system for
their reels and no clue that there are different adjustments to be made for
different lure weights! I guess reading the manual is some violation of the
"Man Code." Take the time to read the manual and actually understand HOW
THE REEL WORKS!!!!

#5 - Again, because of the first four B.I.s, they stop far too soon.
Evidently no one wants to look inept, or "I'm a man dammit, I can do this,"
or they're too proud to ask for help/instruction, it's easier to quietly
admit defeat and go back to spinning tackle.

Get out the manual and ACTUALLY READ the darned thing so you know how it
works. If you no longer have the manual, there's a good chance you can find
one online. Download it, print it out and READ it!!! Once you understand
the principles of the reel's braking system, you're ready for the next step.

Tie on a 1/2 ounce practice plug and head for the back yard. Adjust the
cast control knob on the side of the reel fairly tight. If it has a
magnetic control, adjust that to the middle setting. Holding the rod
horizontal, push the freespool button and take your thumb off the spool.
The lure should slowly fall and if the reel is adjusted properly, when the
lure hits the ground, the spool should make no more than 1/2 turn. If it
makes more turns, pull out the loose line until you're down to tight line,
reel back up, adjust the tension a little tighter and try it again. Do this
until the fall rate is correct for the practice plug's weight.

IF you have the reel adjusted properly, and IF you can cast a pushbutton
spincasting reel, you can use a baitcaster. The same motions are used
between a Zebco 202 and a Calcutta 200, with the addition of one extra step,
clamping your thumb down on the spool just before the lure hits the water or
the practice plug hits the ground.

Don't try to rocket out long casts with a flat trajectory. Concentrate
instead on making easy lobbing casts ten to twenty yards at most. Stop the
practice plug when it's about three feet in the air. Keep doing this until
you're consistently casting without backlashes. As you become more
comfortable, start adding a little more effort into the cast. You will find
that additional distance will come. Once you're at the end of that cast
distance on the reel setting and you're not backlashing, you can back off a
little on the cast control (the little knob by the reel handle) and you'll
find that you'll be backlashing again.

Your thumb needs a little education during all of this. You don't have to
raise your thumb all the way off the spool, simply raise it 1/8th of an inch
off the spool, and you'll feel the "beginning" of a backlash. Then you can
lightly apply pressure and feather the line, eliminating the backlash before
it happens.

Now practice, Practice, PRACTICE!
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

That is an excellent explanation Steve.

"Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers.com" wrote in message
...

"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of
line bunched up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how
do I properly cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am
so fed up with this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and
stay with my open face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

You don't say which baitcasting reel you're using, but here's some of my
thoughts when people say they're having problems with baitcasting tackle.

Baitcasting tackle was designed with heavier line and lure combinations in
mind. Casting rods usually have more power and backbone and are better
used in areas where there is more cover and snags likely to be
encountered. Much more pressure can be applied to a fish to muscle it
away from snags than with typical spinning tackle. Light lures are
typically much more difficult to cast on baitcasting equipment too. One
thing I see all the time is people are trying to cast lightweight lures.
Start out with nothing lighter than 1/2 oz. and stay using heavy lures
until you can casts consistently for at least an hour without a backlash.

There is a longer learning curve to casting with baitcasting equipment too
over spinning. It's not something that people usually pick up and
immediately begin pounding out 100 foot casts, but it's not impossible.
Then too, many people make the mistake of spending as little money as
possible on a baitcasting combo because they are not sure if they'll like
it. Bad Idea #1....

Bad Idea #2 is putting cheap line on, again they don't want to spend a lot
on an outfit they're not sure is going to get used. And, based on the
knowledge that they're going to have some backlashes, they buy the
cheapest line available. This is definitely the wrong thing to do.

Bad Idea #3 is IF they practice at all, they start with too light of a
casting plug and try to muscle that lure out there as far as they can.
Then they get frustrated when they get backlashes and before long, park
the rod and reel.

Bad Idea #4 is new users don't understand how to adjust the reel's braking
system.

Bad Idea #5 is because of a combination of the first four, they park that
#$%^@#! rod and reel in the garage and claim "I just can't use one of
these things!"

Let's break these five Bad Ideas down.

