mono backing

Hi, how much do you roughly add of mono backing to the reel prior to
braiding?

TIA

Easier to do on a fs reel with spare spools..
Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.
A bot of a pain doing this with multis unless you have a pair..
Tight lines
Keith M

"Fantom" wrote in message
...
Hi, how much do you roughly add of mono backing to the reel prior to
braiding?

TIA

"Gonfishin" wrote in message
...
Easier to do on a fs reel with spare spools..
Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on
the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.
A bot of a pain doing this with multis unless you have a pair..
Tight lines
Keith M

"Fantom" wrote in message
...
Hi, how much do you roughly add of mono backing to the reel prior to
braiding?

TIA


Hi, thanks for reply, when you say correct depth what exactly do you mean?

This is what i have done, and i can change it before i go fishing next week
if its wrong. My first boat trip

1. Mono covering spool (60lb), ive knoted to the next line and then taped it
with electricians tape, ive done this to fill out the spool. roughly
20-30yrds.

2. then added the identical poundage of mono as the braid (30lb), approx
30yrds,

3. added 230 yrds of 30lb braid.

Should i remove the initial 60lb spool filler? Im using a multiplier.

Fantom.
If you had a spare spool life and the answer would be much easier.
You've got 230 yds / 690 feet / 115 fathoms of braid on, which seems ok but
depends on the depth of water you'l be fishing, the strength of the tide and
the type of fishin.youre plannin to do.
Probably 2/3rds of the braid in the water and 1/3rde on the reel will give a
good safety margin and allow for you to do some trimming etc.
Dont forget to use a nylon leader of at least 20ft long and 10/15lbs
stronger than the braid to give some shock protection and to take up any
wear and tear from the bottom / werck / etc.

I wouldnt want to see any backing mono showing through the braid when the
weight is holding holding bottom.
..
When you knot the two materials together double the braid over and treat the
doubled section as if it was a single one.
Good luck and tight lines
Keith M



KeithM
"Fantom" wrote in message
...

"Gonfishin" wrote in message
...
Easier to do on a fs reel with spare spools..
Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on
the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.
A bot of a pain doing this with multis unless you have a pair..
Tight lines
Keith M

"Fantom" wrote in message
...
Hi, how much do you roughly add of mono backing to the reel prior to
braiding?

TIA


Hi, thanks for reply, when you say correct depth what exactly do you mean?

This is what i have done, and i can change it before i go fishing next
week if its wrong. My first boat trip

1. Mono covering spool (60lb), ive knoted to the next line and then taped
it with electricians tape, ive done this to fill out the spool. roughly
20-30yrds.

2. then added the identical poundage of mono as the braid (30lb), approx
30yrds,

3. added 230 yrds of 30lb braid.

Should i remove the initial 60lb spool filler? Im using a multiplier.

In article , Fantom
wrote:

"Gonfishin" wrote in message
...

Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on
the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.

Hi, thanks for reply, when you say correct depth what exactly do you mean?

This is what i have done, and i can change it before i go fishing next week
if its wrong. My first boat trip

1. Mono covering spool (60lb), ive knoted to the next line and then taped it
with electricians tape, ive done this to fill out the spool. roughly
20-30yrds.

2. then added the identical poundage of mono as the braid (30lb), approx
30yrds,

3. added 230 yrds of 30lb braid.

Perhaps it's worth looking the the reasons for doing this then you can work
out how much you need for your particular circumstances.

Braid gives good bite detection and may, if you are using thin superbraids,
reduce the area of line exposed to the tide so reducing the pressure on the
line and therefore the weight of lead needed to keep the tackle down. This
in turn increases the sensitivity of the setup and might be less likely to
scare timid fish.

Superbraids take less space on the spool and can save you going up a size of
reel when tackling large fighting species - not usually a consideration in
run of the mill UK fishing.

Braid puts extra stress on the hookhold and requires the angler to be
careful when playing large fish especially in the later stages as the fish
nears the boat.

Under pressure modern braids cut wet fingers like a knife.

Mono is usually slightly stiffer than braids (in heavier grades) and
marginally less prone to tangle. It's elastic and absorbs shocks well.
Mono is much kinder to fingers - though dry mono running fast can burn
unprotected skin. Mono can be had in clear, nearly invisible form that's
ideal for spinning, trolling and floatfishing. On rare occasions when a
hook hold goes at the surface or the line snaps, mono can whiplash back on
the angler.

So:
Use a mono leader for the last few yards to take out some of the shocks when
playing a lively fish.

