Czech Nymphing

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 14:40:07 GMT, rw
wrote:

That sounds like plain old ordinary nymphing to me.

Yep, except the true Czech nympher uses three flies and no weight. He
gets the three flies down by using a heavily weighted fly in the
middle, while the other two are unweighted. I find that method
cumbersome, at best, and tried to advise the man to use but one nymph.
"Ordinary" nymphing includes casting a good distance and mending your
line, unlike the short (length of your leader) Czech nymphing.

Dave LaCourse wrote:
On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 14:40:07 GMT, rw wrote:

That sounds like plain old ordinary nymphing to me.

Yep, except the true Czech nympher uses three flies and no weight. He
gets the three flies down by using a heavily weighted fly in the
middle, while the other two are unweighted. I find that method
cumbersome, at best, and tried to advise the man to use but one nymph.
"Ordinary" nymphing includes casting a good distance and mending your
line, unlike the short (length of your leader) Czech nymphing.

It most resembles short-line, high-stick nymphing, EXCEPT that you don't
really raise the rod that high (because you don't have that much line
out). It is really only well suited to particular types of water:
smaller, riffly, fairly fast high-gradient streams. For that kind of
water, though, it's a killer technique. You can work through and cover
a lot of water quite quickly. I use it, where appropriate, but with
only two nymphs; three I have trouble keeping untangled, even with the
very short line.

http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/tledit0500a.html

On Sat, 25 Mar 2006 09:05:23 -0800, JR wrote:

It most resembles short-line, high-stick nymphing, EXCEPT that you don't
really raise the rod that high (because you don't have that much line
out). It is really only well suited to particular types of water:
smaller, riffly, fairly fast high-gradient streams. For that kind of
water, though, it's a killer technique. You can work through and cover
a lot of water quite quickly. I use it, where appropriate, but with
only two nymphs; three I have trouble keeping untangled, even with the
very short line.

Exactly. Raising the rod can also help with the depth of the nymphs.
I've fished water using a strike indicator for about 5 feet of water,
but when I move on to shallower water, I simply lift the strike
indicator out of the water and set my depth that way. WFM.

"JR" wrote

It most resembles short-line, high-stick nymphing, EXCEPT that you don't
really raise the rod that high (because you don't have that much line
out). It is really only well suited to particular types of water:
smaller, riffly, fairly fast high-gradient streams. For that kind of
water, though, it's a killer technique.
hmm... sounds like i should give it a try this spring in the smokies.
would a longer rod (8-9') be preferred to our typical 7-7.5 dry fly rigs?

yfitons
wayno

"Wayne Harrison" wrote in message
...

"JR" wrote

It most resembles short-line, high-stick nymphing, EXCEPT that you don't
really raise the rod that high (because you don't have that much line
out). It is really only well suited to particular types of water:
smaller, riffly, fairly fast high-gradient streams. For that kind of
water, though, it's a killer technique.
hmm... sounds like i should give it a try this spring in the smokies.
would a longer rod (8-9') be preferred to our typical 7-7.5 dry fly rigs?

yfitons
wayno
A longer rod will be much better for high sticking but the over hanging
bushes and creek side rododems should be consider.ed.
The real problems is getting in and out of the stream , JR do you aim
rod ahead between brush or reverse rod and lead with butt?
JR and Wayno please send me you mailing adress
By the way Wayno you have to admire Redddick admitting Dulke was defeatedd
better athelitcs.
Will njow try spell check
Just plain joe

Joe McIntosh wrote:
The real problem is getting in and out of the stream , JR do you aim
rod ahead between brush or reverse rod and lead with butt?

ARGHHH! Joe, do you have ESP or something?????

Used to be, sometimes I'd do one, sometimes the other, with mixed success.

BUT.... the other day, I parked at what I thought would be a new and
improved parking spot on a favorite river, then had to walk a new way to
get to the water. A way that turned out to have no good path and a lot
of undergrowth. I turned the rod around and led with the butt..... and
had to pull the rod through a couple of particularly tangly spots.....
and got to the river with the bottom three sections of a 4-piece rod.