#1 - There's a reason rods and reels are priced the way they are. Cheap
reels are built with cheap components, so they're not free-spinning and
smooth. This makes them difficult to cast in the first place. I've had
clients show up with cheap tackle and even I had difficulty casting their
gear, even though I've been using casting tackle for over forty years.

#2 - Cheap line has a lot of memory and is stiff. This makes the line not
flow through the guides well and makes it more difficult to cast. Mono
line, when it gets backlashed gets kinks. Kinked mono line is a weakened
line. My suggestion is to load the spool up with 50 pound PowerPro. Yes,
it's expensive, but it doesn't get weakened with kinks and 50 pound is a
large enough diameter to pick out backlashes.

#3 - There is a technique to using a baitcaster and it takes practice.
Casting lightweight lures with baitcasting tackle is a difficult task and
that comes only with time, experience and practice. Start with at least a
1/2 ounce practice plug and don't even think about casting for distance
initially. I tell clients new to baitcasting that until they can
consistently cast thirty feet without a backlash that they shouldn't even
consider trying for greater distance. That comes with time and practice.

#4 - I don't know what it is, but many of the clients I've had that have
issues with baitcasting tackle have no concept of any braking system for
their reels and no clue that there are different adjustments to be made
for different lure weights! I guess reading the manual is some violation
of the "Man Code." Take the time to read the manual and actually
understand HOW THE REEL WORKS!!!!

#5 - Again, because of the first four B.I.s, they stop far too soon.
Evidently no one wants to look inept, or "I'm a man dammit, I can do
this," or they're too proud to ask for help/instruction, it's easier to
quietly admit defeat and go back to spinning tackle.

Get out the manual and ACTUALLY READ the darned thing so you know how it
works. If you no longer have the manual, there's a good chance you can
find one online. Download it, print it out and READ it!!! Once you
understand the principles of the reel's braking system, you're ready for
the next step.

Tie on a 1/2 ounce practice plug and head for the back yard. Adjust the
cast control knob on the side of the reel fairly tight. If it has a
magnetic control, adjust that to the middle setting. Holding the rod
horizontal, push the freespool button and take your thumb off the spool.
The lure should slowly fall and if the reel is adjusted properly, when the
lure hits the ground, the spool should make no more than 1/2 turn. If it
makes more turns, pull out the loose line until you're down to tight line,
reel back up, adjust the tension a little tighter and try it again. Do
this until the fall rate is correct for the practice plug's weight.

IF you have the reel adjusted properly, and IF you can cast a pushbutton
spincasting reel, you can use a baitcaster. The same motions are used
between a Zebco 202 and a Calcutta 200, with the addition of one extra
step, clamping your thumb down on the spool just before the lure hits the
water or the practice plug hits the ground.

Don't try to rocket out long casts with a flat trajectory. Concentrate
instead on making easy lobbing casts ten to twenty yards at most. Stop
the practice plug when it's about three feet in the air. Keep doing this
until you're consistently casting without backlashes. As you become more
comfortable, start adding a little more effort into the cast. You will
find that additional distance will come. Once you're at the end of that
cast distance on the reel setting and you're not backlashing, you can back
off a little on the cast control (the little knob by the reel handle) and
you'll find that you'll be backlashing again.

Your thumb needs a little education during all of this. You don't have to
raise your thumb all the way off the spool, simply raise it 1/8th of an
inch off the spool, and you'll feel the "beginning" of a backlash. Then
you can lightly apply pressure and feather the line, eliminating the
backlash before it happens.

Now practice, Practice, PRACTICE!
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

This enforced me trying the bait caster I was given and just put in my truck
to try today but chickened out.
Past tries I had too many professional overcast.