Use braid -if- the mark you intend to fish is deep and/or is subject to
strong tides.

Ideally (Ha! rarely achieved.) use only enough braid that when fishing you
have mono under your fingers again permitting you to feel the line for bites
with no risk if a sudden snatch tears line off the spool over your fingers
- this is a rare but possible accident.

There is no point in having any line on the reel that is not connected right
through just in case you hook the monster that drags off the whole lot but
might be turned in the last few yards - this is even rarer btw.

Nylon mono's elasticity is both a bonus and a small hazard. You really do
need that springiness sometimes but if you wind on hundreds of meters under
pressure the combined force of hundreds of turns can burst a reel - so after
a big fight spool it off into the wake and rewind it under light tension.
Otoh that very springiness absorbs and redistributes the pressure from the
outer layers in more normal situations.

In most UK conditions I (your style may vary) would use no more than 100
metres of braid, usually rather less, and fill the rest of the spool with
cheap mono.

BTW: 30lb bs is a little heavy for ordinary fishing. Unless you're after
large conger, common skate or sharks you should get away with 20lb bs or
less. Which means you can use lighter, smaller gear.

Try with a bit of spare line - can you break 30lb BS with the rod? Could
you apply that pressure when fishing?

Cheerio,

--

Whilst thinner braid reduces the amount of weight needed it is also less
resistant to damage than mono of the same b/s.
Important if the ground is snaggy.

Good point about breaking 30lb line with a rod..
In my boat fishiun days from Plymouth and Dartmouth I regularly fished 20lb
mono straight through and got away with an lb or less of lead when others
were using considerably more.
I once hooked a net over a wreck and was lucky enough to get my end tackle
back.
The boat was drifiting reasonably fast, the clutch was screwed down solid, I
had 2 thumbs on the spool, the rod (20lb class) was well bent and I was
being dragged towards the boats rail. when it pulled free.
Not bad for knotted 20lb line - Sylcast if I remember correctly.
Tight lines
Keith M



"Derek Moody" wrote in message
...
In article , Fantom
wrote:

"Gonfishin" wrote in message
...

Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on
the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct
depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.

Hi, thanks for reply, when you say correct depth what exactly do you
mean?

This is what i have done, and i can change it before i go fishing next
week
if its wrong. My first boat trip

1. Mono covering spool (60lb), ive knoted to the next line and then taped
it
with electricians tape, ive done this to fill out the spool. roughly
20-30yrds.

2. then added the identical poundage of mono as the braid (30lb), approx
30yrds,

3. added 230 yrds of 30lb braid.

Perhaps it's worth looking the the reasons for doing this then you can
work
out how much you need for your particular circumstances.

Braid gives good bite detection and may, if you are using thin
superbraids,
reduce the area of line exposed to the tide so reducing the pressure on
the
line and therefore the weight of lead needed to keep the tackle down.
This
in turn increases the sensitivity of the setup and might be less likely to
scare timid fish.

Superbraids take less space on the spool and can save you going up a size
of
reel when tackling large fighting species - not usually a consideration in
run of the mill UK fishing.

Braid puts extra stress on the hookhold and requires the angler to be
careful when playing large fish especially in the later stages as the fish
nears the boat.

Under pressure modern braids cut wet fingers like a knife.

Mono is usually slightly stiffer than braids (in heavier grades) and
marginally less prone to tangle. It's elastic and absorbs shocks well.
Mono is much kinder to fingers - though dry mono running fast can burn
unprotected skin. Mono can be had in clear, nearly invisible form that's
ideal for spinning, trolling and floatfishing. On rare occasions when a
hook hold goes at the surface or the line snaps, mono can whiplash back on
the angler.

So:
Use a mono leader for the last few yards to take out some of the shocks
when
playing a lively fish.

Use braid -if- the mark you intend to fish is deep and/or is subject to
strong tides.

Ideally (Ha! rarely achieved.) use only enough braid that when fishing you
have mono under your fingers again permitting you to feel the line for
bites
with no risk if a sudden snatch tears line off the spool over your fingers
- this is a rare but possible accident.

There is no point in having any line on the reel that is not connected
right
through just in case you hook the monster that drags off the whole lot but
might be turned in the last few yards - this is even rarer btw.

Nylon mono's elasticity is both a bonus and a small hazard. You really do
need that springiness sometimes but if you wind on hundreds of meters
under
pressure the combined force of hundreds of turns can burst a reel - so
after
a big fight spool it off into the wake and rewind it under light tension.
Otoh that very springiness absorbs and redistributes the pressure from the
outer layers in more normal situations.