Tried to retrace the route..... (hopeless).

Fortunately, I had a cheapo back-up rod in my truck so I did manage to fish.

But my rule *from now on* in that kind of country is going to be to
carry my rod broken down in its rod sack and assemble and rig it only
once I get to the water.

BTW, although Sage will repair a broken RPL tip for free, it charges $71
to replace lost tips. (In my case, a stupidity tax I richly deserve to
have to pay....)

I turned the rod around and led with the butt..... and
had to pull the rod through a couple of particularly tangly spots.....
and got to the river with the bottom three sections of a 4-piece rod.

I had the same experience with a new rod the FIRST time I took it
fishing, John. Over on White Deer Creek.

BTW, although Sage will repair a broken RPL tip for free, it charges $71
to replace lost tips.

Mine was a Cabela's Three Forks that I bought on sale ($39) after
reading a flurry of favorable postings about it in ROFF. When I phoned
Cabelas to buy a replacement tip, the saleslady said "It shouldn't
have come apart like that; we'll send you a new rod."

I said "No, it's only a friction fit; it's my fault. I shouldn't have
carried it that way."

She wouldn't listen. "Put it in the container it came in. On Monday,
a UPS man will come by and pick it up, and we'll send you a new rod."

Hard to hate a company like that! ((:-))

vince

Dave LaCourse wrote in article

Yep, except the true Czech nympher uses three flies and no weight. He
gets the three flies down by using a heavily weighted fly in the
middle, while the other two are unweighted. I find that method
cumbersome, at best, and tried to advise the man to use but one nymph.

Yeah - the 3 nymph method - especially any directions or techniques for
tying. The weighted center fly (as opposed to lead) looks like a good
alternative ... less hardware to snag ... but we're talking a hefty fly
here to substitute for 3 BB's (which is the approximate weight we needed
for the Kern's flow rate) ... I do remember that flies are tied off the
tag ends of the surgeon's knots used to connect the sections of the rig.
The whole rig's kind of time-consuming for me to tie ... it almost seems
like you'd want to make up a couple in advance for when you eventually lose
a whole rig on a bottom snag.

Instead of using the tag ends of a surgeon's knot to set the flies out from
the main leader, I wonder if there is a knot to tie in an auxilliary tag
that can be trimmed to the desired length ... would help if one of the tags
gets too short after changing or losing a fly.
--

-dnc-

On Tue, 28 Mar 2006 12:52:56 -0600, "Fiddleaway"
wrote:

The weighted center fly (as opposed to lead) looks like a good
alternative ... less hardware to snag ... but we're talking a hefty fly
here to substitute for 3 BB's (which is the approximate weight we needed
for the Kern's flow rate)

Let's start with the tag end fly (from the surgeons knot) and call
that fly #1

The second fly, which will be in the middle of the rig, and is the
hefty one used to get the rig down, is tied to the end of that tippet.

The third fly is ties from the bend of the hook of the 2nd fly. Take
a piece of tippet and tie it to the bend of the heavy (2nd) fly. At
the end of that tippet you tie fly #3.

l
l
l\
l \O
l
l
6
l
l
lF
Where l\ is your surgeon knot
O is your first fly
6 is your weighted fly
F is your third fly tied to the bend of 6

Dave

Dave LaCourse wrote


l
l
l\
l \O
l
l
6
l
l
lF
Where l\ is your surgeon knot
O is your first fly
6 is your weighted fly
F is your third fly tied to the bend of 6

Ahhh! The rig I used also had '6' on a tag end (ergo, 2 surgeon's knots)
with the BB's just above the '6' surgeon's knot. With the weight in the
fly, you apparently don't need it to stand off from the leader. Cool.
Reduces complexity.
--

-dnc-
Now I can tie it in 1 hour instead of 2