CB

Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers.com wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest
of line bunched up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question
is how do I properly cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this
problem? I am so fed up with this happening that I want to give up
on casting reels and stay with my open face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

You don't say which baitcasting reel you're using, but here's some of
my thoughts when people say they're having problems with baitcasting
tackle.
Baitcasting tackle was designed with heavier line and lure
combinations in mind. Casting rods usually have more power and
backbone and are better used in areas where there is more cover and
snags likely to be encountered. Much more pressure can be applied to
a fish to muscle it away from snags than with typical spinning
tackle. Light lures are typically much more difficult to cast on
baitcasting equipment too. One thing I see all the time is people
are trying to cast lightweight lures. Start out with nothing lighter
than 1/2 oz. and stay using heavy lures until you can casts
consistently for at least an hour without a backlash.
There is a longer learning curve to casting with baitcasting
equipment too over spinning. It's not something that people usually
pick up and immediately begin pounding out 100 foot casts, but it's
not impossible. Then too, many people make the mistake of spending as
little money as possible on a baitcasting combo because they are not
sure if they'll like it. Bad Idea #1....

Bad Idea #2 is putting cheap line on, again they don't want to spend
a lot on an outfit they're not sure is going to get used. And, based
on the knowledge that they're going to have some backlashes, they buy
the cheapest line available. This is definitely the wrong thing to
do.
Bad Idea #3 is IF they practice at all, they start with too light of a
casting plug and try to muscle that lure out there as far as they
can. Then they get frustrated when they get backlashes and before
long, park the rod and reel.

Bad Idea #4 is new users don't understand how to adjust the reel's
braking system.

Bad Idea #5 is because of a combination of the first four, they park
that #$%^@#! rod and reel in the garage and claim "I just can't use
one of these things!"

Let's break these five Bad Ideas down.

#1 - There's a reason rods and reels are priced the way they are. Cheap
reels are built with cheap components, so they're not
free-spinning and smooth. This makes them difficult to cast in the
first place. I've had clients show up with cheap tackle and even I
had difficulty casting their gear, even though I've been using
casting tackle for over forty years.
#2 - Cheap line has a lot of memory and is stiff. This makes the
line not flow through the guides well and makes it more difficult to
cast. Mono line, when it gets backlashed gets kinks. Kinked mono
line is a weakened line. My suggestion is to load the spool up with
50 pound PowerPro. Yes, it's expensive, but it doesn't get weakened
with kinks and 50 pound is a large enough diameter to pick out
backlashes.
#3 - There is a technique to using a baitcaster and it takes practice.
Casting lightweight lures with baitcasting tackle is a difficult task
and that comes only with time, experience and practice. Start with
at least a 1/2 ounce practice plug and don't even think about casting
for distance initially. I tell clients new to baitcasting that until
they can consistently cast thirty feet without a backlash that they
shouldn't even consider trying for greater distance. That comes with
time and practice.
#4 - I don't know what it is, but many of the clients I've had that
have issues with baitcasting tackle have no concept of any braking
system for their reels and no clue that there are different
adjustments to be made for different lure weights! I guess reading
the manual is some violation of the "Man Code." Take the time to
read the manual and actually understand HOW THE REEL WORKS!!!!

#5 - Again, because of the first four B.I.s, they stop far too soon.
Evidently no one wants to look inept, or "I'm a man dammit, I can do
this," or they're too proud to ask for help/instruction, it's easier
to quietly admit defeat and go back to spinning tackle.

Get out the manual and ACTUALLY READ the darned thing so you know how
it works. If you no longer have the manual, there's a good chance
you can find one online. Download it, print it out and READ it!!! Once
you understand the principles of the reel's braking system,
you're ready for the next step.
Tie on a 1/2 ounce practice plug and head for the back yard. Adjust
the cast control knob on the side of the reel fairly tight. If it
has a magnetic control, adjust that to the middle setting. Holding
the rod horizontal, push the freespool button and take your thumb off
the spool. The lure should slowly fall and if the reel is adjusted
properly, when the lure hits the ground, the spool should make no
more than 1/2 turn. If it makes more turns, pull out the loose line
until you're down to tight line, reel back up, adjust the tension a
little tighter and try it again. Do this until the fall rate is
correct for the practice plug's weight.
IF you have the reel adjusted properly, and IF you can cast a
pushbutton spincasting reel, you can use a baitcaster. The same
motions are used between a Zebco 202 and a Calcutta 200, with the
addition of one extra step, clamping your thumb down on the spool
just before the lure hits the water or the practice plug hits the
ground.
Don't try to rocket out long casts with a flat trajectory. Concentrate
instead on making easy lobbing casts ten to twenty yards
at most. Stop the practice plug when it's about three feet in the
air. Keep doing this until you're consistently casting without
backlashes. As you become more comfortable, start adding a little
more effort into the cast. You will find that additional distance
will come. Once you're at the end of that cast distance on the reel
setting and you're not backlashing, you can back off a little on the
cast control (the little knob by the reel handle) and you'll find
that you'll be backlashing again.
Your thumb needs a little education during all of this. You don't
have to raise your thumb all the way off the spool, simply raise it
1/8th of an inch off the spool, and you'll feel the "beginning" of a
backlash. Then you can lightly apply pressure and feather the line,
eliminating the backlash before it happens.

