Better Expression

Several years ago I was trying to figure out how to use a heavy weight to
"punch" throw very heavy matted vegetation, but without a massive scary
sound spooking the bass in shallow water. I failed to express that very
well and kinda got grilled by a couple of the then regulars on the group.

This last weekend I managed to pick up a second place in a local club
tournament doing exactly that. I used a 1.5 ounces tungsten weight in front
of a creature bait and managed to boat 8 keepers in heavy cover. It was a
touchy presentation because it was all shallow water. If I brought the boat
too close the bass would spook. If I made to much noise on the entry the
bass would spook. I was able to use a 7'11" extra extra heavy flipping
stick to control the weight, then I used the line control method for
flipping and feathered the loose loop of line through my hand to let the
weight pull out smoothly and sail out smoothly. I started with a higher
than normal pitch and used the line control to lower the bait with pressure
as it approached the target making for a very slow speed entry into the
water. In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the
normal amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid the braid
on the water next to the boat.

Lure control pitching worked, but it seemed to either take too much force to
get the bait to sail at the right height causing it to splash a bit much on
entry, or it would slap the water on the way if if less speed and force were
used.

It took me a while to figure out how to make the presentation work, but I
did it. I hope somebody else will benefit from it.

So anyway Warren. When I finally figured it out on my own it worked.

Bob La Londe wrote:
In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the
normal amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid the braid
on the water next to the boat.

You can increase the amount of "working" line you're flipping with
(either for increased distance, or a deeper sink following the lure
entry) by pulling line from up past the 1st or 2nd guide instead of from
between the reel and the 1st guide.

"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the normal
amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid the braid on
the water next to the boat.

You can increase the amount of "working" line you're flipping with (either
for increased distance, or a deeper sink following the lure entry) by
pulling line from up past the 1st or 2nd guide instead of from between the
reel and the 1st guide.

I used to use that method, and it works in some cases, but it also has some
limitations.

Bob La Londe wrote:


"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the
normal amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid
the braid on the water next to the boat.

You can increase the amount of "working" line you're flipping with
(either for increased distance, or a deeper sink following the lure
entry) by pulling line from up past the 1st or 2nd guide instead of
from between the reel and the 1st guide.

I used to use that method, and it works in some cases, but it also has
some limitations.

Everything has limitations, Bob.

"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:


"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the normal
amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid the braid
on the water next to the boat.

You can increase the amount of "working" line you're flipping with
(either for increased distance, or a deeper sink following the lure
entry) by pulling line from up past the 1st or 2nd guide instead of from
between the reel and the 1st guide.

I used to use that method, and it works in some cases, but it also has
some limitations.

Everything has limitations, Bob.

Yeah, I know. The drawback to the 2nd guide method is that you can't
feather the line all the way if going for max distance. A second one for me
is that if I get an unexpected savage bit when I still have some line in my
hand I may rip a guide off the rod setting the hook. (I've done it twice).
Pretty funny later, but mighty irritating at the time.

Bite Me wrote:
"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:

"RichZ" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
In order to get the distance I pulled back double and triple the normal
amount of line used for line control flipping and just laid the braid
on the water next to the boat.
You can increase the amount of "working" line you're flipping with
(either for increased distance, or a deeper sink following the lure
entry) by pulling line from up past the 1st or 2nd guide instead of from
between the reel and the 1st guide.
I used to use that method, and it works in some cases, but it also has
some limitations.
Everything has limitations, Bob.

Yeah, I know. The drawback to the 2nd guide method is that you can't
feather the line all the way if going for max distance. A second one for me
is that if I get an unexpected savage bit when I still have some line in my
hand I may rip a guide off the rod setting the hook. (I've done it twice).
Pretty funny later, but mighty irritating at the time.



I NEVER set the hook with the line still in my hand while flipping any
more. I almost never flip that I'm not using braid or fireline, and I
darned near cut a finger off with an overeager hookset years back, and
haven't done it again.

And to tell you the truth, if I was looking for more than about 3 feet
of extra distance, I'd be pitchin instead of flipping. I've got an old
Daiwa reel on one of my flipping sticks that still has a flipping
switch. I never use it when I'm actually flipping, but I do use it
extensively for pitching in long-flipping situations. I get bit on the
sink with that, it's just lift my thumb and swing.

Like I said -- everything has limitations. Up to use to adopt and adapt
to overcome the limitations that most affect each situation.