In most UK conditions I (your style may vary) would use no more than 100
metres of braid, usually rather less, and fill the rest of the spool with
cheap mono.

BTW: 30lb bs is a little heavy for ordinary fishing. Unless you're after
large conger, common skate or sharks you should get away with 20lb bs or
less. Which means you can use lighter, smaller gear.

Try with a bit of spare line - can you break 30lb BS with the rod? Could
you apply that pressure when fishing?

Cheerio,

--

"Derek Moody" wrote in message
...
In article , Fantom
wrote:

"Gonfishin" wrote in message
...

Wind your desired amount of braid onto a spare spool first then wind on
the
backing (not forgetting to join the two of course) to the correct
depth,
then wind the lot back onto another spool.
Backing is then covered by however much braid you selected.

Hi, thanks for reply, when you say correct depth what exactly do you
mean?

This is what i have done, and i can change it before i go fishing next
week
if its wrong. My first boat trip

1. Mono covering spool (60lb), ive knoted to the next line and then taped
it
with electricians tape, ive done this to fill out the spool. roughly
20-30yrds.

2. then added the identical poundage of mono as the braid (30lb), approx
30yrds,

3. added 230 yrds of 30lb braid.

Perhaps it's worth looking the the reasons for doing this then you can
work
out how much you need for your particular circumstances.

Braid gives good bite detection and may, if you are using thin
superbraids,
reduce the area of line exposed to the tide so reducing the pressure on
the
line and therefore the weight of lead needed to keep the tackle down.
This
in turn increases the sensitivity of the setup and might be less likely to
scare timid fish.

Superbraids take less space on the spool and can save you going up a size
of
reel when tackling large fighting species - not usually a consideration in
run of the mill UK fishing.

Braid puts extra stress on the hookhold and requires the angler to be
careful when playing large fish especially in the later stages as the fish
nears the boat.

Under pressure modern braids cut wet fingers like a knife.

Mono is usually slightly stiffer than braids (in heavier grades) and
marginally less prone to tangle. It's elastic and absorbs shocks well.
Mono is much kinder to fingers - though dry mono running fast can burn
unprotected skin. Mono can be had in clear, nearly invisible form that's
ideal for spinning, trolling and floatfishing. On rare occasions when a
hook hold goes at the surface or the line snaps, mono can whiplash back on
the angler.

So:
Use a mono leader for the last few yards to take out some of the shocks
when
playing a lively fish.

Use braid -if- the mark you intend to fish is deep and/or is subject to
strong tides.

Ideally (Ha! rarely achieved.) use only enough braid that when fishing you
have mono under your fingers again permitting you to feel the line for
bites
with no risk if a sudden snatch tears line off the spool over your fingers
- this is a rare but possible accident.

There is no point in having any line on the reel that is not connected
right
through just in case you hook the monster that drags off the whole lot but
might be turned in the last few yards - this is even rarer btw.

Nylon mono's elasticity is both a bonus and a small hazard. You really do
need that springiness sometimes but if you wind on hundreds of meters
under
pressure the combined force of hundreds of turns can burst a reel - so
after
a big fight spool it off into the wake and rewind it under light tension.
Otoh that very springiness absorbs and redistributes the pressure from the
outer layers in more normal situations.

In most UK conditions I (your style may vary) would use no more than 100
metres of braid, usually rather less, and fill the rest of the spool with
cheap mono.

BTW: 30lb bs is a little heavy for ordinary fishing. Unless you're after
large conger, common skate or sharks you should get away with 20lb bs or
less. Which means you can use lighter, smaller gear.

Try with a bit of spare line - can you break 30lb BS with the rod? Could
you apply that pressure when fishing?

Cheerio,

--



Thanks for the replies, i kinda regret getting 30lb braid now, should have
gone for 20lb. I intend to place the braid on my sealine 250 for the just
incase scenario, but it needs servicing so i wont be taking that with me,
also wont use that on my current rod.

I have decided to place 24bs mono/60lb leader line on my mitchell 624 reel,
since its all i had and i dont live close to tackle shop and dont fancy
spooling on boat.

Im using a 15-30lb class rod so i would rather...thinking about it now, and
taking in the advice, brought a lesser breaking strain like 20lb. I have
also spooled a Abu Seven with 15lb mono/50lb leader (would have used 40lb
leader but im all out, (might change that on the day) for lighter fishing if
needs be.

Excellent points and i appreciate them all. Cheers