Now practice, Practice, PRACTICE!

I don't know what I could add to Steve's treatise, he's forgotten more about
fishing and equipment than I'll ever know. I use spinning only now but I
used to use a baitcaster for 1/4 oz. spinnerbaits. I gave it up for no other
reason than it lacked the versatility that I wanted. Believe me, my spinning
tangles are far worse than any backlash I ever had.

The point I wanted to make, though, is to not let it get into your head.
Learn to use your thumb and how to adjust two controls and follow Steve's
advice. BAITCASTING IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!!

"Cheeky *******" wrote in message
...
This enforced me trying the bait caster I was given and just put in my
truck to try today but chickened out.
Past tries I had too many professional overcast.

CB

Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers.com wrote:
"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest
of line bunched up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question
is how do I properly cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this
problem? I am so fed up with this happening that I want to give up
on casting reels and stay with my open face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

You don't say which baitcasting reel you're using, but here's some of
my thoughts when people say they're having problems with baitcasting
tackle.
Baitcasting tackle was designed with heavier line and lure
combinations in mind. Casting rods usually have more power and
backbone and are better used in areas where there is more cover and
snags likely to be encountered. Much more pressure can be applied to
a fish to muscle it away from snags than with typical spinning
tackle. Light lures are typically much more difficult to cast on
baitcasting equipment too. One thing I see all the time is people
are trying to cast lightweight lures. Start out with nothing lighter
than 1/2 oz. and stay using heavy lures until you can casts
consistently for at least an hour without a backlash.
There is a longer learning curve to casting with baitcasting
equipment too over spinning. It's not something that people usually
pick up and immediately begin pounding out 100 foot casts, but it's
not impossible. Then too, many people make the mistake of spending as
little money as possible on a baitcasting combo because they are not
sure if they'll like it. Bad Idea #1....

Bad Idea #2 is putting cheap line on, again they don't want to spend
a lot on an outfit they're not sure is going to get used. And, based
on the knowledge that they're going to have some backlashes, they buy
the cheapest line available. This is definitely the wrong thing to
do.
Bad Idea #3 is IF they practice at all, they start with too light of a
casting plug and try to muscle that lure out there as far as they
can. Then they get frustrated when they get backlashes and before
long, park the rod and reel.

Bad Idea #4 is new users don't understand how to adjust the reel's
braking system.

Bad Idea #5 is because of a combination of the first four, they park
that #$%^@#! rod and reel in the garage and claim "I just can't use
one of these things!"

Let's break these five Bad Ideas down.

#1 - There's a reason rods and reels are priced the way they are. Cheap
reels are built with cheap components, so they're not
free-spinning and smooth. This makes them difficult to cast in the
first place. I've had clients show up with cheap tackle and even I
had difficulty casting their gear, even though I've been using
casting tackle for over forty years.
#2 - Cheap line has a lot of memory and is stiff. This makes the
line not flow through the guides well and makes it more difficult to
cast. Mono line, when it gets backlashed gets kinks. Kinked mono
line is a weakened line. My suggestion is to load the spool up with
50 pound PowerPro. Yes, it's expensive, but it doesn't get weakened
with kinks and 50 pound is a large enough diameter to pick out
backlashes.
#3 - There is a technique to using a baitcaster and it takes practice.
Casting lightweight lures with baitcasting tackle is a difficult task
and that comes only with time, experience and practice. Start with
at least a 1/2 ounce practice plug and don't even think about casting
for distance initially. I tell clients new to baitcasting that until
they can consistently cast thirty feet without a backlash that they
shouldn't even consider trying for greater distance. That comes with
time and practice.
#4 - I don't know what it is, but many of the clients I've had that
have issues with baitcasting tackle have no concept of any braking
system for their reels and no clue that there are different
adjustments to be made for different lure weights! I guess reading
the manual is some violation of the "Man Code." Take the time to
read the manual and actually understand HOW THE REEL WORKS!!!!

