Whats the best leader for braided lines?

"Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers" wrote in message
...

"Robert L Bass" wrote in message SNIP

Thanks Steve,

That (no leader) seems to be the concensus so far. I'll try it. I have
one St. Croix rod. It's a Premier series, 7 foot, 2 piece. I thought
I'd bring two spinning rods and reels with me. The outfitter has bait
casting gear. Jerry from Highroller Lures (a good guy) suggested when
fishing shallow lagoons I alternate casts to the shore line and the open
area. He says he's caught big PB that way. Seems sensible enough if the
water is shallow. Your thoughts?

I've done some experimenting and found the Uni-Uni knot to offer the
best strength for a connecting knot, but it works best when the leader
line diameter is the same as the PowerPro.

I tried that knot after reading your post and you're right. It's easier
with same sized lines. I'll try working without a leader for a while.
Is the single Uni knot good for tying line to the lure or is there a
better one?

Thanks again for all the help.

Hi Robert,

I'll have to defer to Jerry for the advice on Peacock Bass as my
experience is limited to two days in Miami. I would love to fish in South
America for them as I think they're an amazing fish and they'd be great as
the star of my tv show! It does make sense to throw occasionally to open
water as I've caught many nice muskies throwing to open water as another
angler in the boat was working the shoreline.

As far as knots for tying PowerPro to the lure, I use two depending upon
the size of the lure. I use an Improved Clinch knot with seven wraps of
the tag end around the mainline on large lures. If this knot hasn't
slipped on a 36 pound muskie, I doubt a peacock bass will slip the knot
either. For smaller lures and single hooks, I use a Palomar Knot and it
too hasn't slipped.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com


I personally don't care for the Palomar Knot, but thousands of anglers like
it. I actualyl use a Super Improved Clinch knot usually referred to as a
Trilene Knot and it works great. Just remeber to wet the (saliva works
great) with any knot prior to pulling the knot tight. Also, I'm suprised
nobofy has mentioend that Braid tends to slip on the spool of the reel if
its just tied directly onto the reel spool. I use a small amount of mono
filament backing, but others have mentioned putting a single wrap of duct
tape or frictin tape on the spool. Since I have mono laying around I do it
that way, and then I never have to worry about gunk from the tape making a
mess or getting places I don't want it on my reel.

http://www.yumabassman.com/#braid

Here is a little summary fo braid tips I wrote a while back. Its not etched
in stone, and I am sure Steve could add more with all his experience, but it
should have atleast one or two useful tidbits for you.

One more thing. I need to add to that list of tips. Pound test is pound
test. 10lb braid will break under roughly the same presures as ten pound
mono. In some circumstances it will break easier because it has no give and
no stretch to act as a shock absorber.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message SNIP

I personally don't care for the Palomar Knot, but thousands of anglers
like it. I actualyl use a Super Improved Clinch knot usually referred to
as a Trilene Knot and it works great. Just remeber to wet the (saliva
works great) with any knot prior to pulling the knot tight. Also, I'm
suprised nobofy has mentioend that Braid tends to slip on the spool of the
reel if its just tied directly onto the reel spool. I use a small amount
of mono filament backing, but others have mentioned putting a single wrap
of duct tape or frictin tape on the spool. Since I have mono laying
around I do it that way, and then I never have to worry about gunk from
the tape making a mess or getting places I don't want it on my reel.

***You're absolutely right, braid will slip on the spool. Unlike many, I
prefer not to use mono backing. I'd rather minimize the number of
connections between me and the fish, trusting one knot, but I'd rather not
trust two. I do use a 3/4" piece of electrical tape to secure the line to
the spool and that's eliminated any line slippage on the spool. I've tried
using mono backing in the past and if you cut and retie like you should, it
doesn't take long before you're casting the knot connecting the braid to the
mono. At that point, if a good fish hits on the end of a cast, you have to
worry if the backing line is good, what pound test is it and is the knot any
good? I'd rather not deal with that.

http://www.yumabassman.com/#braid

Here is a little summary fo braid tips I wrote a while back. Its not
etched in stone, and I am sure Steve could add more with all his
experience, but it should have atleast one or two useful tidbits for you.

