Boat wiring info

Andrew Kidd wrote:

"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped

I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.

Why is this Jack? Is it a matter of convenience, or is there another
electrical reason for proximity to the battery?

Just curious...since I know nothing about wiring either.
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home

You want the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. If
they are some distance away and you had a short in a wire between the
breaker and a battery, they would give no protection and a fire could
result.

On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 18:06:18 -0600, jack schmitt
wrote:

I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.

FWIW, I just checked my 17 ft. Monark's wiring. It has fuses close to
or on each item, AND large fuses on the major lines at the batteries.

I thought that I had the only Monark left on this earth . I've got the
McFast SF17 with a Suzuki 115hp, which do you have?

"Guy A." wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 18:06:18 -0600, jack schmitt
wrote:

I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.

FWIW, I just checked my 17 ft. Monark's wiring. It has fuses close to
or on each item, AND large fuses on the major lines at the batteries.

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 10:12:59 -0500, "Jerry Barton"
wrote:

I thought that I had the only Monark left on this earth . I've got the
McFast SF17 with a Suzuki 115hp, which do you have?

Mine is a 1996 Pro 170 (riveted aluminum) with 1997 Mercury/Force
50hp. According to their web site, they now use all-welded hull
construction....

Thanks Jack...
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home


"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Andrew Kidd wrote:

"jack schmitt" wrote in message
...
Henry Hefner wrote:

Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom
flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to
check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuse.
snipped

I agree with everything that has been said. I would advise you to put
the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. Preferably
right at the battery.

Why is this Jack? Is it a matter of convenience, or is there another
electrical reason for proximity to the battery?

Just curious...since I know nothing about wiring either.
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home

You want the fuses or breakers as close to the battery as possible. If
they are some distance away and you had a short in a wire between the
breaker and a battery, they would give no protection and a fire could
result.

Doc

Thats a great idea.

I would suggest the blade type fuses instead of the round cartridge
type - much easier to insert and remove - based
on the ones I've put in my car. Also easier to read the amp's when you
blow one.

Jim


On Sun, 28 Mar 2004 18:32:46 -0500, "Doc \(The Tin Boat King\)"
wrote:

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================= ================

"Henry Hefner" wrote in message ...
Thanks guys, off to the store!

Doc (The Tin Boat King) wrote:
Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc

That is a good idea, now if I can find time to hit a junkyard. I may
find a marine outlet first. A friend told me thay they sell fuse blocks
like I need for a reasonable price.

A picture of mine's on my website under "TOY".

"Guy A." wrote in message
...
On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 10:12:59 -0500, "Jerry Barton"
wrote:

I thought that I had the only Monark left on this earth . I've got the
McFast SF17 with a Suzuki 115hp, which do you have?

Mine is a 1996 Pro 170 (riveted aluminum) with 1997 Mercury/Force
50hp. According to their web site, they now use all-welded hull
construction....

I would put one big fuse at the battery such as a 20amp (assuming this is
not a trolling motor hookup). Then I would fuse the individual items
according to their ratings. For instance, my aerator and bilge share a
single 3amp fuse. My lights share a 5 amp fuse. My fish finder has its own
fuse. By the way, I cannot remember if I have the fuse size mixed up
between my lights and pumps. Again, you need to look carefully at what you
are hooking. Fuses are important to protect those items because each one
will have different requirements.

During duck season, I always blow a couple of fuses for my bilge pump. When
it freezes and someone hits the switch, pop goes the fuse.

For my trolling motor, I have a 40amp breaker at the battery. Again, the
size depends upon the expected amount of amps that your device will draw.

Good luck with the wiring.

Jeff


"Henry Hefner" wrote in message
...
Ok, guys, it's the rookie boat owner. I'm replacing the bottom flotation
foam and floor in the old boat I bought, and thinking I need to check
wiring while it's all apart. There are no fuses. I do a lot of work on
electrical wiring from 120v all the way to 480v 3phase, but don't know
much about 12v DC. Is it common to go without fuses? It is set up with 2
batteries. One has the trolling motor wiring going through a bigfoot
switch and directly to the battery. The other battery feeds 3 switches
which feed lights, live well, and bilge pump. I suspect the answer I'll
get is that I need to add fuses or breakers of some sort. Next question:
If I do need to fuse them, do I just need one large fuse per battery, or
seperate fuses for each item. Thanks in advance.

Henry

Doc (The Tin Boat King) wrote:

Stop by the auto junk yard and pick up an old fuse block from a car. Now you can run seperate fuses at different amps to each item
and replacement fuses are available everywhere. Doc
================================================== ===============

Went to a junk yard, all the fuse blocks were huge and tough to adapt
like I need it. Two marine dealers, glass fuse blocks only. Napa auto
parts, found a blade-type fuse block with space for 6 fuses for $15.
ka-ching!