#5 - Again, because of the first four B.I.s, they stop far too soon.
Evidently no one wants to look inept, or "I'm a man dammit, I can do
this," or they're too proud to ask for help/instruction, it's easier
to quietly admit defeat and go back to spinning tackle.

Get out the manual and ACTUALLY READ the darned thing so you know how
it works. If you no longer have the manual, there's a good chance
you can find one online. Download it, print it out and READ it!!! Once
you understand the principles of the reel's braking system,
you're ready for the next step.
Tie on a 1/2 ounce practice plug and head for the back yard. Adjust
the cast control knob on the side of the reel fairly tight. If it
has a magnetic control, adjust that to the middle setting. Holding
the rod horizontal, push the freespool button and take your thumb off
the spool. The lure should slowly fall and if the reel is adjusted
properly, when the lure hits the ground, the spool should make no
more than 1/2 turn. If it makes more turns, pull out the loose line
until you're down to tight line, reel back up, adjust the tension a
little tighter and try it again. Do this until the fall rate is
correct for the practice plug's weight.
IF you have the reel adjusted properly, and IF you can cast a
pushbutton spincasting reel, you can use a baitcaster. The same
motions are used between a Zebco 202 and a Calcutta 200, with the
addition of one extra step, clamping your thumb down on the spool
just before the lure hits the water or the practice plug hits the
ground.
Don't try to rocket out long casts with a flat trajectory. Concentrate
instead on making easy lobbing casts ten to twenty yards
at most. Stop the practice plug when it's about three feet in the
air. Keep doing this until you're consistently casting without
backlashes. As you become more comfortable, start adding a little
more effort into the cast. You will find that additional distance
will come. Once you're at the end of that cast distance on the reel
setting and you're not backlashing, you can back off a little on the
cast control (the little knob by the reel handle) and you'll find
that you'll be backlashing again.
Your thumb needs a little education during all of this. You don't
have to raise your thumb all the way off the spool, simply raise it
1/8th of an inch off the spool, and you'll feel the "beginning" of a
backlash. Then you can lightly apply pressure and feather the line,
eliminating the backlash before it happens.

Now practice, Practice, PRACTICE!

"Marty" wrote in message
...
I don't know what I could add to Steve's treatise, he's forgotten more
about fishing and equipment than I'll ever know. I use spinning only now
but I used to use a baitcaster for 1/4 oz. spinnerbaits. I gave it up for
no other reason than it lacked the versatility that I wanted. Believe me,
my spinning tangles are far worse than any backlash I ever had.

The point I wanted to make, though, is to not let it get into your head.
Learn to use your thumb and how to adjust two controls and follow Steve's
advice. BAITCASTING IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!!

"Cheeky *******" wrote in message
...
This enforced me trying the bait caster I was given and just put in my
truck to try today but chickened out.
Past tries I had too many professional overcast.


Here is a bit I wrote a while back on using a bait caster. Its far from
definitive, but there may be something in it you can use.

http://www.yumabassman.com/#baitcasting

I agree with Dan and would only add this: Do not try to force a long cast or
swing the rod with all your might. As he said, practice with the brakes on
full. If you find yourself wanting to "make it go farther" then back off on
the brakes a little and possibly readjust the clutch.

Also, even after much experience you will still find yourself dealing with
possible overruns- especially if you change the size and weight of your
lure. But, at some point you should be able to feel whether the problem lies
with the brakes or the clutch.
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Property Systems Real Estate
Foreclosure Specialist; General Sales and Listings
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"Dave" wrote in message
...
I have a Shimono bass casting reel. I am new to casting for bass. My
problem is that every time I cast with this reel I get a birds nest of line
bunched up on my reel. This is very frustrating. My question is how do I
properly cast this rod & reel so that I don't have this problem? I am so
fed up with this happening that I want to give up on casting reels and stay
with my open face reel.
Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.

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