One more thing. I need to add to that list of tips. Pound test is pound
test. 10lb braid will break under roughly the same presures as ten pound
mono. In some circumstances it will break easier because it has no give
and no stretch to act as a shock absorber.

***I agree with the statement "Pound test is pound test." While braid is
strong for it's diameter, 10 pound will still break. That's why it's
important to have a reel with a good drag, or know how to back reel a
spinning reel or thumb a spool.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

I personally don't care for the Palomar Knot, but thousands of
anglers like it.

I think I know why. I tried it and it's easy to do even if the
boat's rocking. :^)

I actually use a Super Improved Clinch knot usually referred to as
a Trilene Knot and it works great. Just remeber to wet the (saliva
works great) with any knot prior to pulling the knot tight.

I tried the Trilene and, assuming I'm doing it right, it's a snap to
make. It looks as though it's strong.

Also, I'm suprised nobody has mentioned that Braid tends to slip on
the spool of the reel if it's just tied directly onto the reel
spool...

Thanks. I had heard that elsewhere. I have one bait casting reel
with 65 lb braid on it. There's about 10-20 yards of mono that the
store put on it before they added the braid. I tried pulling the
line with the drag locked way down and it doesn't move so I guess
it's alright. There's a similar arrangement on the spinning reel and
it seems OK too.

I use a small amount of mono filament backing, but others have
mentioned putting a single wrap of duct tape or frictin tape on the
spool. Since I have mono laying around I do it that way, and then
I never have to worry about gunk from the tape making a mess or
getting places I don't want it on my reel.

I saw someone mention using tape. I'm also a little leary of getting
adhesive into the works.

http://www.yumabassman.com/#braid

Nice website, Bob. Lots of good info. I sent you an email for
registration.

Here is a little summary of braid tips I wrote a while back. Its
not etched in stone, and I am sure Steve could add more with all
his experience, but it should have at least one or two useful
tidbits for you.

One more thing. I need to add to that list of tips. Pound test is
pound test. 10lb braid will break under roughly the same presures
as ten pound mono. In some circumstances it will break easier
because it has no give and no stretch to act as a shock absorber.

The "shock absorber" is why the salesman who loaded the line said to
use a leader. Sometimes this stuff seems more complicated than the
other "primate" stuff. :^) [private joke]

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================
Bass Home Electronics
941-925-8650
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================

"Robert L Bass" wrote in message

Nice website, Bob. Lots of good info. I sent you an email for
registration.

Thanks. Saw your e-mail, but you still have to register before I can
activate the account.

The "shock absorber" is why the salesman who loaded the line said to use a
leader.

I'm not sure a short length of mono leader would have much positive affect
as a shock absorber. The only reason I could imagine for needing a leader
is for slow fishing presentations in ultra clear water. ie drop shotting
gin clear lakes, fishing minnows in clear ocaen water, etc.

Sometimes this stuff seems more complicated than the other "primate"
stuff. :^) [private joke]

Nah, primates can learn to fish just fine. Heck even some of the early
divergent dead end predators that evolved do ok at it.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Nice website, Bob. Lots of good info. I sent you an email for
registration.

Thanks. Saw your e-mail, but you still have to register before I
can activate the account.

OK, will do.

The "shock absorber" is why the salesman who loaded the line said
to use a leader.

I'm not sure a short length of mono leader would have much positive
affect as a shock absorber. The only reason I could imagine for
needing a leader is for slow fishing presentations in ultra clear
water. ie drop shotting gin clear lakes, fishing minnows in clear
ocaen water, etc.

Gotcha. I'll stick with braid to the lure and let you know how I
fare.

Sometimes this stuff seems more complicated than the other
"primate" stuff. :^) [private joke]

Nah, primates can learn to fish just fine. Heck even some of the
early divergent dead end predators that evolved do ok at it.

Brinks? :^)